Forums › Forums › General Discussion › Lets talk about the Tikka recoil lugs for a minute.
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Lets talk about the Tikka recoil lugs for a minute.
Posted by TorontoAlex on April 10, 2015 at 6:59 pmIt's clear these lugs were meant to have some play. Mine has .010 play which causes visible wiggle. Tolerance for thermal expansion on the metal would not account for this. So what gives? Why did they put a loose lug in there? Is it not bad to have loose parts on a rifle?
MTGunner replied 6 months, 1 week ago 11 Members · 23 Replies -
23 Replies
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Lets talk about the Tikka recoil lugs for a minute.
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They put those lugs in there to give us the opportunity to start tikkashooters.com & make them for you!
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I would love Tikkas to come with a more positive recoil lug, namely something like yukonal's construct. I have to say tho that these rifles shoot remarkably well with the set up as-is. Get a torque wrench and keep things snugged up consistent and you will be impressed.
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They put those lugs in there to give us the opportunity to start tikkashooters.com & make them for you!
;D ;D ;D
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The lug should be tight in the stock, but have a bit of play in the recess in the action. It's only the front face of the recoil lug that needs to be touching the action in recoil. It's a good system and it works well, but a steel lug will prevent the indentation that can occur with the factory lugs.
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I sanded the inside of my barrel channel to better free float my barrel, and while re-finishing it with polyurethane, I made sure to get some in the recoil lug channel, and inserted the lug in there to squeeze out the excess (and washed the lug after of course). Now it fits very snug. I'm hoping all this will solve my accuracy problem with the 270win.
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I hope it works, but I fear it may crack and break up over time. Devon or Marinetex are better options for bedding rifles, lugs etc.
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I just noticed your reply J.
In your previous post you said it should be tight in the stock. I made i tight, but now you are saying it will crack? Then should it have been left loose in the stock?
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He's referring to your choice of material used to bed the lug…polyurethane is brittle when dry and has no tensile strength compared to proper bedding materials. It should / will fracture quite easily under recoil if used on the lug.
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I think Devcon plasteel or perhaps acraglas gel are better products for bedding. I am currently trying to bed a B-mag in a Boyd's stock and the woodwork part is the hardesest for me. I'm using chalk line dust to try to see where the action is rubbing and it's not clear. I think I need a better bit for my Dremel. I've been using a slender carbide bit but finding the pinch points is tough.
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The lug should be tight in the stock, and ideally bedded in, but should have some play in the recess on the bottom of the action. Devcon 10110 or Nathan Foster's bedding kit from terminalballisticsresearch will do well.
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Ok I see what you guys mean. I just coated the inside of the recess on the stock with some poly. We are talking .005″ thick coats. I didn't bed anything really.
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This would be a great time for YukonAl to chime in if you can friend. I have a Boyds stock that fits “almost” the holes for the action screws don't line up just right and the wood drags on parts i have trouble identifying. the chalk doesn't give me the best info. so… for those of us that don't have an end mill, could you give us tips on using a dremel tool to relieve the pinch points? I think i understand the process but the execution leaves me a bit in the dark. One tip or idea i have is to mix the devcon 10110 in a zip lock freezer bag and cut the tip and use like a pastry piping bag to place it.
I look forward to hearing any advice!
-Eric -
I bedded a T3 in a Boyd's stock last year. Use the Dremel to take 60 thou depth off the stock from an inch in front of the lug, all around the lug, through the side walls to the tang. It's very important to leave a section at the rear of the tang as your rear height reference. Wrap electrical tape round the barrel to support the barrel and action at the right height before you start and that will be your front height reference. Use modeling clay to block the mag well, set a dam in the barrel channel to hold the Devcon in the bedding area, and tape the stock to prevent overspill sticking to it. Now use Kiwi neutral shoe polish everywhere you don't want bedding to stick – barrel, action, top of modeling clay. I use 6mm bolts with the heads cut off to align the action in the stock. Wrap these with masking tape so they just fit in the action screw holes in the stock and leave a quarter of an inch untaped to screw them into the action. Use Kiwi on these screws and the screw holes. Smear Devcon 10110 into the bedding area then set the action in and squeeze it down gently to your height reference points. You should get squeze out along all of the area. Use tape or bungees to secure the action in place, but not too much or you will stress the action. Clean any squeeze out off with q tips and leave it for at least a day. Break it out and clean up the top of the stock and the mag well area with Dremel and sand paper.
I keep saying this, but the best advice is to watch Nathan Foster's vids on YOuTube or his Terminal Ballistics Research website in New Zealand. All you need to know is there. Follow his advice and you cannot go wrong.
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Excellent instructions J….well written.
Just an added tip….after Devcon starts to setup and is no longer squeezing out turn the rifle upside down. This will eliminate any air bubbles at the surface that would normally ruin a perfect bedding job….it will look perfect. Its makes the difference of it looking like a pro or an amateur did the job.
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