Like he said above  🙂 

Will do !

The S20 action is kinda T3 rip-off by Sako but that just goes to show how good the venerable T3 is. Hard to make it any better without upping the price .. 🙂
That said i´ve already ordered a S20 Precision in 6.5 CRD , although i´ll toss the OEM barrel and replace it with a 66 cm Krieger LP in 6mm Norma BR. And about them (Tikka) been able to s… Read more

Works very well.The same trigger plate as the Quad eventhough the A1 has a two-stager the triggers are interchangeable. How do i know ? Have one of them DIP shoes on my A1 😉

Idk about US but over here they practically grow on Tree’s 🙂
Every dealer seem to have the 130 GT ammo in stock.

Just finished my 6mm Creedmoor build (A T3X SS action) Krieger HV barrel (28”) in 1/7” twist and it shows great promise with 105 ELD although not even broken in yet 😉
Will test some 105 Scenars and 105 Berger VLD’s in a very near future and work up some great loads while at it.
A nice caliber to shoot. Since it’s one heavy bugger there’s no recoil… Read more

I shoot mine with heavier bullets and Vihtavuori powder (a Super Varmint, 600mm/24” barrel) so can’t say anything about those bullets/powder but for 69 gr Scenar i use 23.2 gr VV135 powder. Very accurate load.
I normally shoot 73 & 75 gr ELD Match, 77gr Scenars and 80gr Berger VLD loaded with VV 140 powder, 24.2-24.3 gr / 22.6 gr respectively. All… Read more

If you REALLY want to find out what your new, shiny T# is capable of then try 77gr Scenars or 80 gr Bergers. Loaded around 24gr/ 22 gr  Vihtavuori 140 respectively.
Taken yours has a 1/8” rifling, of course.

The 6.5 CM is ammo finicky – to say the least. That said any and all T3´s are quaranteed to have n under MOA accuracy for ”premium ammo”. Something´s wrong somewhere and Tikka/Sako ( or at your case Beretta US) needs to take a look at it.

I´m not a wizard regarding metallurgy but i can tell you this much: I prefer SS versions over the Chrome Moly since ,
to my experience, the SS barrels take shorter time to break in, tolerate more shots before they get hot and are easier to clean/ don´t copper as much.There´s a reason ie marquee barrel makers choose SS as their choice for a ma… Read more

A great choice for a Gun. I myself aren`t the greatest Fan of the .308 but it´s a gret caliber – they say 😉
I have an T3 A1 in that caliber but i´m in the process of re-barreling it to a 6mm Creedmoore. The little range time i have with the OEM .308 barrel leaves me (almost) misty-eyed since it shot really well.

Yep 🙂
A business card 😉

A free floating barrel needs to be … Well – free floating as Doggie pointed out. Why people debate over this subject beats me. You won´t get the best accuracy out of a Tikka otherwise. Period!

I´d grind the barrel channel  roomy enough for a business card = you should be able to draw a common business card all the way to the action. A dollar bi… Read more

Ordered mine a while ago. And yes – it’ll use a T3 Pic rail and mine definitely will too 😉

SeaDog,

I have been using Warne rings for a little of 5 years now on a few rifles, to include 3 different 300 magnums.  I am very impressed with the value, ease of mounting, and reliability of the Warne rings.  My new T3x will be getting a set of Warne rings once I figure out the scope that is going on the rifle.

On other forums and websites you w…

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If you want the best out of ANY rifle then hand loading is the way to go. That said all Tikka and Sako rifles shoot very well with Tikka/Sako cartridges and all Lapua. Use heavier bullets with that 1/8 twist, say 69gr and up, and you´ll see what all the fuzz is about …

I nearly the same has you but I clean after every shot for the first 5 then the same has you , also you’ve opened a can of worms asking this lol

Have the same secret method myself …  8)

Naaaah. It´s the new X1 Rimfire 🙂

I bought my T3 6.5-55 Hunter blue walnut last fall.  It came from Eurooptics a couple days before leaving for a Whitetail trip to Wyoming, so no time.  It's a tack driver, bugholeing at 100 yds.  Would like to load some 140s a little over the books, maybe 2650 or so, just to flatten the trajectory.  I know the books are quite conservative out of…

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Get a T3 TAC A1 and you´re set 😉
No limited editions ..
http://www.tikka.fi/rifles/tikka-t3x/t3x-tac-a1

Recoil sensitive or not but the caliber/round is one accurate bugger with exceptional ballistics. I load my ammo with either 108,123,136 or 139 gr Lapua Scenar for target shooting and the gun is a Tac Driver – to put it mildly 😉

I totally agree…6.5 will be my next purchase if I don't go 260…
Can't beat the ballistics and accuracy for a 1000yrd…

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Thanks Mallard,
That's a thought.  I think the debris which is light and dusty is probably cinder from not fully burned powder.  So I'll try heating up the load and try another powder as well.

It most definitely is just that. The recommended min loads are always ridiculously low.

Recoil sensitive or not but the caliber/round is one accurate bugger with exceptional ballistics. I load my ammo with either 108,123,136 or 139 gr Lapua Scenar for target shooting and the gun is a Tac Driver – to put it mildly 😉

+1 for heavier bullets. Mine loves 155 gr Lapua Scenar and upwards from there on.

