Forums › Forums › General Discussion › New Tikka T3 in .223, inaccurate :(
-
296 Bullseyes
Sorry should have said its a Thirdeye Tactical Evo stock
-
1 Bullseye
I have my Tikka stock screws torqued at 40 in-lbs. I can try adjusting those to see if that makes a difference. I guess I'll dial in 35 in-lbs and then increment it by 5 in-lbs. I wouldn't want to go too high. What would be the max to go up too? 65 in-lbs is as far as my FAT goes to. I definitely don't want to snap one off in there. What is the Tikka recommended value(s)? Are people torquing the front first, then the rear? A good procedure would be nice. I'm already aware of making sure the barrel still floats and that I should bump the butt stock on the group while slightly loose to make sure the lug is setting against the proper face of the stock.
-
1 Bullseye
I hear some people say with pilar bedding their gun likes 60 in lbs. Id say it is worth playing with if your having issues
-
105 Bullseyes
Don't be too discouraged with the gun yet…After hearing and seeing how accurate the T3 should be,.. I was also disappointed at times at the range. I've since figured out my rifle and improved my shooting with it.
I have a 1-8 twist 223 T3 lite and I love the rifle. It will out shoot any gun at our hunting camp out to 500 yrds…I only shoot these rounds:
Hornady 55gr Vmax
Hornady 53gr Superformance (GREAT AMMO!)
Hornady 75gr BTHP Match
Nosler 77gr BTHP Custom Competition MatchThe gun groups consistently .5″ – 1″ at 100yrds with just about any “good” ammo and pretty much the same at 200yrds with “great” ammo if conditions are good. I shot 1 of my best groups ever with Nosler 77gr a few weeks ago, it was under .5″ at 200yrds. Almost all touching…it by far the best group to date with the gun.
The Hornady 53 – 55gr shoots very well and its easy to find on the shelves where I live so thats my go to ammo for coyote hunting. I've attached a picture of a 6 round group of 53gr…first 5 all to the right but grouped well, the 6th shot is me adjusting for wind to see if i could sneak one in the bull.
I have also removed the pressure point in the stock which really does help and improve accuracy. I had read about this mod to cure fliers and it worked. The gun will string 3 – 5 rounds without a flier if I do my part. I shoot a lot and make sure everything is torqued to spec and have had no issues once the gun had about 50 round through it.
I love the gun so much that I also went and bought a 308 T3 Battue, and a 300WSM…all 3 gun are great shooters.
I'm sure you will get it to shoot. I'd try some quality ammo in 40 – 55gr (Hornady) and find one it likes…
-
1 Bullseye
Thanks for the encouragement. I haven't given up by any means. I will continue to run different ammo and will try some of the kinds you mentioned. Since I have the 1:10 twist, I probably won't be shooting much heavier than 62 grain, and I will start to back off the 55 grain and move down to see how that fairs.
-
1 Bullseye
Help for a new Tikka T3 owner. Took the barreled action out of the stock to adjust the trigger weight. Went very smooth up to that point. The issue I’m having is that when placing the barreled action back in the stock & following recommendations offered by 10 Spot Terminator the following happens. When tightening the tang screw the folded bill slides easily forward/back side/side. As I begin to tighten the front screw I can see the wings of the bill folding up. No matter what I seem to do the issue remains. Tried to torque the rear screw down to 15in pounds then the front to the same but the situation remains. Even at the 15 in# number I can only get the bill to flow 4.5 inchs from the end of the stock so I imagine that the 35”# would be equally problematic. I am used to having a free float down to 1-2 inches from the chamber not 5.5 or 6”. Some mention was made of the cross rib being removed to aid in the free float. Taking that out is a one way step that I do not wish to take until I am relatively sure that this will correct the issue. Can’t put the composite back once it’s out. This is my first composite stock so am doubly nervous. I’m probably doing something wrong but it’s got me buffaloed. I know there are wiser heads out there & I sure could use some of there expertise.
-
1 Bullseye
Have you tried replacing the vortex with a different scope? Chasing accuracy is a bitch so you have to be methodical.
-
105 Bullseyes
Help for a new Tikka T3 owner. Took the barreled action out of the stock to adjust the trigger weight. Went very smooth up to that point. The issue I’m having is that when placing the barreled action back in the stock & following recommendations offered by 10 Spot Terminator the following happens. When tightening the tang screw the folded bill slides easily forward/back side/side. As I begin to tighten the front screw I can see the wings of the bill folding up. No matter what I seem to do the issue remains. Tried to torque the rear screw down to 15in pounds then the front to the same but the situation remains. Even at the 15 in# number I can only get the bill to flow 4.5 inchs from the end of the stock so I imagine that the 35”# would be equally problematic. I am used to having a free float down to 1-2 inches from the chamber not 5.5 or 6”. Some mention was made of the cross rib being removed to aid in the free float. Taking that out is a one way step that I do not wish to take until I am relatively sure that this will correct the issue. Can’t put the composite back once it’s out. This is my first composite stock so am doubly nervous. I’m probably doing something wrong but it’s got me buffaloed. I know there are wiser heads out there & I sure could use some of there expertise.
