I DO like it!

I have a new, un-fired Factory T3, Stainless .223  barrel I can sell you. It has the 10 twist.

Send me an email for pictures, if you need them. yukonal@comcast.net

Lows work with a 50MM objective, but you might have to go Medium with your set-up.

Sounds to me like you're just not getting the stock down onto the recoil lug. Keep working at it, and it'll drop down on.

Like Dog says, you can sand out the contact areas to fully free float the barrel. I've don this to every Tikka that is still in a factory stock.

email sent…

We've been preaching Tikka for years. Some people just need to get the wax out of their ears. 😉

I hope you are not using factory plastic bottom metal and cranking up to 60…

How low have you guys gone safely with a T3 trigger? I'd love to get it to 8-10 ounces as it will be a dedicated target rifle.

For comparison, my F-Open rifle is 7 oz. My F-TR Tikka's are at 1# with Jard triggers, and my LR hunting Tikka's are at 1-1/2# to 1-3/4# with factory triggers and factory springs. I have a dozen Ernie's springs I need to… Read more

If you still want to try to get the lug out, try to put a strip of masking tape either on the recoil lug, or inside the jaws of a pair of vise grips, and use them to snug up tight, and wiggle it out. If you are patient and careful, you should be able to get it out unharmed.

It's a custom wrench I had built and welded up. Horseshoe shape with a cap that bolts on to the opposite side, fully enclosing the outside of the action…snugly. Nice long handle. ;D One good yank, and the action is free from the barrel.

And, you can call me Al… 🙂

side note…I wouldn't take a chance of twisting a T3 action using an inside… Read more

The plastic “rib” that is in your stock – was designed to be there for a reason.  Rather it is positioned to dampen barrel harmonics – and aid in accuracy for this particular stock/barrel combination.

Lock it into a lead sled at a range.

Speaking of harmonics, perhaps you could explain to us how locking the rifle into a mechanical fixture that… Read more

That's what happens when you don't get the action correctly and completely seated on the lug. The action is probably sitting a little forward or backward, and not completely down on the lug.

Take the action screws out, and slide the action fore and aft to try to get it to drop down over the lug. If that doesn't work, pull the barreled action and… Read more

search function.

A good barrel vise and a custom built outside action wrench that fits EXACTLY over the action…with NO slop.

Tikka's are guaranteed to shoot moa with 3 shots at 100 yards. If it doesn't, make them honor the guarantee and send it back. When the return it, have them include the test target with the ammo selected.

Out of all the rifles I've bedded with 10110, I doubt I've ever had the same mix ratio. I measure with a couple tablespoons, and eyeball it. But then, I've mixed alot of Bondo in my day. They've all turned out perfect.

I guess the weighing it on a scale is a good idea… ::)

😉

Sorry Eric, but there's only one easy way…

If you look at the home page, then go to recent articles, and find my “Gun Of The Month”, The Beast, you'll see my slabbed mini-magnum muscle brake on the end of a 24″ #6 Kreiger.

I love the Muscle Brake. Good choice.

Not necessarily in that order, but, yep. 😉

Sorry Larkin, I'm gonna throw the bullship flag on that one.

Take your Tier One rings, install them on your favorite action, and I'll put a lapping bar in them and start lapping…and show you how uneven they mate up.

Doesn't matter if it's the finish applied, the rings (if a 1 piece), the rings if two piece, or perfect rings fitting in screw holes… Read more

Might be a bolt handle issue. Put the original handle back in and see what happens. The new trigger spring shouldn't be an issue.

I use 25in-lbs (max) with a drip of Blue Loctite.

There it is.

And I lap every set of rings that go on my scopes. 75 to 80 percent on my hunting rifles, 100% on my competition rifles. Even NF rings need it.

Eric, if your bolt holes are touching, you can drill them out and install pillars. Or you can drill them out oversize, and use Devcon as the pillars. When you snug up the action, the action screws will self center in the oversize holes you drilled. You'll have to use release agent on both the action screws AND the action…as the Devcon will… Read more

you must full lenght size new brass initially to make sure it will chamber.

Do full case prep on all new brass just so you know what you have. And keep the neck expander button in to straighten any uneven necks.

