Member yukonal
MemberForum Replies Created
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$450 for the rifle. The pic rail is worth $20.
Steel recoil lug, proper torque on the action screws, and see how it shoots before you do anything else.
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Nice job toughing it out, and nailing a beauty!
300WM packs a punch.
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Well I ended up backing the fl size die back some so it doesn't bump the shoulder and now it's better and I'm able to get 2.282 with 55gr amax. The only thing I'm worried about is the neck is only getting halfway resized which might mess with my neck tension.
This makes no sense to me, but what should I, a class 06 ammo manufacturer know, anyhow? 8) 8)
I have no clue either. I have a tikka in 7mm-08 and the cases will do the same thing. When I set my FL size die I usually always turn it in until it touches the ram then back it out about 1.5 turns or the bolt will be hard to close. I'm not really sure why this is.
Don't back it off after the shellholder touches the bottom of the die.
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Talley LW's will be perfect for your rifle. Lows will give you room to spare.
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It must be just the power of the ejector plunger bashing the case mouth against the inside of the action as it clears the chamber. I would not be worried about it , your reloading dies will correct it anyway.
Dan hit the nail…
It's normal, don't worry about it. You'll need to keep the expander button installed in your reloading sizing die.
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I wouldn't go over 26″.
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You can carefully cut the extra off while it's still on the rifle, with a hacksaw. File sharp edges and finish the shiny area with Birchwood Casey paint pen, used for common gunsmithing.
Like Dog, I've done several…while on the rifle.
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I have a custom made wrench that EXACTLY fits over the action, with a 2' handle…all steel.
Tighten the barrel down in a barrel vise, put the wrench on…and give it one good pop. Saves cutting and ruining the barrel, and you can then sell it for a few bucks.
I've popped 8 barrels off, no sweat.
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Check with Jason, here at tikkashooters. He had a couple for sale.
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Filing the adjustment screw accomplishes the same thing as filing the larger screw.
No it doesn't. Do I have to explain that too?
Oh forget it…go do your own thing. Good luck.
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If you have backed out the screw that controls the spring tension as far as you can and the trigger still is not as light as you want, then you can file a bit off the trigger assembly screw that stops the spring screw.
This is not a good idea unless you really know your stuff.
Here it is Walter, now you can relax.
BUT, I file the spring screw. Just file the outside edge, or the “round” corner, all the way around the top. Don't file it flat across the top, where the Allen wrench goes.
Also, after the screw hits the stop, you can reef on it and get another 1/8 to 1/4 turn. This has gained me 1/4# on a couple factory triggers. You can try this before filing.
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If the Ernie spring doesn't help you…I may consider going over it again. Liability issues…if you know what I mean.
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The o ring up front where the guide goes into the chamber, keeps the cleaning solvent from coming back into the action. I've used a dozen different ones in the last 30 years, and none of them DIDN'T have an o ring up front.
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I do have one complaint about my new Tikka. With the trigger adjustment screw dialed all the way out, I'm getting an unacceptable 3.5# trigger pull, as measured by my RCBS Premium Trigger Pull Gauge.
Any thoughts/suggestions? The advertising says it's adjustable from 2# to 4#.
I've posted several times on this forum on how to get the pull weight down. Try a search?
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I set all mine to 1-1/2# to 1-3/4#.