If your guns pressure point is touching the barrel when the rifle is assembled (from the factory) there is no way to adjust or free float the barrel by this method you are trying or what was previously suggested you do.
Once the guns action is placed back in the stock, it will seat back in the factory position when torqued down with pressure below or above spec. The action screws do not have adjustability or play in them that would allow the barrel to be manipulated in the way previously described to you.
If you want a free floating barrel with the T3, you have to remove material from the stock, its that simple. Removing the pressure point on my rifle did not “hurt” accuracy or “increase” it. All it did was allow me to shoot and maintain a 3-5 shot group with the same single shot accuracy I was getting with a semi cool barrel.
If you have a gun where the material touching the stock is “more than average” from the factory and putting more pressure on the barrel when torqued down, this would cause accuracy issues especially when you heat up the barrel.
ALSO…when guys talk about removing the pressure point from the stock people think its a huge deal….its NOT. All you have to do is touch the area with any Dremel and remove a “little” material. You aren't cutting into the stock and removing massive amounts of material by no means.
-
1 Bullseye
Many thanks for the reply. Kinda thought that was the way of it. I removed the material that was at the 2 pressure points as well as some that was applying pressure along the sides. Let me tell you I was a bit shakey in doing this. Done it a bunch of times on wood stocks but this is my first on synthetic. Net-net it is full floated to 2 inches from the receiver. Range day tomorrow & we'll see how it goes.
Thanks for the confidence builders
Paul
-
1 Bullseye
Help for a new Tikka T3 owner. Took the barreled action out of the stock to adjust the trigger weight. Went very smooth up to that point. The issue I’m having is that when placing the barreled action back in the stock & following recommendations offered by 10 Spot Terminator the following happens. When tightening the tang screw the folded bill slides easily forward/back side/side. As I begin to tighten the front screw I can see the wings of the bill folding up. No matter what I seem to do the issue remains. Tried to torque the rear screw down to 15in pounds then the front to the same but the situation remains. Even at the 15 in# number I can only get the bill to flow 4.5 inchs from the end of the stock so I imagine that the 35”# would be equally problematic. I am used to having a free float down to 1-2 inches from the chamber not 5.5 or 6”. Some mention was made of the cross rib being removed to aid in the free float. Taking that out is a one way step that I do not wish to take until I am relatively sure that this will correct the issue. Can’t put the composite back once it’s out. This is my first composite stock so am doubly nervous. I’m probably doing something wrong but it’s got me buffaloed. I know there are wiser heads out there & I sure could use some of there expertise.
Remove the pinch points, it won't hurt it. I was in the same boat as you, got a take-off stock cheap just in case, but it worked for me and it will for you too.
When replacing the action, just snug up, not tighten, both action screws, tap the butt end a few times on the ground (muzzle up) to set the lug, tighten down the front action screw first then the rear, torque both to 35-40 in/lbs.
-
1 Bullseye
I got to shoot last weekend. Now I'm getting about 1.5 moa at 100 yards with the American Eagle el-cheap from Walmart ($10.50 for 20), which is better than earlier. I know I can get better than that and hope to find some ammo that aint crazy expensive that will do it. I also tried Federal Power Shok ($20 for 20) and it shot about 2 moa….TERRIBLE ammo for grouping (mark that stuff off the list). I'm gonna pop for the 53 grain Hornady Superformance ($25 for 20) and see how that does. Still searching for some decent priced ammo that is accurate for my Tikka 223 Lite.
-
296 Bullseyes
Don't bother about prices I started by using sako game heads very well made high end bullets but after my barrel was broken in couldn't get better than 1.5 Mia at 100 meters I now use federal eagle out of a group of 20 , 17 are sub 1moa the other3 1.5 Moa , don't let it spoil you shooting it will turn out ok in the end imo
-
1 Bullseye
About how many rounds did it take to “break 'er in”?
-
296 Bullseyes
It's a st/ steel barrel and I'd say about 100 rounds could be more , to be full broken in ,yours might take more or less , also I used frog lube solvent and Clp to clean the barrel don't know if that made any difference
-
1 Bullseye
I'm still on a quest to get my Tikka Lite in .223 to shoot well. Tried some Superformance Varmint 53 grain and it shot terrible at 100 yards. Not a good round for this particular gun. I'm going to do some additional cleaning and would like some advice from the experts. Right now I'm using the Otis system. I want to change to a bore guide and quality rod. What are my options? Looked at the Possum hollow but it seemed there may be some better options out there as far as bore guides. Haven't looked at rods, attachments, etc yet.
Log in to reply.