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Sorry OP…I thought you were having issues with fit to the action, not the stock.
I removed my previous post.You could always swap out the stock for another factory stock with a better fitting lug and see if that makes a difference. I could help you out with that if you want to try it…
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You still having issues with the gun? Nothings changed?
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You will need a 9/16 – 24 thread…
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Limbsaver recoil pad and a “good” muzzle brake on my 300wsm T3 tamed it down to a 223 kick….
I say “good” brake because some manufacturers have actually designed brakes with science and testing, not just CNCing what looks cool… -
Great points by both guys above…reloading is reloading, the rifle will tell you what it likes.
I reload and shoot 4 different Tikka rifles on a regular basis (300wsm, 30-06, 308, 223)…all 4 rifles are T3's…all 4 rifles have a sweet spot at approximate .040 – .050 off the lands…I've experienced the same thing Larkin mentioned above, close / touching the lands did not work in any of my 4 test guns. I hunt with all calibers so I never jam bullets and always look for the magic number at least .030+ off the lands for a hunting round used everyday in the field.
You will need to load beyond Sami spec length for the Nosler 142 Accubond LR…it has a long ogive so its likes to be seated out there, I load this same bullet in 190gr for my 300wsm. I normally load to max mag length and start from there with various powder charges if the gun will cycle the round with no markings from touching the lands.
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The “short” magnum case design won't give you the same powder burn issues as a long action, nothing you can't overcome. And a 270wsm with a short 16″-18″ barrel will still outshine any 308 or 7mm-08 pushing similar weight bullets.
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Look at the IMR 4166 as an alternative to varget
Eric, You got any range reports with your load yet?
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I would install a brake if you are chopping the barrel…it will help a lot and with the recoil but mostly the barrel jump during recoil.
If you are putting this much effort into the gun I highly recommend this muzzle break. There is nothing like it available anywhere that actually performs…
http://www.gunsmith.co.nz/muzzlebrakes.html#quatromax
Its a radial brake design so its easy to install and remove, does not need the indexing like side ported brakes after its fitted to your rifle. And it will increase the guns, or “your” shooting accuracy. Just order it in the thread you want. I think mine is installed with a 9/16-24 thread (its on a sporter barrel) but you should be able to get away with a 5/8-24, but check with your gunsmith when you review the barrel chop.Don't think about the price…you will not be disappointed…it out performs any muzzle brake I have tried on my 300wsm…honestly my 300 kicks like a 223…I'm not lying or exaggerating when I say this. Guys at the range cannot believe it…this brake + LimbSaver butt pad as literally taken away 75% of the original recoil. Its my favourite gun to shoot and its my go to hunting rifle for everything. My 308 CTR with a Vais brake kicks wayyyyy more!
I hope you continue with the build, I think a short 270wsm muzzle braked would be an awesome bush gun and highly accurate with the shorter barrel. Keep us up to date and shoot me a PM anytime if you have questions.
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My best guess… is you would lose about 35-40fps for every inch…that would translate to a difference of 2-3″ lower POI drop @ 300 shooting the same 130 bullet compared to your 24″ barrel.
3 charts attached show velocity changes / drop from a 24″ barrel, 18″ and 16″barrel chop…provided your current 24″ barrel can shoot Hornady SST 130gr bullets at factory test speeds of 3200fps…
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LOL….thats why I mentioned the Bipod in previous post.
Have you shot it yet? -
Ur fine, the receiver will take the torque but you may have compressed the stock.
Groups will quickly tell if you have damaged the stock. -
Nice gun,…I shoot the same one in stainless with the exact scope. Great combo.
hows the bipod? -
Did you by chance torque the bolt handle while in the locked position on a tree or something…applying more force then normal and not noticing it?
I've had the bolt opening issue while pushing Deer several times, it would catch on branches and fall open. Its very annoying to say the least. I was doing the same as you, push the safety on and it seems to cure the problem but I did notice on several occasions that I would catch the bolt on tree and apply a lot of pressure on it and it would move slightly and stick, this is a bigger issue if you have an after market bolt handle like me thats straight and not swept. I've stopped doing this because I was afraid I would actually fall or slip and catch the bolt and damage the safety assembly on the gun. Ive started or try to get in the habit of not locking the safety and holding the gun covering or protecting the bolt as I push through brush. Annoying that you need to be constantly mindful of it but i would not trade the gun for anything.
I've never heard of anyone other then you having an actual failure like this in the field, but I've often thought that it could happen to me and I need to be more mindful of what I'm pushing through and how I protect my rifle. I agree that it is a design flaw in the gun, its evident to anyone who pushes through brush on a hunt.
The bolt does catch and open quite easily, and locking it can cause a major failure as you experienced.
I find the safety to be the only issue I really have with Tikka's in general.Report back and let us know what they say, would be interesting to see Tikka's take on this…
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This is a very rare find and limited numbers in North America…guys have been looking for the exact same gun in right or left hand…I have not heard of anyone having any success.
There was a limited number sent to the US and Canada with no repeat shipment once they were sold out. Very lucky if you have this gun. Its one of the nicest factory packages out there!
It is however readily available to be shipped in from overseas if you can swing the price. Not sure about your US import laws on firearms though…
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Got ur email…I'll forward some info this week when I go through my data book. Traveling till the middle of the week.
