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This is the stock I've been waiting for!!!  I hope they come out with a “hybrid” configuration but I'll be buying one of these in the next couple of months…These guys really know what they are doing and the price is very reasonable compared to the wood models.

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I installed a Vais brake on my CTR, some minor gunsmith work but its turned out great.  I'll update with a picture later.  Its works very well and turns the gun into recoiling 223-243 range.  Completely reduced barrel jump I was experiencing with the rifle straight out of the box.

I would like to try SureFire's “ProComp 762” on my CTR at some point.  Probably the best designed functional brake in its price range. It should screw right on with a crush washer / shim…
http://www.surefire.com/tactical-equipment/suppressor-adapters/procomp-muzzle-brakes.html

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Thats a beauty brother…great rack!  Well done.

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With all the shooting I do with my Tikka Varmint (8 twist)…the slower speeds from 2900-3200 seem to be the sweet spot for the best shooting factory ammo.  If you experiment with various bullet weights in this FPS range you should find a really good shooter. 

Hornady's 53gr Amax won't shot that will in a 8 twist barrel, better suited for 10+ twist from my test with it.
That being said I have shot some good groups but nothing consistent, they seem to like a slower speed out of a 8 twist barrel…(if you hand load they are a dream to shoot around 3100-3200fps).  I think my barrel shots the factory rounds at 3350-3400 but it does not hold groups well.  If you slow them down they are deadly accurate.

Factory Ammo that shots well in my Tikka 223 (8 twist)

Hornady's 55gr Vmax shots exceptionally well in every 8 twist I've shot.

Nosler Match Grade Ammunition 60 Grain Ballistic Tip shoots amazing.

***Try Nosler 77gr Custom Competition shoots very very well!***…I've shot 1/4″ groups at 200yrds with this ammo, and its seems to shoot consistent 1/2moa groups from box to box.

Eric's suggestion on Black Hills 77gr is also an excellent choice.  They should perform equal to the Nosler 77gr.

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Not a 260…but,

My 308 CTR shoots just as good as any 308 Sporter I've had the chance to shoot.  When comparing the 2 rifles, shooter experience and custom loads would make the most difference between the two.

I would think anyone shooting either rifle in 260 would agree that both rifles have the ability to shoot equally well.  Its really up to the shooter & rifle tuning.

You mentioned the CTR is already in a chassis system…which one?

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I shoot alot of precision shooting at 100-200 testing different loads for different rifles and I've never found a “Quick” release ring or mount yet that will hold an exact true exact zero if you remove and remount….so I've stick with permanent mounts.  I really like the PRW rings, its a great value for a steel ring.  BUT, the only issue with them,… is you can over torque very easily and damage the compression plate that snugs up against the rail.  The steel is soft and will bend or crack if you don't use a torque wrench to proper specs…you cannot go by feel and free tighten with these rings.

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You can use low rings but you will most likely have to cut back the rail to the receiver length….
Depending on where you like to position your scope, more front or back, the objective bell will touch the rail and restrict positioning.  See the picture I posted of my Varmint above with the rail cut back, if you do this you should not have a problem with low PRW mounts.

If you are looking for the best permanent mounting solution to get the scope low on the gun the DNZ one piece mount is hard to beat.

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Rifle looks great…I especially like the change / update on the mag!
Nosler 155gr Match shoots amazingly well for factory ammo out of my CTR. 
Give it a try, its my go to ammo when I'm not shooting reloads.

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55's shoot great out of a 8 twist…Nosler BT Spitzers being my favourite in either 55 or 60gr.
Hornady 53gr Amax also shoots very well…

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Glad to hear it worked for you as well.

Its just a small flaw in the way the release and box mag work together.  Not enough setting depth and pressure on the spring release.
I'm sure it will be fixed on future rifles if it becomes a common problem, but I've had no issues with my rifle since I did this simple mod to the mag.  Report back and let us know if it cures the problem after you get a few rounds down range…

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Usually Tikka's have pinch points on Synthetic stocks that need to be removed, there is usually a big debate on removing these but it has done no arm and only helped my groups.  Both the laminate (wood) and Synthetic stocks really pinch the barrel contour starting about 2″ from the receiver.  If you inspect a few guns guns at a dealer or store you will see that there are irregularities in gap from side to side for most manufacturers, Tikka is no different.  Stock fitment and bolt movement is the first thing I notice when I pick up a gun.  I had the guy at the Local Bass Pro Shop bring out 3 guns before I was happy with the 300wsm I ended up going home with.

There is a balance that you can achieve with a Lite barrel that will allow you to take about 3 shots before its  heat soaked in various conditions, but then the harmonics change effecting yours groups.  I've found the Lite barrel shoots best fully free floated right to the action, it does not apply enough stress on the action to warrant supporting the first couple of inches past the action, like you need on most heavy barrel setups.

Only sand to to the action, usually its only the sides that need relief the channel is usually not touching.

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Nice build specs J….should be a good shooter!

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I was also pushing the 75Amax…used 25.2gr Varget and getting similar velocities.  Very accurate!
Loved shooting this bullet but the tips were not consistent enough for me in some batches so I switched to Bergers…will give them another try at some point when my Berger stash runs out.

If you like 75Amax you will love 80.5 Bergers…I can't get the same velocity as the Amax's but they are deadly accurate and consistent.

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I have sanded the stocks on all Tikka T3's with Lite barrels to fully free float the barrel (using “2” stacked bills or thick copy paper) to the receiver.  It will greatly improve accuracy over multiple shots.  Any pressure point on a lite barrel when it heats up will open up group size, I've proved it time and time again at the range.

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All greats points on the FFP scopes (agree with all…) but the OP mentioned he didn't need the ranging capabilities of a FFP scope, he already as one in the Vortex PST.  I'm interpreting his post as he's just looking for a 2nd scope for target shooting.  He can always switch if he needs a FFP ranging reticle if he's ever in a shooting situation that requires it.

For paper punching and target shooting at pre determined ranges a 2nd focal plane scope will do everything you need it to.  You can even stretch this out considerably if you know your target dimensions and practice.  I've shot a 2nd FP scopes for years in all hunting and target shooting situations before I finally bought my FFP scope.  I only use my FFP scopes for hunting, I don't shoot any competitive long range so to have all my scopes as FFP's is complete over spending for my shooting.