-
T3 Lite 22-250 build! Need a few pointers
Hey guys, first off apologies if this is in the wrong section. Feel free to move it.
So as the title states, I'm currently about halfway through building my T3 Lite. The aim is to finish with a rifle which is swinging more towards a 'long range rig' or even a bench rest shooter.
Bear in mind, it is a hunting rifle, i do plan on visiting ranges occasionally but seeing as there isn't one close to me, I cant justify a dedicated target rifle.
I've determined that barrel length is not an issue as i shoot out of vehicles, I never go out walking with it. So weight and length aren't a factor.
So basically it started life as a T3 Lite synthetic in 22-250.
Had it for about 10 months before I got the idea of making it a custom build. First thing to go were cheap optics. It now has a Zeiss hd5 5-25×50mm.
More scope than I'll ever need for quite a long time, if not forever.I also did away with factory rings the same time the Zeiss was put on. It rests on a DNZ one peice mount which screws to the receiver.
Next, I swapped out the synthetic stock for a GRS sport/varmint stock and lightened the trigger at the same time. It's now considerably better to shoot than before.
Now i believe I'm in the final stage of the build, I have two more parts I want to put on it and then it SHOULD be sorted. This is where I'm after advice.
I have a set trigger ordered/waiting for me to pick up. Directly from Beretta i believe. From what I've been told it has two triggers that will sit where the old one used to. One is to be used and set as a normal hunting trigger and the other is a hair trigger which can be activated at any time.
The next thing I want to do is swap out the stock barrel.
I've been in touch with a reputable company that manufacture, supply and fit.Now, I'm probably keeping the standard 1:14 twist rate unless anyone can tell me why I'd be better off with a faster one. Also, I want to get it cut at either 26-28 inch.
Extra weight is a big factor to help me keep it steady but I also believe there is some velocity to be gained with a longer barrel.So thats where I'm at. Anyone, please share thoughts and comments on what I'm doing right, and what I'm doing wrong. If it were you, how you build it?
What would you change? I'm after any advice at all.
Also, its worth noting I make my own rounds and have developed a fantastic load. I run 55gr Nosler ballistic silver tips.Look foward to hearing from everyone!!
-
16 Replies
-
Thought I'd add a few things so everyone is on the same page. I realise its a lot smarter financially to buy a better platform but not only am i already past the point of 'financially efficient' the rifle was a 21st present so it has huge sentimental value. Therefore selling it is not an option.
Have had thoughts of going to a faster twist to handle heavier bullets, then have the extra barrel length to help make up lost velocity ( if that even works). I've read a lot of mixed reviews on the difference it actually makes but the general consensus seems to be, yes it does add a little velocity per inch of barrel.
Once again, look foward to hearing from everyone
-
Congratulations on a fine rifle and scope. My only change to your build would be the barrel twist rate.
Please don't take my opinion to be a criticism as we all have our preferences. I would build a long range 22-250 by starting with a 1:8 twist barrel. You could be launching 80.5 gr Bergers or 75 gr A-max bullets at high 3000 fps speeds and be engaging targets relatively easily at over 800 meters. A 1:14 twist limits you severely in bullet choice. The great advantage of starting with a Tikka is the fact that you can use the inherent long action to your advantage when planning a long range build. Get your new barrel throated for longer than 50 gr bullets, including the VLD offerings. With a fast twist you have more options.
With the Tikkas' long action and aftermarket magazines you could have a incomparable varmint rifle that will shoot every bullet weight between 50gr and 80.5 gr. Also go with the longer barrel unless you want portability.
-
Eric is totally right,…you have to change the twist rate if you re-barrel to shoot any projectile heavier then 50g for any long range shooting. 1-8 would be great but a lot guys are getting away with a 1-10 twist and a good 60gr projectile in a 22-24″ tube. Velocities with hand loads are around 3500fps or greater and its an absolute laser out to 500yrds with a good BC 60gr like Nosler 60gr BT spritzers.
If its going to be more of a hunting rig I'd go with the 10 twist and go for speed…if you really want to play around with long range shooting then go with a 8 or 9 twist.
Its awesome that there as some many new high speed builds being posted for .22 cal projectiles.
I'm starting to feel my slow 223 8-twist Varmint is over the hill…..NOT! -
I've got to agree with Eric on this. Twist rate is the major thing you should probably change. A twist of 1:8″ will handle anything well, especially if you're trying to stretch the range out. You'll need the faster twist to stabilize heavier rounds that have better ballistics for downrange performance.
I've recently put together a T3 similarly that now has a 32″ Bartlein on it in 1:8.5″ twist. It was built to handle the 7mm 180gr Berger Hybrid Target bullet, and it handles very well ending up with velocities of 3050fps from a .280 Ackley Improved.
From what I've experienced barrel length typically adds on average of 33 fps per inch.
-
I have a dream build that includes a tikka 22-250 with a 1:8 twist. It projects a 75 gr amax at 3800 fps or an imaginary speed close to that. Anyway let's work on getting this right.
