Congratulations on a fine rifle and scope.  My only change to your build would be the barrel twist rate.

Please don't take my opinion to be a criticism as we all have our preferences.  I would build a long range 22-250 by starting with a 1:8 twist barrel.  You could be launching 80.5 gr Bergers or 75 gr A-max bullets at high 3000 fps speeds and be engaging targets relatively easily at over 800 meters.  A 1:14 twist limits you severely in bullet choice.  The great advantage of starting with a Tikka is the fact that you can use the inherent long action to your advantage when planning a long range build.  Get your new barrel throated for longer than 50 gr bullets, including the VLD offerings.  With a fast twist you have more options. 

With the Tikkas' long action and aftermarket magazines you could have a incomparable varmint rifle that will shoot every bullet weight between 50gr and 80.5 gr. Also go with the longer barrel unless you want portability. 

Eric is totally right,…you have to change the twist rate if you re-barrel to shoot any projectile heavier then 50g for any long range shooting.  1-8 would be great but a lot guys are getting away with a 1-10 twist and a good 60gr projectile in a 22-24″ tube.  Velocities with hand loads are around 3500fps or greater and its an absolute laser out to 500yrds with a good BC 60gr like Nosler 60gr BT spritzers.

If its going to be more of a hunting rig I'd go with the 10 twist and go for speed…if you really want to play around with long range  shooting then go with a 8 or 9 twist.

Its awesome that there as some many new high speed builds being posted for .22 cal projectiles.
I'm starting to feel my slow 223 8-twist Varmint is over the hill…..NOT!

I've got to agree with Eric on this. Twist rate is the major thing you should probably change. A twist of 1:8″ will handle anything well, especially if you're trying to stretch the range out. You'll need the faster twist to stabilize heavier rounds that have better ballistics for downrange performance.

I've recently put together a T3 similarly that now has a 32″ Bartlein on it in 1:8.5″ twist. It was built to handle the 7mm 180gr Berger Hybrid Target bullet, and it handles very well ending up with velocities of 3050fps from a .280 Ackley Improved.

From what I've experienced barrel length typically adds on average of 33 fps per inch.

I have a dream build that includes a tikka 22-250 with a 1:8 twist.  It projects a 75 gr amax at 3800 fps or an imaginary speed close to that.  Anyway let's work on getting this right.
We can fix our problems given clean research

I have a dream build that includes a tikka 22-250 with a 1:8 twist.  It projects a 75 gr amax at 3800 fps or an imaginary speed close to that.  Anyway let's work on getting this right.
We can fix our problems given clean research

I'd buy one!

I'm so happy with my Sightron iii
What can I do with that?

The best coyote size hunting / target bullet I have used for hand loads is the 60gr Nosler BT Spitzer…easiest bullet I have ever worked with for range and accuracy.  Then I switched to the 75gr amax for longer ranges.  Have shot the 75gr bullet from my 223 out to 900yrds on targets and have hunted out to 500yrds with it, great bullet if you have the twist rate.  If not then the 60gr Nosler will do everything you need it to do and it will reach out to 500-600yrds very accurately with good loads. I routinely shoot 4″ clays out to 400-500yrds with the 60gr with surprising few misses when gun is dialed in.

Both are great predator bullets but you will need to be careful with shot placement if hunting for meat.
The 75gr amax will do alot of damage up close at high velocities, where as the 60gr Nosler is more forgiving.

I could not find better bullets that provided the BC and accuracy I was looking for when working up hand loads. 

I wouldn't go over 26″.

Appreciate all the advice guys.

Rifle has had an atlasworxs alloy dbm fitted recently but nothing else. I've got a yodave trigger spring on the way as its literally 10x cheaper than a set trigger and I think it'll serve me just fine.

Now for a controversial topic. Glass bedding and pillar bedding.
Extremely mixed reviews on the subject.

Now, ive found pillar bedding kits complete with a slightly larger than standard titanium recoil lug. What are everyones thoughts on this? And next, bedding the action.

Can it be done? How can it be done? And most importantly is it worth it? I know cause of the Tikkas reverse recoil lug setup it's a different ballgame than regular setups.

Once again any advice would be appreciated.

Cheers.

Hey man,

I would see how it shoots. I mean bedding does tend to make things better but you may as well see if it shoots first and you may end up getting another stock later on down the line that has an integral block in it anyway… so if it shoots then leave it be!

I agree with the 8 twist option too. If you are going out to range then it depends on your targets for projectile composition.. The VLD as you said wont expand at range as the “Hunting” version is in 6mm and above.. maybe you should get a .243 😀

What will you be shooting at range? oh.. and a few pictures never hurt….

Now for a controversial topic. Glass bedding and pillar bedding.
Extremely mixed reviews on the subject.

And next, bedding the action.

Can it be done? How can it be done?.

I've pillar and glass bedded every one of mine. If you do a search, you'll see a few pics I've posted.

Bedded mine too. I wouldn't go with an oversize recoil lug as you want some free play there to avoid pinching. The front of the lug (nearest the muzzle) should be the only part that touches the action recess front face. The top of the lug and the rear should be relieved with tape. I do this by placing a small crescent of electrical tape on the rear face of the action recess. Once you break the action out of the set bedding, you should scrape the front face of the bedding a little to relieve the area where foremost part if the action sits in the bedding.

I use Devcon 10110 plastic steel.

Glue the recoil lug in the action recess with epoxy and set it into the bedding compound like you would with a Rem action with an integral recoil lug. When you break tha action out the lug will remain in the bedding and will be perfectly aligned.

Useful tip is to put the rifle in a deep freeze for 10 minutes before breaking it out.

Look at Nathan Foster's website (terminalballisticsresearch) in NZ and YouTube vids for details.

T3s aren't as easy to bed as Remingtons, but it's not that difficult to do.

Meant to say that I second the recommendation to use A-Max. They're not designed for hunting, but they break up well at low velocities, so are good for long range work. Get your chamber throated for bullets seated as far out as you can whilst still having at least one calibre of bullet length in the case neck for concentricity. Make up a dummy round to get you OAL and then ask your gunsmith to throat to that OAL footprint your specific bullet. The T3 action can accommodate long OALs, so you will have no problems there, or with mag length.