[yukonal]

Do all the searching you can, then get back to me and let me know when any of the “plastic parts” have failed…

They aren't plastic.

[yukonal]

Used Tikkas in 300WSM are a dime a dozen, as nobody likes the recoil in such a light rifle. You should be able to pick up a donor cheap, and on just about any hunting forum.

[yukonal]

Matt,

A T3 Lite Stainless would hold up better to abuse than a nice wood stocked Hunter. That said, they are as rugged as any other wood/blued rifle. Not at all fragile.

I recently bought a used 6.5X55 from a guy that shot silhouette matches with it. He told me it had 3,000 rounds shot thru it. The accuracy went from 1/2 moa to 1 moa when I bought it. That's 1″ at 100 yards.

[yukonal]

Mark,

Sounds like a fun project…and, welcome! I don't what bolt face a SAUM is, but buy a used Tikka T3 rifle with the same size bolt face, and you are ready to go. Lots of good sources for barrels, go to Accurate Shooter and check out their sponsors and advertisers that sell barrels.

You'll have to have a new barrel chambered, threaded, and fit to your action. That's gunsmith stuff. I've built 3 customs on Tikka actions in the last year, and another one in the works. I've been thru the good, the bad, and the ugly. Hope some of this advice helps.

[yukonal]

Get a good bore guide and a carbon rod and keep it clean…

[yukonal]

yes I do. shoot me an email.

lhxbany@pbzpnfg.arg.

[yukonal]

Welcome to the forum. VX2 with LR Duplex is an awesome scope.

[yukonal]

I'll buy them off of you if the price is right. Let me know what you want. Couple bucks is better than “chunking them”.

[yukonal]

Are you gonna trim the end that sticks out over the barrel flush with the action? A hacksaw, file, and emery paper works pretty good.

Unless you have access to a mill…

[yukonal]

I would just pick a bullet you want to shoot, and a powder that you can find, and work thru a reloading manual. My last .308 hammered with Varget and 165 NBT's.

[yukonal]

the stock's plastic webbing in the forearm was making contact with the barrel in several spots.  It makes absolutely no sense that Tikka engineers would design it that way unless they knew there were significant issues with the plastic stock that needed to be compensated for in that

That's impossible, as the “webbing” is recessed under the barrel channel. That “webbing” you refer to is for strength. It may have been making contact somewhere, but it wasn't there.

Sounds like a bedding issue. Did you take the barreled action out and sand a little off the sides of the stock up by the barrel shank? Easy fix, and works wonders.

[yukonal]

Depending on the brand of rail, get all 4 screws started first. Then take them out one at a time, add a dab of blue loctite, and screw back in. When all 4 are back in, torque to 35 inch pounds.

20 inch pounds is for rings, not bases.

[yukonal]

Wylde chamber is NOT neccessary for your purposes. Go ahead and shoot it.

[yukonal]

Welcome to the forum Larkin! I shoot a .223 Super Varmint in F-Class competition. Hopefully I can be of some help to you. I check in every now and then.

[yukonal]

I've heard this was gonna happen. Glad I have 3 of the 8 twisters…

I just don't see why they would do this, the 8 twists hammer with the 50's, 55's, and all the way up to 80's.