Member yukonal
MemberForum Replies Created
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Out of all the rifles I've bedded with 10110, I doubt I've ever had the same mix ratio. I measure with a couple tablespoons, and eyeball it. But then, I've mixed alot of Bondo in my day. They've all turned out perfect.
I guess the weighing it on a scale is a good idea… ::)
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😉
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Sorry Eric, but there's only one easy way…
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If you look at the home page, then go to recent articles, and find my “Gun Of The Month”, The Beast, you'll see my slabbed mini-magnum muscle brake on the end of a 24″ #6 Kreiger.
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I love the Muscle Brake. Good choice.
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Not necessarily in that order, but, yep. 😉
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Sorry Larkin, I'm gonna throw the bullship flag on that one.
Take your Tier One rings, install them on your favorite action, and I'll put a lapping bar in them and start lapping…and show you how uneven they mate up.
Doesn't matter if it's the finish applied, the rings (if a 1 piece), the rings if two piece, or perfect rings fitting in screw holes that aren't aligned perfectly front to back when drilled into the top of the reciever…ALL rings need to be lapped to achieve perfect fit with the scope.
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Might be a bolt handle issue. Put the original handle back in and see what happens. The new trigger spring shouldn't be an issue.
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I use 25in-lbs (max) with a drip of Blue Loctite.
There it is.
And I lap every set of rings that go on my scopes. 75 to 80 percent on my hunting rifles, 100% on my competition rifles. Even NF rings need it.
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Eric, if your bolt holes are touching, you can drill them out and install pillars. Or you can drill them out oversize, and use Devcon as the pillars. When you snug up the action, the action screws will self center in the oversize holes you drilled. You'll have to use release agent on both the action screws AND the action…as the Devcon will squeeze all over. After it's all set up, and you've taken it apart, you can drill the holes out (that you just built with Devcon), with one size bigger bit…to give you a touch of clearance for the action screws.
As far as bedding the entire stock, with the factory lug, in one step…well, best of luck. The area between the top of the lug and the slot in the action, fill up with mud before the front of the barrel and the tang hit their elevations. Then you don't have contact with the top of the lug and the slot. That's why I bed a factory lug stock/action in 3 steps.
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you must full lenght size new brass initially to make sure it will chamber.
Do full case prep on all new brass just so you know what you have. And keep the neck expander button in to straighten any uneven necks.
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I don't have the link, but YukonAl has some good pictures regarding bedding on this forum.
For those that know, is bedding the lug on a tikka sufficient or should we be bedding the lug and tang?
I always bed from(and including) the rear tang to the front of the action. And everything in between. The back of the rear tang stays un-touched, to keep the original elevation, but everything else gets opened up .040″ and bedded with 10110.
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Leave the slot.
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Now for a controversial topic. Glass bedding and pillar bedding.
Extremely mixed reviews on the subject.And next, bedding the action.
Can it be done? How can it be done?.
I've pillar and glass bedded every one of mine. If you do a search, you'll see a few pics I've posted.
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I've used a dremel with the small wire wheel.
