-
Bedding T3 lite Question
If I'm going to do a full bedding job, should I completely remove the recoil lug pocket/slot in the stock and let the Devcon create a new one, OR use the existing slot and bed around the walls of the slot in the receiver?
I know the Devcon will be harder and stronger… BUT the existing pocket/slot in the stock is bonded better to the rest of the stock (since its injection molded in one piece) than the Devcon will be to the rest of the stock. As in, the existing pocket and stock are one piece. No matter how much prep you do, the Devcon will never bond as strongly to the stock. Thus creating the slightly possibility that the shock from the recoil lug hitting the Devcon bedding will disbond the Devcon from the stock.
Related question, if I am going to completely remove the existing pocket/slot in the stock, why not make a new recoil lug that is much thicker and matches the width of the slot in the action? Then continue to temporarily bond it to action and bedding the stock as above?
Thoughts?
-
10 Replies
-
Do not waste your time with the plastic stock bedding it.
Get a cheap $125 Boyds wood stock to bed.
also a tight fitting recoil lug is not ideal in the action. Stock yes…. action no… just the front recoil surface should be in contact.
also as far as plastic stocks go tikka is one of the better ones. Enjoy as is or up grade stock. -
Leave the slot.
-
I removed the slot when I did mine. No need for a Boyd's stock unless you want one, and they're heavier. The T3 stock has a bad rep, but is stiff and much better than most others. Think about stabilizing the front end up to the height of the ribs to make it even stronger. Use resin without metal for that as it weighs less than Devcon.
Before you set the action into the Devcon, epoxy the lug into the recess of the action then let it all dry and the lug will break off and remain in the bedding perfectly aligned.
Look at the terminalballisticsresearch website and YouTube vids for more detail.
-
I have a lb of Devcon on order with an eye to bedding my B-Mag, so will use some of the left overs to bed some of my Tikkas.
-
Matchman/Yukonal,
What's the reasoning behind not wanting a tight fit between the action and the recoil lug and using the existing slot/thickness recoil lug? At first I figured I stumbled across a great idea, but after seeing that not many people used a thicker recoil lug I figured there was a reason. Just not sure what it is?
I'd go with another stock, but the factory stock actually fits me pretty well. And for a lightweight plastic stock, glass reinforced Polypropylene is about as good as your going to get. I'm actually going to layup some small carbon fiber stringers and bed them into the forward section of the stock.
-
I don't have the link, but YukonAl has some good pictures regarding bedding on this forum. I have watched several YouTube vids on bedding and none of them deal with the basics (except cavedweller perhaps). As I understand it, the goal is to make a good & clean interface between the metal parts that react with recoil. in other words on a tikka, the recoil lug and ?
For those that know, is bedding the lug on a tikka sufficient or should we be bedding the lug and tang?
-
I've only bedded a couple T3 stocks so far, all “B&C”…I've actually milled out the existing cnc'd/cast lug and created a larger channel for a fully bedded steel lug with bedding of the action and tang. I highly recommend bedding the lug in the stock wherever possible. No need to have a removable lug on a T3 action especially if you are working with an “aluminum block”…But with a “synthetic stock” there is always a chance the bedding material won't stick the same so leaving the slot maybe is a good idea, you will need to do your research on the compound needed and pillar bedding is a must with any synthetic stock bedding job.
I'm sure AL could give you some info regarding the synthetic stock bedding, i think he's done a few before.If you are already going through the trouble of setting up for a bedding job you might as well go all the way and do the full action.
FYI – the 2 T3 rifles I've bedded shot the same after upgrading to a B&C stock and secondly bedding the B&C stock , no noticeable improvement in groups with “handholds”…but they look prettier!
-
You should not use the large lug as there needs to be slight movement under recoil before the barreled action returns to battery. That's why when bedding a Rem you need to relieve the front, sides and bottom of the lug, leaving direct contact between the bedding and the rear of the lug only. Same principle applies with a T3, but in reverse – you only want contact with the front face of the lug to the front face of the action recess. You should full-length bed and an inch or so of the Knox too.
All you need to know here:
http://www.ballisticstudies.com/Knowledgebase/MatchGrade+Bedding+Compound+Instructions.html
-
Another alternative is to rebarrel and have a recoil lug fitted. I had mine done by Long Rifles Inc and the work is superb. Bedded myself using Devcon 10110 and same principles as for Rem bedding. Harder to do on a T3 due to straight walls on the action, but not that difficult.
Give it a try and see how it goes. If you totally screw it up, just get another stock second hand for $100 or less and chalk it down to experience.
-
I don't have the link, but YukonAl has some good pictures regarding bedding on this forum.
For those that know, is bedding the lug on a tikka sufficient or should we be bedding the lug and tang?
I always bed from(and including) the rear tang to the front of the action. And everything in between. The back of the rear tang stays un-touched, to keep the original elevation, but everything else gets opened up .040″ and bedded with 10110.
Log in to reply.