Question 1.  Are you shooting factory loads or hand loads?

Question 2.  If factory, are the cases new or previously fired?  I wasn't able to shoot PPU's .243 rounds in MY Tikka, probably because PPU appears to use previously fired cases and may not have sized them correctly.  Out of ten boxes, only a few rounds would chamber.

Question 3.  If hand… Read more

To TXDarren,

You might think I'm an idiot but I love Trump.  He's a business man and he knows how to get things done.  You won't see him take a back seat from his belief's.   

I have a tough time with this statement in light of the fact that Trump has a well deserved reputation for screwing people.  Trump U and allegations in the recent NYT piec… Read more

I should have noted earlier that I ran into something similar with both factory ammunition and once-fired brass bought from a commercial seller in a .243 and a .223.  My sense is Tikkas have little headspace.  I reload now so I can manage my way around the problem, but I had trouble with Aguila and Remington .223 (cheap ammo) where about half t… Read more

Thanks.  I figured someone else might have run across this problem.

I'll have to look into the metal magazines.

Turns out there was 2 ammunitions giving me the most problems, Hornady Match OTM W/C and Magtech ammo, since my last post I've been to the range twice shooting Federal power shok and Fusion with 0 problems, also shot Vital shok copper very accurate, I'm gonna stick with Federal copper for all my hunting needs

As far as I'm concerned, copper… Read more

I know I'm a little late  but here's my experience.

ADI shoots fine.

Aguila won't chamber in my rifle.

Remington didn't shoot well.

Fiocchi .223 with Hornady VMAX bullets is more expensive but it shot quite well.

I tried a bunch of factory ammo when I got the rifle but I now hand load two bullets:  55 grain BT-FMJs for plinking and Hornady 50 grain V… Read more

From what you have just posted above you have no idea about reloading .

I assume that was directed at me.  You might be right but some pointers might help me and the OP. 

Article on testing with mixed headstammps vs. Lake City Brass:  https://www.gunsamerica.com/blog/reloading-science-do-you-really-need-to-sort-your-brass/  Perhaps I should qua… Read more

I have a Tikka T3 in .223 for varmint shooting.  My groups are a little on the larger side (1-1.25″) but they're good enough for squirrels.

IMHO sub-MOA accuracy is a lot more important for competitive shooting than for varmints.  I also think shooter error is a bigger factor than whether or not you use a single headstamp, but it all depends on w… Read more

For Elk you will want to limit your shot distance so that you have enough energy to get the job done.

Lots of reasons to get close for elk (or any other critter).  Monolithic (copper) bullets need speed in order to open up.  Larger margin for shooter error.  Wind has smaller influence.

You can get away with slightly lighter monolithic bullets be… Read more

Budsgunshop.com might have some good deals.

Yesterday I put about 70 rounds through my Tikka T3 Lite in .223, 3-5 at a stretch.  Temperatures were in the low 60s.  After 5 rounds the barrel was just short of uncomfortably warm.  These rounds use 26 grains of powder, or around half the charge of a .270 round.  I'd wait 5 minutes for the barrel to cool off and then fire another group.  Ther… Read more

Hunting rifles, especially lightweight ones, are not designed to be constantly putting lead down the tube.  When I go to the range for practice, I'll bring a couple of rifles so I can shoot a few and then let the barrel cool.  I use a .223 for squirrels and I'll shoot five rounds, then let the barrel cool while I use a .22lr, then pick up the .… Read more

I have a T3 Lite in .243 and my rule is, no more than 3-5 shots before allowing the barrel to cool. 

I shoot a winchester 670 in 30-06 and while the recoil was problematic at first, I managed to tame it with practice and a recoil pad.  Don't give up just yet.

What's “acceptable”?  1 inch at 100, .5 inch at 100, …?

I had trouble for a long time wit a .30-06 (not a Tikka).  Installed a recoil pad to deal with flinching, installed a new trigger because the old one was very stiff, and everything else was the shooter, including a very dirty barrel and poor concentration.

I am glad it is the inexpensive ammo and not a super, super particular rifle.

IMO if the ammo works in other rifles, then the rifle is the problem, not the ammo.  PPU seems to use once-fired cases for its less expensive ammunition and I'm not sure it gets full length sized when it's reloaded.  tikka's seem to be fussy about case length.  Not an in… Read more

I don't own that caliber or model so these are shots in the dark.

Are you sure it's the rifle and not the shooter?  I have had that problem in the past.  How large are your groups at 200 yards?  If you're hunting, 3″ is all you need to kill the game you'd be shooting at that distance.  If you're competing, different story.