We can fix our problems given clean research -
I have a dream build that includes a tikka 22-250 with a 1:8 twist. It projects a 75 gr amax at 3800 fps or an imaginary speed close to that. Anyway let's work on getting this right.
We can fix our problems given clean researchI'd buy one!
-
I'm so happy with my Sightron iii
What can I do with that? -
Cheers for the help guys.
It's predominantly a hunting rifle so perhaps I'll steer clear of vld's as I've heard they don't expand ( as they aren't supposed to) therefore not providing reliable knockdown on pests/game. I've been told they pass straight through leaving 2 small holes for the animal to bleed out from.Whatever round I choose will need to be available in ballistic tips. Does anyone know of any hunting rounds in .224 over 65gr?
Will definitely think harder about which twist rate I choose.
Thanks again. Will keep you updated.
-
The best coyote size hunting / target bullet I have used for hand loads is the 60gr Nosler BT Spitzer…easiest bullet I have ever worked with for range and accuracy. Then I switched to the 75gr amax for longer ranges. Have shot the 75gr bullet from my 223 out to 900yrds on targets and have hunted out to 500yrds with it, great bullet if you have the twist rate. If not then the 60gr Nosler will do everything you need it to do and it will reach out to 500-600yrds very accurately with good loads. I routinely shoot 4″ clays out to 400-500yrds with the 60gr with surprising few misses when gun is dialed in.
Both are great predator bullets but you will need to be careful with shot placement if hunting for meat.
The 75gr amax will do alot of damage up close at high velocities, where as the 60gr Nosler is more forgiving.I could not find better bullets that provided the BC and accuracy I was looking for when working up hand loads.
-
I wouldn't go over 26″.
-
Appreciate all the advice guys.
Rifle has had an atlasworxs alloy dbm fitted recently but nothing else. I've got a yodave trigger spring on the way as its literally 10x cheaper than a set trigger and I think it'll serve me just fine.
Now for a controversial topic. Glass bedding and pillar bedding.
Extremely mixed reviews on the subject.Now, ive found pillar bedding kits complete with a slightly larger than standard titanium recoil lug. What are everyones thoughts on this? And next, bedding the action.
Can it be done? How can it be done? And most importantly is it worth it? I know cause of the Tikkas reverse recoil lug setup it's a different ballgame than regular setups.
Once again any advice would be appreciated.
Cheers.
-
Appreciate all the advice guys.
Rifle has had an atlasworxs alloy dbm fitted recently but nothing else. I've got a yodave trigger spring on the way as its literally 10x cheaper than a set trigger and I think it'll serve me just fine.
Now for a controversial topic. Glass bedding and pillar bedding.
Extremely mixed reviews on the subject.Now, ive found pillar bedding kits complete with a slightly larger than standard titanium recoil lug. What are everyones thoughts on this? And next, bedding the action.
Can it be done? How can it be done? And most importantly is it worth it? I know cause of the Tikkas reverse recoil lug setup it's a different ballgame than regular setups.
Once again any advice would be appreciated.
Cheers.
Hey man,
I would see how it shoots. I mean bedding does tend to make things better but you may as well see if it shoots first and you may end up getting another stock later on down the line that has an integral block in it anyway… so if it shoots then leave it be!
I agree with the 8 twist option too. If you are going out to range then it depends on your targets for projectile composition.. The VLD as you said wont expand at range as the “Hunting” version is in 6mm and above.. maybe you should get a .243 😀
What will you be shooting at range? oh.. and a few pictures never hurt….
-
Now for a controversial topic. Glass bedding and pillar bedding.
Extremely mixed reviews on the subject.And next, bedding the action.
Can it be done? How can it be done?.
I've pillar and glass bedded every one of mine. If you do a search, you'll see a few pics I've posted.
-
Bedded mine too. I wouldn't go with an oversize recoil lug as you want some free play there to avoid pinching. The front of the lug (nearest the muzzle) should be the only part that touches the action recess front face. The top of the lug and the rear should be relieved with tape. I do this by placing a small crescent of electrical tape on the rear face of the action recess. Once you break the action out of the set bedding, you should scrape the front face of the bedding a little to relieve the area where foremost part if the action sits in the bedding.
I use Devcon 10110 plastic steel.
Glue the recoil lug in the action recess with epoxy and set it into the bedding compound like you would with a Rem action with an integral recoil lug. When you break tha action out the lug will remain in the bedding and will be perfectly aligned.
Useful tip is to put the rifle in a deep freeze for 10 minutes before breaking it out.
Look at Nathan Foster's website (terminalballisticsresearch) in NZ and YouTube vids for details.
T3s aren't as easy to bed as Remingtons, but it's not that difficult to do.
-
Meant to say that I second the recommendation to use A-Max. They're not designed for hunting, but they break up well at low velocities, so are good for long range work. Get your chamber throated for bullets seated as far out as you can whilst still having at least one calibre of bullet length in the case neck for concentricity. Make up a dummy round to get you OAL and then ask your gunsmith to throat to that OAL footprint your specific bullet. The T3 action can accommodate long OALs, so you will have no problems there, or with mag length.
Log in to reply.