I don't have the link, but YukonAl has some good pictures regarding bedding on this forum.

For those that know, is bedding the lug on a tikka sufficient or should we be bedding the lug and tang?

I always bed from(and including) the rear tang to the front of the action. And everything in between. The back of the rear tang stays un-touched, to keep… Read more

Leave the slot.

Now for a controversial topic. Glass bedding and pillar bedding.
Extremely mixed reviews on the subject.

And next, bedding the action.

Can it be done? How can it be done?.

I've pillar and glass bedded every one of mine. If you do a search, you'll see a few pics I've posted.

I've used a dremel with the small wire wheel.

$450 for the rifle. The pic rail is worth $20.

Steel recoil lug, proper torque on the action screws, and see how it shoots before you do anything else.

Nice job toughing it out, and nailing a beauty!

300WM packs a punch.

Well I ended up backing the fl size die back some so it doesn't bump the shoulder and now it's better and I'm able to get 2.282 with 55gr amax.  The only thing I'm worried about is the neck is only getting halfway resized which might mess with my neck tension.

This makes no sense to me, but what should I, a class 06 ammo manufacturer know,…

Read more

Talley LW's will be perfect for your rifle. Lows will give you room to spare.

It must be just the power of the ejector plunger bashing the case mouth against the inside of the action as it clears the chamber. I would not be worried about it , your reloading dies will correct it anyway.

Dan hit the nail…

It's normal, don't worry about it. You'll need to keep the expander button installed in your reloading sizing die.

I wouldn't go over 26″.

You can carefully cut the extra off while it's still on the rifle, with a hacksaw. File sharp edges and finish the shiny area with Birchwood Casey paint pen, used for common gunsmithing.

Like Dog, I've done several…while on the rifle.

I have a custom made wrench that EXACTLY fits over the action, with a 2' handle…all steel.

Tighten the barrel down in a barrel vise, put the wrench on…and give it one good pop. Saves cutting and ruining the barrel, and you can then sell it for a few bucks.

I've popped 8 barrels off, no sweat.

Check with Jason, here at tikkashooters. He had a couple for sale.

Filing the adjustment screw accomplishes the same thing as filing the larger screw.

No it doesn't. Do I have to explain that too?

Oh forget it…go do your own thing. Good luck.

If you have backed out the screw that controls the spring tension as far as you can and the trigger still is not as light as you want, then you can file a bit off the trigger assembly screw that stops the spring screw.

This is not a good idea unless you really know your stuff. 

Here it is Walter, now you can relax.

BUT, I file the spring screw.… Read more

If the Ernie spring doesn't help you…I may consider going over it again. Liability issues…if you know what I mean.

The o ring up front where the guide goes into the chamber, keeps the cleaning solvent from coming back into the action. I've used a dozen different ones in the last 30 years, and none of them DIDN'T have an o ring up front.

I do have one complaint about my new Tikka.  With the trigger adjustment screw dialed all the way out, I'm getting an unacceptable 3.5# trigger pull, as measured by my RCBS Premium Trigger Pull Gauge. 

Any thoughts/suggestions?  The advertising says it's adjustable from 2# to 4#.

I've posted several times on this forum on how to get the pull we… Read more

I set all mine to 1-1/2# to 1-3/4#.

Wait til you feel the bolt. 🙂

That sounds very uncharacteristic of a Tikka  –  the Nikon is a possibility though.

I've usually been able to “bore sight” a newly mounted scope by looking through the barrel at a large target on the 100 yd range.  Then move the crosshairs to the center of that large target.  When I fire the first shot I'm usually within 7″ of the aiming point.

Ther… Read more

Obviously your rifle is not properly bore sighted. You aint hittin' where your aiming.

Google “bore sighting a rifle”. If you can't get the scope aiming where the center of the bore is pointing, you need to take up a different sport.

Don't title your post “wildly inaccurate” until you know how well it shoots…when you finally get your scope… Read more

Mine is sitting on the bench. Haven't used it yet, but I'll cross my fingers and hope it doesn't blow up when I do.

Looks like it'll do a good job.

Eric, are you going to use Templaque(sp?) to adjust the time?

Looks to me like you have the bipod on backwards.