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Hey Eric,

My personal preference is 2nd FP for precision range shooting, and a FFP for hunting.
I shoot pretty well with either scope but a 2nd FP scope with a thin reticle line seems to be the winner when target shooting.  I bought a Vortex Viper as a 2nd scope (6.5 -20) and love it, much cheaper then the HSLR FFP  I have on my hunting rifle but same great glass.  Its my new go to for target shooting and I've shot it out to 1000yrds with no problems.
http://www.vortexoptics.com/product/vortex-viper-6-5-20×50-pa-riflescope-dead-hold-bdc-reticle/reticle

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What province you in?

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Check out this thread from another forum to give you some options on all “Canadian” made barrels…
http://www.outdoorsmenforum.ca/showthread.php?t=189361

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Nice looking Deer.

What ranges were the shots?

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Guys will have their favourites, Here's mine for both 8 & 10 twist barrels.

Try either of these bullets with Varget.  I've loaded these with Win748, and also CFE223… Varget out performed both for a stable load in all shooting conditions.  CFE223 provided the best velocity and was also very accurate but it was the worst for being temp stable. 

Nosler 60gr Spitzer – 25-25.5gr Varget
Hornady 53gr Vmax – 25-26gr Varget

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Lol…See what happens when you are nice and try to help someone…

On serious note, Al's advice is sound and works if you have any mechanical ability and common sense!
I've setup 2 of my guns using his advice on this topic.  No complaints.

My triggers are set at approximate 2lbs, after shooting a crisp 2lb trigger why anyone would want to go lower is beyond me.  Especially if you plan on carrying the gun in a hunting scenario.  NOT SAFE, but thats just my opinion.

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I contacted Tactical Ordinance to see if he was interested in bedding my gun but he doesn't do hunting rifles, just tacticool stuff. Do you know anyone else who might be able to bed my rifle in the GTA?

Thats too bad, I also thought they do it.  Casey is a top notch gunsmith, he's worked on a couple of my guns.  There aren't many people on TO that actually do it…I'll ask around.

I've done my own gun, its not a tough process but its still not easy to get it perfect.

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LOL…you are not the first person to get excited over the plastic insert screws!
J…just gave you good instructions.  They do remove quite easily.

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I'm patiently waiting for this as well…I'm sure it will be worth the wait.
Everything from MT is top notch!  Glad to hear business is great.

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Have not used them but you can have good success loading Hornady 75gr HP and Lapua 77gr to max mag length….

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If it was my gun….

Considering the issues, I would try returning the gun…if thats not possible I would bed the action and recoil lug in another stock. 

I still think its worth trying another stock and recoil lug.  Like I said before, I can help you with that if you are in the Toronto area.  We can bolt up my 300wsm factory stock and shoot it to see what it does.
Let me know if i can help.

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I have not done it personally “yet”…by I hear guys are just changing out the bolt stop for a long action and buying a long action mag – Beretta part# S5850373…http://www.berettausa.com/en-us/tikka-t3-flush-magazines-caliber-see-details/s5850373/

The feed lips on the mag need some minor sanding to make it cycle flawlessly with the slightly larger diameter of the WSM cartridge, but it does work.

You can modify the existing mag by removing and setting the wall back further but you risk damaging the mag and even if done well there is still potential it could break or fail in the field.

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Only 3 left now!  I just ordered one, looks like a decent case.
I've been trying to get one wit a T3 logo on it for awhile.

Thanks for posting the link.

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Can you confirm:

#1 – Sloppy fit when inserting lug into the slot in the stock…lug is moving in the stock.

#2 – Sloppy fit when you put the action on the stock, Lug is secure in the stock but and there is some forward and back movement if you rock/slide the action…

………………………………….

If its #2….all Tikka's are like this, the lugs are smaller than the machined groove in the action so you can actually pull them apart and reassemble, it will never be an exact or pressed fit unless its a custom build.  You need a couple ++ thousands of an inch tolerance to be able to work on the gun.

See attached measurements and pictures taken from 2 of my T3 guns…
Keep in mind, anyone can have a different result by just varying the pressure they put on their measuring device, an inside measurement is the toughest to take (recoil slot), so you need good technique and sense when taking these.

1st – Recoil Slot 308 T3 Battue = .2400
2nd – Recoil Slot  308 T3 CTR = .2400
3rd – Factory aluminum lug from my Battue = .234
4th – MT lug = .238 (FYI – this is exactly .002 tolerance they say they machine all their lugs from factory Recoil Slot, if you factor in my measurements)…Mine is machined smaller then the .240 you have stated above, not sure why there is a difference there…  I also measured my Lumley lug and it is also .238 (same as yours)….no measurable difference between MT and Lumley lug

Like I said before in other post….I have not gained any measurable increase in range accuracy by replacing the factory lugs in all of my reloading for 5 of my Tikka rifles.  Its been a cosmetic and piece of mind decision only on my .30 cal guns that seem to leave an action impression on the factory aluminum lugs.

I DO NOT think the Lug is your issue with your gun, the measurements you mention are within spec of my guns….have you tried or made sure the barrel its free floated all the way back to the action…just with sand paper (see picture 5 of stock sanded near action). Just enough to have clearance to slide paper right to the action.  These Lite barrels are noodles when firing big rounds with a lot of powder, any part of the barrel touching the stock when it heats up can open your groups up by “inches” depending on the load.  Its worth a try, it did wonders for my 300wsm.

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You will lose too much on the chop to get the required diameter for the 5/8 thread…I went through this with my 300wsm T3 Lite….9/16-24 thread is the only way it can be done to keep close to stock barrel length.