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Suggestions for T3 that won’t shoot
My wife purchased a new Tikka T3 Lite SS in 30:06 2 years ago. It sat in the gun safe for about a year and we finally got around to putting a scope on it and went out to sight it in. Installed weaver bases and Burris rings and mounted a good Leupold scope on it. The first 2 shots were in the same hole but it hasn't shot a decent group since. We have a lot of rifles so this one went back in the safe and onto the back burner until recently when I went out to try it out again.
Tried ammo from at least 6 different brands and bullet weights from 150-180. Had 2 other good shooters try to shoot a group with it and we all got groups from 1 1/2 – 2 1/2 inches with only 1 sub MOA group out of 80+ rounds. Mounted another new scope on it about midway through (another Leopold VX3 CDS 4.5 – 14 X 40) and it didn't shoot any better with the second scope. Mounted the first scope on another rifle and shot a one-hole group – nothing wrong with the scope.
Started looking it over a little closer. The barrel is free-floated until you get within 2 1/2 inches of the receiver and then have contact with the stock. Pulled the barrel/action out of the stock and found the recoil lug looked worn (hmmm?). Tried putting the barrel/action back into the stock and it doesn't seat properly. It is apparent that the groove in the action isn't seating properly over the recoil lug – the barrel/action just sort of “rocks” back and forth over the lug.
Called Beretta Customer Service and found that the rifle is just over the 2 year warranty period (my bad for not getting to it sooner). Just ordered a new stainless steel recoil lug from Mountain Tactical but it is on back order for 2-3 weeks.
Even after I install the new recoil lug I am guessing the barrel will still not be free-floated for the first couple of inches if it isn't now. I am no gunsmith. I have successfully done some sanding on the stocks of other rifles and got them free-floated but I have never done a bedding job. Does this sound like something I can correct myself or should I be considering taking this thing to a gunsmith? I would like to try something different while I am waiting for the new recoil lug.
I have heard a lot of feedback on how accurate these Tikka's are but you couldn't prove it by this one.
Thanks for your suggestions.
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7 Replies
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Hi you have done the right thing with the recoil lug , my guess is it's mainly down to the barrel not being fully clear of the stock , have to test to see if the barrel is floated when it's hot , 2 shots are on the money then the 3 the barrel has got too hot expanded and is touching the barrel at the well documented pinch point at the front of the stock ,
Wait for the lug get it put in take it shooting and then check the clearance -
Something seems to be off forsure…here's what i would do…
– Clean the barrel and take the action out of the stock.
– Check stock for cracks or signs of compression
– Check the barrel crown
– Pull the recoil lug from the stock and check to make sure its actually fully seated in the stock properly.
There should be no rocking of the action when its seated properly in the stock with proper lug height.
– Flip the recoil lug (action indent will now go down into the stock so up side is new) and install fully back into the stock, plastic mallet works great to seat it.
– Check barrel clearance in the stock…I personally free float all my Tikka's right to the action, its works for me but guys will debate whether is necessary. I've only had positive results.
– Torque the rail & rings down to spec
– Reassemble and torque the action screws to 35in-lbs
– After you foul the bore, get your favourite ammo
– Shoot 1 group at 35in-lbs
– Shoot 1 group at 40in-lbs
– shoot 1 group at 45in-lbs*shoot 3 as fast as you can before barrel heats up, or shoot 3 completely cold bore shots…choice its yours, whatever you feel more comfortable with…
My guns have not really varied much with group size on different torque setting but some guns will like one over the other…I use 40-45in-lbs on all my Tikka stocks.
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Thanks for the suggestions. I've been swabbing the bore between each 3-shot group and clean it thoroughly at the end of each range session. I did inspect the crown and it looks good. I will go ahead and invert the recoil lug and see what happens. I have two bases rather than a rail for the scope but I did torque all the screws with my Fat Wrench. I also lapped the rings before mounting the second scope. I torqued the action screws to 45 in-lbs but will try it at 35 and 40 as you suggested.
I think the key is going to be getting the action properly seated in the stock. If I can do that without making it worse I think I'll be OK. I just get a little nervous when I am removing material from the stock.
Thanks again.
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If its not properly seated, you have a problem with the depth on the recoil lug…may not be pressed in far enough…
When installing the action, slide the action from front to back over the lug to help get it aligned properly.
This should help it slide and drop right in place, should be able to squeeze it together quite easily with your hands. Before you torque the screws, hold the gun vertical (barrel up) and tap the stock on the floor to help seat the action on the lug…sometimes this helps.Good luck. Sounds like your entire problem is revolving around the recoil lug not installed properly…to high.
Its not uncommon for this to happen if the lug peels off some of the stick and traps it underneath as its being inserted…this will cause it to be too high and give you the issue you seem to be having. -
Sounds to me like you're just not getting the stock down onto the recoil lug. Keep working at it, and it'll drop down on.
Like Dog says, you can sand out the contact areas to fully free float the barrel. I've don this to every Tikka that is still in a factory stock.
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Hi wild, Dogdown covered well the points to watch, I would be surprised if your 3 shot strings heated the barrel to the extent it affected groups to the extent you observe. I have basically the same rifle (several years older) that will shoot just under 1 inch @100yds with factory Hornady light mag 180 gr (now discontinued). I just had Jason put his compensator on it and with the mt recoil lug, bolt shroud and pic rail I will load develop again and post results – I will test the factory stock and with the Berserk stock just to see if the wood stock is making trouble.
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All of the above. And one fact can´t be enough stressed : The barrel needs to have ample swinging space = room to free float or you´ll never get it to shoot consistent. The norm “a Dollar bill between the stock/barrel” doesn´t cut it. You need to be able to , at least , draw a business card all the way.
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