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What brass / Projectile / powder combination did you try?
One issue that I have found shooting a T3 300wsm myself is max velocity loads is not the answer for accuracy if range shooting and looking for groups, banging steel and hunting is a different thing.
The sweet spot for a 180gr projectile is somewhere in the 2800-2900fps from all my experience with T3 rifles in 300wsm.Here's one of my favourite combinations for my target / long range hunting gun:
Winchester brass / Nosler brass
CC1 250 Mag primer
180gr Accubond
65.5-66.5grs H4831sc
.030-.040 off the lands (pretty close to mag length)
Velocity is 2800-2850fps depending on gun and final charge weight / brass used.This load produces average or consistent 1/2 moa groups at 100yrds and is a solid performer at long range.
Its does not have the velocity that a lot of guys are chasing with hot loads but it is extremely accurate with moderate recoil. H4831sc powder is easy to dial in and you are not crushing powder leaving die marks on the projectiles trying to jam them in a case with this powder charge weight (common problem with my hornady dies and compressed loads).Let us know how you make out. I've got alot of experience shooting Tikka 300wsm's so if you have any questions give me a shout.
***if you don't have a muzzle break for range shooting, get one…you may think you aren't recoil sensitive but you will be surprised how much better your groups will be if you are completely relaxed and not tensed up holding the gun***
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I love this rifle…I think its just as good as the TAC…don't think one would out shoot the other in any case…
I myself would like a limited edition like this if I was in the market to buy right now, but would not turn down either rifle… -
Has mentioned off forum…
Start 1-1.5gr below what your gun liked for the 80.5 Berger and work up…
The ogive between the 2 bullets are quite different so you will see pressure signs differently between the 2.I'd load .020 – .030 off the lands as a starting point and find what groups the best with charge weight and then move it back or closer to the lands to see if groups shrink. Pretty much every hunting round for me will be .030-.040 off the lands as a minimum to avoid any issues with cycling the bolt in the field. And, I never touch or jam heavy projectiles to the lands for my 223 loading.
Let us know how you make out. I've been playing with my 300wsm far too much and neglecting my 308 and 223…hope to try this new offering from Hornady as well at some point.
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Recoil sensitive or not but the caliber/round is one accurate bugger with exceptional ballistics. I load my ammo with either 108,123,136 or 139 gr Lapua Scenar for target shooting and the gun is a Tac Driver – to put it mildly 😉
I totally agree…6.5 will be my next purchase if I don't go 260…
Can't beat the ballistics and accuracy for a 1000yrd gun, and it makes for a fine hunting rifle for anything from coyotes to deer. -
BUT…I have very high hopes for this ammo…everything I hear is positive for T3's…
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4 factory loads I have range tested in both my 300wsm T3 rifles…all produced sub MOA results 2 out of every 3 groups @ 100yrds…
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Thats pretty much the perfect combination for what you intend to use it for.
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No synthetic Tikka stock is free floated to the action…they all pinch or touch the barrel about 2 inches from the receiver including CTR and Varmint models…
I have 6 – Tikka's with synthetic stocks and I needed to open up the barrel channel on all rifles.
For range use…I prefer the varmint barrel but can really see no accuracy difference shooting a CTR in the same caliber shoot for shoot…either will produce accuracy, only the varmint will be a little faster with the extra barrel length in most calibers.
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Try…Federal Premium Trophy bonds Tip 180gr…
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You located in the US? if so…
Support the forum and contract Mountain Tactical to see if Jason can get you what you want first…but here are a few other places to check…
http://www.eurooptic.com/tikka-t3x-hunter-left-hand-rifles.aspx?
https://www.budsgunshop.com/catalog/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=tikka
https://www.cleaverfirearms.com/Products.aspx?Category=Rifles&Brand=10
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Thats a nice looking mount!
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I think you will be fine with 14x1mm….but right at the edge of what a smith will want to thread on the lite barrel…
If you get it done, please post some pictures.
Good luck!
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I have not mounted a suppressor on my Lite but can't see why a 9/16 thread would not work.
That was only option a gunsmith would complete on my 300wsm…Its worked out well for me using a muzzle break…see attached.
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I use rails to change scopes easily between rifles, and its only a personal preference for mounting optics.
I shoot 6 different tikka rifles for hunting and target shooting…all have the same Mountain Tactical rail,…this gives me the ability to change scopes on each rifle for intended purposes…placing scope in the same slot allows me to keep the same eye relief/ cheek position on the rifle and a pretty close hundred yard zero…
First round will always hit the target, no wasting ammo sighting in the gun… usually only a couple clicks to adjust scope for caliber / projectile to get it dialed in.If you are dedicating one scope for one rifle, and good set of rings will do the trick just as well.
Don't think one as any accuracy advantage over the other if properly mounted & lapped.I'm interested to see where other stand on this…
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This should help you with the scope base removal…don't be afraid to use a torch to heat it…sometimes its required to get these things off…I've removed quite a few, sometimes a heat gun will get it done but sometimes more resin/glue is used on each rail and its more of a problem.
https://tikkashooters.com/public_html/general-discussion/ctr-pic-rail-removal/msg5430/#msg5430
Chances are from what you described…the previous owner may have added some sort of permanent Lock-tite on the screws, should not be that hard to unscrew from the factory, its usually only an issue breaking the bond when seperating the base from the receiver, screws are never an issue…you may need a torch or a really good heat gun to heat up the screws enough to break or melt that bond…if you are not comfortable or you don't know exactly what you are doing I would get some help from someone who's done it before…or better yet a professional gunsmith.