I hand load for a Tik… Read more

I had this problem with PPU ammo in .243.  Apparently Tikka chambers are cut pretty tight and I believe PPU uses once-fired cases for their budget ammunition. 

There's really nothing you can do.  I've had the same problem with once-fired .243 cases bought from a reputable dealer and .223 range pickup.  I have to full length resize any cases I wan… Read more

I was halfway through trying to develop a load for my .30-06 with H4350 (and learning about reloading at the same time) when I couldn't find any more locally or on line at something resembling a reasonable price.  Oh well, IMR4064 did the job and I can use the same powder for my .243.

Another anecdote with a different .30-06 and different components.  Bullet is Hornady 150 GMX, powder is IMR4064, brass is Remington once-fired, primers are CCI Large Rifle. Hornady tests with essentially the same rifle as mine but they use Hornady or Frontier cases and Winchester Large rifle primers.

Hornady says you can load to 55.6 grains and… Read more

I've killed caribou, kudu, oryx, zebra and wildebeest with Remington Core-Lokts out of a Winchester .30-06.  All are either big (kudu and oryx) or tough (zebra and wildebeest).  *I'd* probably use a heavier bullet for moose and elk if I was hunting them, but for everything else 150 grain Core-Lokts have been fine.  My good friend and hunting pa… Read more

Depends on what you plan to do with it.  A .243 would not be adequate for most of the larger plains game in Africa or elk, moose, mule deer and bear in the US.  For lighter game, it's fine.  I have one for coyotes and I'd use it on similarly sized predators anywhere.

For target shooting, probably depends on the distance but it's not much smaller th… Read more

Some of the reasons I purchased the t3 lite  the trigger was good, the stock was rigid,the action smooth,and an accurate barrel.I could have got another 700 rem and replaced the trigger and stock as usual butt that doubles the price right away doesn't make sense anymore.The only change on the tikka was a limbsaver recoil pad.They are good to go…

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I bench shoot and I shoot 1/2″ groups at 200 yrds. I just want to dress up my rifle

In THAT case…

It's not a waste of money if you want to dress up your rifle and you can afford it.  Just like it's not a waste of money to own rifles because you want them without necessarily planning to shoot them.  I wasn't trying to be a jerk and I probably s… Read more

You will have to play with setting depth…But this is what I normally do for my 223…

That pretty much did the trick for varmint rounds.  With 50 grain VMAX projectiles over 28 grains of Win 748 and an OAL of 2.265, 4 of 5 shots were touching and the fifth shot was displaced vertically by about 3/4 inch.  For the group of 4 that were touching, t… Read more

Why do you want to change out the factory stock?  Is your objective one hole groups or something close to that goal?  What distances do you shoot?  Are you planning to compete?  I think some more information would help others provide useful advice.

All of my shooting and reloading is centered on hunting.  If I can get one inch groups out of my .223… Read more

Thanks for that advice.  I have a Hornady headspace gauge but I've found it's very difficult to get accurate, consistent measurements. 

I load so they just fit the factory mag…another sub moa load for my rifles…

With 55 grain VMAX and 748, 24.5 grains was actually slightly better than 26 but I loaded them at 2.25.  Your results suggest it might be better to load them a little longer.  Sounds like the same holds true for the Hornady FMJs.

I've run into problems with used brass that hasn't been full-length sized in two different relatively recent Tikka T3s.  My .243 wouldn't chamber any of 200 rounds of Prvi Partizan .243 made with once-fired cases.  It wouldn't chamber Remington brass that had been fired once.  My .223 won't chamber one in three Aquila .223 FMJ rounds, which are al… Read more

I have no experience with copper rounds although I plan to start using them this fall with mule deer.  Everything I've read suggests they are better than lead if you're within about 300 yards.  Too far and they'll be too slow to open up properly.  You can use a lighter weight bullet (150 grain ought to be GTG for elk) for a slightly flatter tr… Read more

That's basic reloading practice , if it's been fire formed in another rifle to resize the brass

True, but lots of newbies like me will buy factory ammunition without thinking about whether the cases it was made from are new or used, and they will expect the stuff to work.

The story about the .243 cases is sad and stupid in more ways than one.

I shot both a kudu and an oryx with 150 grain Core Lokts out of a .30-06.  The good news was, they both died close to where I shot them.  The bad news is, each one took three rounds, one of which was in the heart.

I suggest you use a 180 grain round.

Completely off-topic but where in Canada are you and what's the season like for coyotes (or is there a season?).

Something that would be nice to have is a bipod.  Harris is a good choice or if you have some extra $$ then go with an Atlas.

