Wwould reloading discussions go under General category?

I was looking through a Tikka owners manual that I recently found online and it didn’t specify a torque spec for those screws. It listed torque numbers for Action Screws, Sight Screws, Muzzle Brake, and Opti-Loc fasreners.

I found a Tikka manual that has some Torque specs listed

I found an older thread I started which has a little more Info

Removing raised cheek piece on a Varmint/Super-Varmint stock

To update this thread – I ended up getting a Rem Varmint contour barrel from Krieger as a starting point. I had Krieger reduce the diameter of the breach end to 1.150″ to be more compatible with the Tikka action. We did have to open the barrel channel in the T3 stock slightly.

It sounds like the cartridge is a little too long for your chamber. Try applying permanent marker over the entire bullet. Then carefully insert the cartridge by hand. First try firmly pushing on the back of the cartridge with your finger and then remove the cartridge to have a look. (you might need to push it out with a cleaning rod) Where on…

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Has anyone tried to remove the cheekpiece on a T3 Varmint stock? How is attached?

On my hunting rifle I use a Vais radial brake.

My .22-250, T3 Varmint, is about toast. I need to be getting a replacement barrel. For those of you who have gone through this, what barrel profile did you get?

I came back to this forum looking for action screw torque recommendation and found this old thread. I ended up using Varget behind a 55 gr Blitzking. More recently I’ve realized this barrel is on its last shots. It fouls terribly so I can only get a few good groups before they open up.

I like to use the 140 gr Hybrid from Berger in my .260 Rem.  It has a 8.5 twist, but then I shoot at 5000' elevation.

Man, that sounds like a bummer of an outing!

I'm trying to better understand  —  were you able to shoot some number of rounds before the problems started?  Or was it troublesome right away?

    —  Todd

Nice looking rifle and nice video.  Thanks for sharing.

          —  Todd

Yeah, I was hoping someone would chime in on your question.  I haven't taken the time to study the firing pin assembly to see how it might be taken apart.

Are you familiar with how auto engine valves are held on?  Where there is a plate on the valve spring and a couple “keepers” which drop into the plate and fit into a notch on the valve stem?  Th… Read more

I would go with an EGW HD rail and Nightforce rings.

Does this help?

That sounds great!  Let us know how they shoot.

Thanks for the update.  Glad to hear you LGD was so willing to help you try something different and to figure out the problem. 

You'll have to decide if the improvement of using the 26 Nosler is worth it.  Or if you just want something different.  Then talk to a couple gunsmiths who work on Tikka rifles and see if they would rechamber your 7mm factory barrel or if you want to spend the extra bucks to put a good barrel on it. 

Check out Long Rifles Inc as one possibility to… Read more

Man, you guys sound good!  Good to hear your Tikka did so well out of the box.

Were you dialing for elevation or holding over?

Try some of the Federal Gold Metal Match ammo in 168 and 175 grain.  One of those might work well.

Man, that sounds like a sweet set up.  A few types of Federal ammo should be a good start.  Hopefully you'll find one of the recipes the rifle likes.  What weight bullet would you like to hunt deer with?  How long are the shots you have on deer?

A friend of mine picked up one of these and loves it.  In 6.5 Creedmore.
http://www.tikka.fi/rifles/tikka-t3x/t3x-tac-a1

Wow, those do look like a over-charge.  Was the ammo you were going to fire getting rained on so that you might have put a wet case into the chamber?  This may have reduced the volume of the case which could cause an increase in pressure.  Although, as I write this I think of our mil guys swimming along with their rifles –  so I dunno.

I had an… Read more

Thanks for the update.  I'll be interested to hear if this fixes the problem.

Any new findings on this problem?

To better understand if it's the case sizing or the bullet seating try resizing a case and chambering it.  Does the bolt close without too much effort?

“It seems to tilt to much on the way out to the point it is above the rim on the bolt face and lets go.”

So back to just hooking the rim of a fired case into the bolt face.  Are you saying the extractor isn't applying any pressure to the side of the rim?

You might try removing the extractor to see if there's any crud preventing it from moving… Read more

The ejector spring is a good possibility – the extractor spring too. 

Can you push the ejector plunger done into the bolt face?

Can you move the extractor outward and feel some spring pressure?

Something else to try  —  what happens if you chamber a fired case and then open the bolt and pull it back quickly?

Is it possible the fired case is getting extracted and ejected but then it hits the scope and bounces back into the action?

Have you tried placing a cartridge case rim under the extractor and push it into place into the front of the bolt?  If you do that can you pull the case straight out or does the extractor hold onto it?

The hook part of the extractor looks like it might be too far forward but I don't know if it's suppose to look that way on this model?

From the picture the extractor looks okay as far as I can tell. 

Let's start from the beginning.  What problem are you having?

If you have time would you please post a picture of the extractor from the side.

I'm not familiar with the LSA 55.  Could you post a picture of the bolt face for us?

That's a nice looking buck ya got there!

Try the Federal Gold Metal Match .308 first in 168 gr and 175 gr.  If it works you can buy it for about $1 per round if you look around.

Nice looking rifle! 

If you don't mind experimenting you might try removing the riser that's on the stock and build up 1/2″ under it.

Very nice!  Have fun at the class.

Welcome to the forum.  You should be able to run a heavier bullet than the 140 gr.  When I had a 7mm Mag I was using a 160 gr Nosler. 

One of the popular bullet weights for the .308 is 175 grain.  For Elk you will want to limit your shot distance so that you have enough energy to get the job done.

If that's a wood stock that does seem really high.

The Accuracy International Chassis System says to torque to 6 N-m which is about 53 in-lb.  That's a solid piece of aluminum for that system.

Is it possible the case is hitting the windage turret and bouncing back into the port?

Which cartridge is this?

with a 42mm objective I would go with low rings.  Those are about 0.9″ high.  The rail will give you a little space between the action and the scope rings.

I've got a T3 Varmint in 22-250 and it's one of my favorite rifles.  It loves the Sierra 55 gr Blitzking with Varget powder.  It sports a Burris XTR-II scope on it.

If the new rifle comes with rings I would see if I could use those first.  As a next choice for hunting/target I would use the Warne rings as was suggested.  For the most rugged use I would go with a rail screwed down onto the receiver and rings that clamp to the rail and scope.

As for rifle hard case the Pelican is an excellent choice but if y… Read more

https://tikkashooters.com/public_html/gunsmithing/tikka-torque-settings/

That looks really nice!  Shoots good too.

That should do very well!  Very nice looking rifle.

You should be able to go long with that nice rig!  Let us know how she shoots when you can.