A late reply but anyway : The barrel length is measured where it's attached to the action. Your first gun was definitely the 510mm barreled version and not what it should've been – a 600 mm barreled rifle.
Good you got it sorted though 😉

I have a Super Varmint in both .223 (with a 1/8″ twist) and in 6.5X55. Both bedded in a GRS Berserk stock. Absolutely fabulous shooters both of them I also have a T3X TAC A1 in .308. Haven´t had the time to really shoot it yet, just done the break-in on it, but it already shows some great promise.
You can´t go wrong with a Tikka 🙂

Try  Lapua Scenars 155gr. Will be an eye-opener 😉

+1 for 6.5X55 AND for the Varmint/Super Varmint model. Ridiculously accurate caliber – and rifle. Feed it with any Lapua Scenar bullets and you´ll be a happy Camper 😉

I changed the trigger spring on mine to a lighter one. Made the trigger 200% better. Now it can be adjusted faaaar down in weight for range work 😉

I have useld VV 160 with great success on all bullets from 130gr and upwards in my “Swede”.
Never tester the H4350 though.  Maybe i should  🙂

I have one (T3X Super Varmint bedded in a GRS Berserk stock) and it shoots extremely well. My favourite bullets are any Lapua Scenars from 108gr-139gr but it shoots pretty much everything ridiculously well. I hand load my ammo.
A 6.5×55 in a modern rifle that withstands heavy loads of today is an eye-opener for those who haven't shot one.
The… Read more

I don´t know what you all mean when you talk about “the factory aluminium rings” but the real “factory” rings are definitely made of steel. Called Sako Optilock.

A friend fluted his with straight flutes. Looks really nice.

Norma Vulcan and Lapua Naturalis. Both very popular for Moose/Elk here in Scandinavia.

It's once fire out of your rifle not out of somebody else's is it

My first thought as well. 🙂 🙂

Nice job on the oem mag !
I myself have found the 77gr Lapua Scenar as an extremely accurate bullet ( and the same goes for the little Brother 69gr Scenar ) but the A-Max 75gr was a very pleasant surprise . Unfortunately i have no 1000 ytd/1000 m range to shoot on so i do the testing on 200/300 meter range instead.
And the A-Max has been very good -… Read more

What ? Of course it does ..  😉

http://www.vapencentrum.com/sv/startsida/vapen/–kulgevar/–tikka/tikka-t3-ctr-ss-pid1328.htm

I know the single loading issue. I need to do that with several different bullets when loaded to preferred OAL. I use Vihtavuori powders (VV N 140 & N540 for the Heavy bullets) so i need to do some testing regarding the powder weight.
I agree the 75gr A-Max being a very good bullet for LR. Can´t order them anymore though due the fact Hornady… Read more

My thoughts exactly ..
” Hey , my mechanic just misplaced the battery while my Car was in service … ”  ;D

Don´t they sell them new over there ? If so then any Sako dealer should be able to provide you with one.
Commonplace over here …
http://cdn1.tikka.fi/sites/default/files/technicalspecs_t3x_varmint_0.pdf

It will work just fine.

If both barrels are 8 twist you will be looking about 150fps drop in velocity with the shorter 20″ barrel…on average in my testing I lost 35fps per/inch on a shorter 223 barrels, but some shorter barrels are pretty slick and have above average velocities.

I've compared and shot the factory TAC 20″ barrel side by side against the factory Varmint…

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As said a mere spring change will make the oem trigger much lighter. If that doesn´t do it for you then there are at least half a dozen different aftermarket triggers for the T3. Jard, Timney, Barnard Precision and Bix & Andy comes to mind first.
The Barnard trigger is sweeeet ( 400 NZ$ ) but the B&A beats them all – although you pay a hefty… Read more

It means that you should´ve had it “free from charge”. If you paid any money for it it´s adviceable to drag Beretta US to the Court and ask for a smallish compensation at around 1.000.000 USD.  ;D ;D

And so would i ..  8)

I'll give you an alternative break in process. A little JB bore paste on a patch for a few swipes to condition the bore (fine polish). Clean the bore with conventional solvent when dirty.
My Tikka barrel was very slick right out of the box. Settled in after 6-8 shots and has been great since.

Just remember to use a fired case in the chamber as a… Read more

You must lap even tier one rings, the polymer inserts are the only exception

Then Sako Optilock´s is a viable option as well.
That said i go with Spuhr or Seekins on my rifles. Spuhr is pricey stuff but the quality is second to none – and the owner of the Company lives just 15 min Car ride from our palatial “Casa de Ville” 🙂 🙂

I´m not the biggest fan of “Tacticool” rifles either. I´d , as said , just buy a Varmint and bed it into a GRS Bolthorn or Another good chassie. And that would give me a heavier barrel since the A1 has a “medium heavy” slapped on it. That would be at least as “T-cool” as the A1 and with less Money too ..

Import Before the final Brexit 🙂 🙂
It should be fairly easy within EU. They cost 2500 € though and while not bad i´d rather buy a Varmint/TAC model, drop kick the oem stock and bed the bugger in a ie GRS Bolthorn.

What the man above said 😉