I don't own a bipod but my rifles are mostly for hunting and unless I'm shooting from a bench, I'm shooting prone, from sticks, or more recently from a tripod.  If you only shoot prone or shoot targets from a bench, a b… Read more

You want the scope as close to the top of the receiver as possible, which argues for smaller tubes and no rail.  If you're hunting with your '06, a scope with a magnification range of 2.5-8 or 9 power is very adequate and these can be had in tube sizes less than 40 MM.  You might try the factory rings (I assume they still ship with the new T3x r… Read more

Would you be willing to tell us why?

Some folks dislike the T3's aluminum scope rings.  I used them on a .243 and had no problem.  You can find aftermarket rings made specifically for Tikkas from Warne that use the dovetail on top of the receiver.  Just make sure you put the correct ring in front and have the lug fit into the hole.

I believe the only change to the receiver was to in… Read more

Is the case shoulder getting pushed back far enough?

It wasn't, because I didn't set the die up properly.  All it took was another quarter turn of the die in the press.  I now have more .243 cases than I'll use in the next three lifetimes.

I know of someone who had a Tikka in 7mm-08 and claimed he had zero problems with the factory rings.  I have Tikkas in .243 and .223 and so far my accuracy problems are all with the shooter, not the rings.  with heavier calibers, it might be a different story.

My suggestion:  try the factory rings after making sure they're installed and torqued co…

I also live in California and also live a ways from the nearest store.  PM me when you have a moment and I'll tell you how I've dealt with the problem. 

Well, don't keep us in suspense.  What caliber did the two of you choose?

I read lots of griping about the polycarbonate magazines but I view them as an advantage.  Metal mags can bend if they're abused, in which case I'd imagine they become useless.  Polycarbonate isn't unbreakable, but it is very tough.

If my trigger guards and bolt shrouds ever break, I'll just replace them. 

My big game rifle is a 40 year old Wi… Read more

Apparently the Compact does not come in stainless steel but the Lite does.  Here's the spec sheet:  http://cdn1.tikka.fi/sites/default/files/technicalspecs_t3x_lite_stainless_0.pdf.  Without reading the whole thing in detail, it looks like you have a choice of 20 or 22 inch barrels and lots of caliber choices.

I have one in .223 and one in .243 an… Read more

8 months later…

37, 38.5 and 40.5 grain loads of IMR 4064 under Nosler 55 grain lead-free ballistic tips produce the best results.  Velocities are roughly 300 FPS lower than test results on the Hogdon site but I loaded these at 2.65 (.06 shorter than Hogdon) and I'm using a shorter barrel (20 vs. 24).  Next step is to play with the OAL a bit to s… Read more

I'm not dissing Tikkas generally because I own a pair and like them, but the A1 seems like a nice range toy, or perhaps the better term is, “eye candy”.  At 2500 Euros, it's a bit like selling women handbags made by Coach that are prized for the brand rather than for their functionality.  Sako is making a lot of money on what is essentially a b… Read more

I'm afraid I got a little lost with the length of your post.  I'm also no firearms expert but I'll take a stab at providing some feedback.

If you think the safety is questionable, whether it's supposed to be that way or not, then it's probably not safe. 

I'm not aware that Tikkas are particularly finicky about the ammo they shoot.  Mine do well en… Read more

I have two (.243 and .223) and would consider buying others (maybe a .308 someday) because I like the way they're priced and I like the way they shoot.  Fan though I am, I still get a chuckle out of posts like this both here and on other forums.  It seems like firearms are like fashion – once people get attached to a brand there's no tearing t… Read more

Not that I'm anything resembling an expert when it comes to firearms but I just can't figure out what purpose is served by the break-in procedure.  I haven't “broken in” my T3 in .243 and I don't plan to “break in” the .223 that I'm picking up next week. 

Here's my $.02.

Get either the Leupold or one of the higher end Vortex scopes.  I had an inexpensive Bushnell mounted on a .30-06 fail me while on an elk hunt.  Had it not been for the fact that a very good, very generous long-time friend loaned me his .300 Win Mag, my hunt would have been over.

Maybe the Crossfire is up to the recoil of your r… Read more

I have a T3 Lite in .243 and really like it.  My hunting partners all have rifles of various makes in .300 WM and I've been thinking about getting one, but I don't want to deal with a muzzle break and I'd prefer to stick with a Tikka.  Anyone know how the heavier Tikkas (Hunter models) in .243 compare with respect to felt recoil?

You can spend a lot of money trying to shave 1/2 pound.
Personally, speaking as an aging hunter that has hunted a lot of deer, elk, and pronghorn over the years, I would focus on getting myself in top condition and not worry much about a few ounces of rifle. But then again, I realize this is not a fitness forum but a Tikka forum. The limbsaver…

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