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New CO elk hunter (age 42) with T3X SS Superlite 30-06 questions
After tons of research, I just ordered my first hunting rifle at age 42, a Tikka Superlite in 30-06 to take my 12 year old son pronghorn, deer and elk hunting this fall in CO. He has a 243 and 7mm-08 and I needed a dad gun. Elk tags are late rifle and we are planning on doing a lot of backcountry hiking.
I am looking for ammunition recommendations and ways to make this rig lighter.
I have both a Vortex Viper HS 4-16 x 44 scope (18.4 oz) and Cabelas Instinct Euro 3-9 x 40 scope (15.1 oz) to try out as well as talley and vortex rings accordingly. I also ordered a yodave spring and am about to order some goodies from MT: metal bottom, bolt shroud, screws and limbsaver pad.
1. Before I do, should I order the 20 MOA or 0 MOA MT piccatinny rail for either of those scopes? Which of those two would you use and why?
2. Also, I am looking to get the barrel threaded for a muzzle brake so my son is comfortable shooting it. Any recommendations in stainless?
3. Planning on fluting the bolt after this season. Any other mods to lighten it up? I am not using a bipod but carrying hiking sticks and a sling and also have Primos Gen 2 tirgger sticks to try out.
4. Finally, I ordered Remington Core Lokt in several weights, Sako 150gr and 180gr superhammer heads, and 125gr and 180gr Hornady SSTs for comparisons. What factory loads work have you enjoyed best in 30-06 with your Tikka's?Appreciate the knowledge here.
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11 Replies
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Congrats on your new hunting rifle! I have taken a few antelope but yet to take an elk. I am also running a Vortex Viper (same as yours). Just picked up the Vortex today.
As far as cutting some weight off your rig, I'm not sure. It's pretty reasonable for the weight as is. I spent 3 days climbing cliffs on an Aoudad hunt with my Remington 5R Milspec 308 with a bull barrel. That was heavy enough to motivate me to pick up a lighter Tikka!
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My advice is probably worth less than you're paying for it, especially since my large game rifle is an older Winchester 670 in .30-06.
First, lighter gun = greater felt recoil. I have a T3 in .243 that is noticeably lighter than the .30-06 and it's fine, but I'm a bit wary of shooting a T3 in any .308 caliber.
Second, the T3X recoil pad is supposed to be better than the older T3 recoil pads. Have your son wear a shooting pad under his jacket and I think he'll be fine.
Third, I use Remington Core Lokt Express ammunition and it has worked very well for me. I think I'd use 180 grain ammunition in a .30-06 for elk unless the shooter is exceptionally good.
Fourth, from what I've read and been told (rather than what I know), I think your son's 7mm is the better choice for elk than his .243. I regard a .243 as a small deer/antelope/coyote gun. Elk have been taken with lots of different calibers but it is always better to be “over-gunned” rather than “under-gunned” as I learned while watching a good friend shoot a kudu in Africa with a .257 Roberts that we then had to find…in the dark.
Last thing. I prefer to get close. I'm very confident of my ability to hit the kill zone at 100 yards and less confident as the distance approaches 200. I'd rather let one that's beyond my comfort zone get away than have to chase it down (been there, done that once for me and once for a friend, long story).
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Thank you for the input. We have a vest with a shoulder pad that should help with prone.
I have put a few rounds through the T3X 30-06 from Hornady low recoil to Sako 180 and lots in between. Kick is not too bad after 2 boxes. I do not think I will change the recoil pad or muzzle brake it. [img]https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0/?ui=2&ik=6b7446ac27&view=fimg&th=157b9de661597d0a&attid=0.5&disp=inline&safe=1&attbid=ANGjdJ99BNMGD-tAhIETrRR7YOVUd0NN9RH2Q-U8FV-u7hqt8R21lxiQKgBVOSbLBzGDzsk5Zc4_KWjJT-STL9XdcIsjR-EfmKrdn_K_nXBBtrdtyh8cDWr8CPiWD5Y&ats=1476292151714&rm=157b9de661597d0a&zw&sz=w1280-h928[/img]
In other news, my son bagged his first pronghorn from 205 yards last week with his 7-08! Exciting day for dad. After three days and 15 miles he wants to trade in for a lighter Tikka!! Ha.
I added the Mountain Tactical bottom metal trigger guard, Mountain Tactical 0 MOA stainless look rail, Lumley Arms titanium bolt handle and carbon fiber knob and yodave spring. I an all set now until fluting the bolt after the season.
Its under 7.5 lbs [img]https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0/?ui=2&ik=6b7446ac27&view=fimg&th=157b9de661597d0a&attid=0.1&disp=inline&safe=1&attbid=ANGjdJ8yMr11W9etPZN9SFsWm9KqC1eTS-tlgXavyVxszosCexCXgoj6XQqH0h0kJZkgJqsJqP1u1CIOW9Dx75wL3QTLNIVC6Bpsd4nHJpkQmf_c4kiP5tNO5eFJuZw&ats=1476292151713&rm=157b9de661597d0a&zw&sz=w1280-h928[/img] -
You can spend a lot of money trying to shave 1/2 pound.
Personally, speaking as an aging hunter that has hunted a lot of deer, elk, and pronghorn over the years, I would focus on getting myself in top condition and not worry much about a few ounces of rifle. But then again, I realize this is not a fitness forum but a Tikka forum. The limbsaver recoil pad is real nice. -
If you want a brake go with a Terminator T2 or T3. They are made from titanium and reduce recoil extremely well.
Fluting the bolt will save an ounce or two and is poor return for the cost, but if you want to do it, go with Long Rifles Inc as their work is superb and it costs only $45:
For ammo, I used Hornady 178 grain A-Max home loads when I had a .30-06. I prefer heavier projectiles in that chambering as they hit hard and have better BC.
I'd go with the 20 MOA rail as there are no negatives to doing so, but it gives you additional adjustment if you want to shoot at longer range.
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Here's the link to the Terminator brakes:
http://www.shoot-long.com/products/long-range-accessories/terminator-muzzle-brakes/
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You can spend a lot of money trying to shave 1/2 pound.
Personally, speaking as an aging hunter that has hunted a lot of deer, elk, and pronghorn over the years, I would focus on getting myself in top condition and not worry much about a few ounces of rifle. But then again, I realize this is not a fitness forum but a Tikka forum. The limbsaver recoil pad is real nice.As an aging hunter that has not hunted all that much, I would agree with all of your points. One other thing that might help is a good sling that doesn't slip as you walk. I have Ultimate Rifle http://specialtyoutdoorproducts.net/RifleSlings_Shotguns_Pinckney_MI.html slings on all of my rifles.
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Thank you for the input. I will flute bolt with LRI in off season and check out those Terminator brakes.
Yeah being in shape is important but a guy has to dream of hunting rifles stuck at a desk job all day.
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As an aging hunter that has not hunted all that much, I would agree with all of your points. One other thing that might help is a good sling that doesn't slip as you walk. I have Ultimate Rifle http://specialtyoutdoorproducts.net/RifleSlings_Shotguns_Pinckney_MI.html slings on all of my rifles.
Thank you for sharing this link…awesome sling!!!
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For elk I would use the 180 gr Hornady light mag or superformance (dating myself here light mag may not be avail). I bought a case of the light mags and with the Tikka 1:11 twist they shoot just under 1 moa
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I'm sure when he pulls the trigger on an elk, he won't feel any recoil. I know I didn't on my T3 Lite 300Win. The elk sure felt it though…..
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