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dollar bill test.
Posted by TorontoAlex on September 29, 2015 at 10:31 pmIs the dollar bill test to check free float an ideal measurement? My laminate stock is clear with a canadian $5 polymer bill but i can easily bend the stock by squeezing it. I wonder if my accuracy issue is as simple to resolve as wrapping a dowel in 60 grit and removing a good 1/16″ off the inside diameter of my stock, sand again 100-120 and re finish. Not sure what other laminate stocks are made of but mine is pine, which is easy to sand. Anyone think its worth a shot? I have very little experience working on guns but Im a sander/finisher by day.
teesquare replied 8 years, 2 months ago 6 Members · 11 Replies -
11 Replies
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1 Bullseye
hard to believe that you can easily bend a laminate stock but if it that close sand it and give it a try
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1 Bullseye
I was under the impression a laminate stock was stiffer but i can easily bend it by squeezing the end of it when i grab it and the muzzle. Im sure its just pine because its very light.
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66 Bullseyes
Opening up the barrel channel shouldn't hurt anything. It's worth a try.
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105 Bullseyes
I have sanded the stocks on all Tikka T3's with Lite barrels to fully free float the barrel (using “2” stacked bills or thick copy paper) to the receiver. It will greatly improve accuracy over multiple shots. Any pressure point on a lite barrel when it heats up will open up group size, I've proved it time and time again at the range.
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1 Bullseye
So happy to read this! You sand right up to recoil lug mortise?
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105 Bullseyes
Usually Tikka's have pinch points on Synthetic stocks that need to be removed, there is usually a big debate on removing these but it has done no arm and only helped my groups. Both the laminate (wood) and Synthetic stocks really pinch the barrel contour starting about 2″ from the receiver. If you inspect a few guns guns at a dealer or store you will see that there are irregularities in gap from side to side for most manufacturers, Tikka is no different. Stock fitment and bolt movement is the first thing I notice when I pick up a gun. I had the guy at the Local Bass Pro Shop bring out 3 guns before I was happy with the 300wsm I ended up going home with.
There is a balance that you can achieve with a Lite barrel that will allow you to take about 3 shots before its heat soaked in various conditions, but then the harmonics change effecting yours groups. I've found the Lite barrel shoots best fully free floated right to the action, it does not apply enough stress on the action to warrant supporting the first couple of inches past the action, like you need on most heavy barrel setups.
Only sand to to the action, usually its only the sides that need relief the channel is usually not touching.
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1 Bullseye
Follow up on this, without starting a new thread, are you free floating all the way up to the action itself, or just where the barrel starts to taper out to a large diameter?
Likewise, if you're doing a full bed job on the action, do you bed all the way out to the muzzle end of the tapered section. OR stop with just the actual action at the action end of the taper?
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105 Bullseyes
Here's what I do on my guns:
Lite barrel – free float all the way to the action, bed only the action.
Heavy Barrel – free float to 1-2″ from the action, bed 1-2″ in front on the action.
Your smith could advise you best on this once you confirm barrel contour and length. -
1 Bullseye
So T3 Lite blued barrel synthetic stock in a 300 Win Mag……… Bed the entire action, make my forward dam at the beginning of the taper nearest the action. Free float the barrel from the dam forward. My only thought for bedding into the tapered section is that I would have some good geometry (tapered section to action) to seat everything, but I guess the recoil lug will take care of that front to rear alignment.
I think I'm going to bed the pillars in one step, then bed the recoil lug, then the action. Probably relieve the entire tang section except leave a very small ledge to make sure the height is still good. I just wasn't quite sure if these longer lite barrels would need the extra support from bedding.
Thanks
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105 Bullseyes
See attached bedding examples for Sporter & Varmint barrel contours….
Ballistic Studies did a complete write up from start to finish for the T3. -
1 Bullseye
Another THANKS for this thread. i know it takes more effort to post pics, and the time you have taken to do so is much appreciated! Makes a huge difference.
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