I tried years ago and couldn't find any. They only had them in Canada. I'm not even sure if some made it to the US. Euro Optic sells a Tikka CTR .260 with a 20″ barrel or the Sporter with a 24″.

As said, POI will change. I did not notice any change in accuracy. If you want to spot your own hits, brakes (along with proper form) help a lot. Nice rifle OP.

Because it says Tactical. It has phospate finish. The bolt has some sort teflon finish. I'm not sure the Tactical has a better action or barrel.

If you're looking for a .308, you'll be extremely lucky to find a new supervarmint or varmint. The CTRs are still available.

I was a Tikka-whore for a couple of years and had both but sold the Tactical to… Read more

Tikkas don't really have heavy triggers to start with but you can adjust it to 2lbs. Maybe work on your trigger pull technique? You can also buy a YoDave trigger spring ($10) and go <1lb.

I'll play. .308 Varmint, Whiskey 3 Chassis, all shots prone w/ rear bag and Atlas bipod. 168Amax from Southwest Ammo. The paper is my best group from 5 rounds of shooting.

paper target – 5 shot at 100 yards

steel gong – 10 shots (shiny hits) at 335 yards (BLM land)

Have you tried replacing the vortex with a different scope? Chasing accuracy is a bitch so you have to be methodical.

My 25-06 doesn't like Rem 100 or Hornady Superformance. Skip anything PRVI Partizan. For factory, the regular Hornady SST was good. The Superformance runs too hot.

I am not an expert, but I suspect it is from a metal tool or rod or a stone. It might have occurred afield or in a vehicle — pointing the muzzle downward towards the floor  and acquiring a piece of gravel.

When was the ding first noticed? Has it effected accuracy/precision?

About the number of cleaning cycles mentioned: Anyone else care to…

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I used a drip of blue loctite and 20 in lbs in mine.

Have you considered a Mike Lucas Bore guide? You just tell him the action and caliber.

I have taken my T3 lite 25-06 to a 1000 with 2 hits in the 10 ring. Bone stock using Hornady 117 gr SST. It does heat up and start to string. 

After market is metal. Supposedly, the plastic shroud can crack although I've never seen it in person. I have aftermarkets but it's more cosmetic than anything else.

Talley or DNZ in lows or medium.

The scout is plenty for 600 yards. For 1000 yards, a 24″ barrel would be better.

Tozguy, I was referring to the issues Tikka/Sako had with some of the steel used for it's barrels(primarily ss) in 2004.  They were/could explode during firing.  It was a recall, and did not know if the finish of it's barrrels changed after the recall??  I also understand the recall was all complete and handled for those owners.  BTW I love my rif…

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That's nice. Enjoy your stick.

My Varmint is a 2004 and it's bead blasted in color. I prefer my finish.

On that stock, is the barrel free floating all the way to the receiver?  The reason I ask is because my varmint model factory stock, the forend touches the first 3 or so inches of the barrel from the front of the receiver.

That doesn't sound right. I can slip a dollar bill with mine all the way to the receiver.

I had my best groupings with the Hornady 117gr SST. The Superformance version of the 117 SST wasn't as good but I think it's more of the barrel heat-up.

M595/M695 has better stock and magazine.

Does it have a scope? If so, have you checked the base screws?

Which caliber & model did you get? I'm also in the Bay Area and glad to hear there are more Tikka shooters nearby.

I had already emailed Alex and no luck. I've been searching for 2 months now… Canada has that cal but they won't ship to US.

A little off-topic.

Jason, what your thoughts on the T3 Tactical vs TRG-22 on accuracy?

Side by side, easy to see the differences in machining.

T3: all calibers are long action
TRG: TRG-22 – short action, TRG-42 – long action

Less bolt lift angle in TRG

$$$

Definitely the noise. A lot of brakes now have no bottom ports so the dust problem goes away. I like having a brake more for minimizing muzzle flip/rise rather than the recoil.

You can also try a limbsaver pad since the stock pad is crummy.

I thought the roedale clamp-on is only for varmint size barrels.

Borka is good. I prefer traditional screwdriver types and this is accurate and easy to use.

WERA Torque Screwdriver,  11-29 in-lb

[img]http://images.grainger.com/B342_16/images/products/450×450/Adjustable-Torque-Screwdriver-6AAV7_AS01.JPG[/img]

Me likey!

Very nice,

My first experience with a Tikka was with a 695 7mm Rem Mag. Are you getting >3200 fps with that barrel length? BTW, 25-06 is an awesome round. I think a future project for me would be a heavy barrel 26″ for my standard 25-06. Who did the work for you?

Any in 260?

Beretta told me last year that they were only thinking of bringing the 223 and 308 to the US.

http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=249947598

Scope “mount to receiver” and “rings to rail” use in-lbs. 15 ft/lbs would strip the screws. Good luck.

FWIW, I used 36 in-lbs in my T3s.

Kjergaard Sports has a bunch of them in gunbroker for $1695.

My extended mags are all black. Search for these part numbers S5850374 , S5850375.

Awesome.

If it works with the stock bottom with no smithing and comes in 5/10rd, I'll buy a couple.

I really, really like the Talleys ring/base combo on Tikkas.