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t3 varmint scope base please help
I'm new here but need help. I recently bought a t3 varmint used (NOT t3x). It came with a Nikon scope already mounted to what looks like a factory scope base. I believed it was just the varmint because of the stock. It doesn't have the adjustable cheek riser the super varmint stock has. Anyways, it was my belief that out of the varmint and super varmint, only the super comes with the scope base factory installed. I thought the original owner installed this scope base so I went ahead and tried to remove it myself.
Unfortunately the damn screws won't bust loose! They looked like they were never touched before I started messing with them, and now one screw is a little marred, thanks to me, but still viable. I used the proper gunsmithing driver but it didn't make a difference and I obviously don't want to damage the screws more.
Does anyone know if the regular t3 varmint ever came with the scope base factory installed? I can't ask the original owner anymore. If these 4 little Flathead screws were factory installed, how do I get them to come loose without damaging the screws? Should I just take it to a pro gunsmith and what do you think should that cost me?
Thank you all for your time! -
8 Replies
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Varmint models did not come with a base, you may need to apply heat to the screws to get them loose. A hair dryer will work fine, heat gun is better but need to be careful.
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Thank you for the reply. It was my understanding as well that the t3 varmint didn't come with a scope base but from what I've read, aftermarket bases don't use flathead screws nor do they use the factory mounting pins. My rifle has both the flathead screws and two pins holding the base in place. Am I wrong about aftermarket scope bases?
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New info:
So I finally found how to identify my rifle using the serial number. Once I typed my serial number into the Baretta website, I got the model number: JRSS316
The Baretta website also said that it's a tikka t3 scout V/T NOT the Varmint model like I was told!When I Google that model number, it says it's a Tikka t3 Scout CTR. Anyone know what the V/T stands for?
So basically I was lied to by the original owner when he sold it to me as a varmint. I can't tell which model is better, the varmint or the scout CTR but I have a feeling the differences are negligible. So far, the only difference I can see between the two is that the CTR DOES in fact come with the scope base factory installed… epoxy and all. At least I now know what I'm in for! Lol
Any info on the differences between these two rifles would be greatly appreciated. Did I get ripped off or did I get lucky? Lol
Thanks! -
I believe the scout comes with a 20″ barrel, the varmint is 23″+.
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Hi you must of liked the rifle when you payed for it , yes it might not be as the advert stated but it's still a tikka and it will shoot , if you like it what's in a name , I can't answer about how you stand in law as I'm in England and I guessing your not
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Thank you for the replies!
So I've been doing some research and I've determined that there is surprisingly little info on the T3 SCOUT CTR. It's not even on the tikka website. I can't even find a PDF of the manual! They have the regular CTR but not the SCOUT. And they are NOT the same…
Here are the few things I have learned about the SCOUT CTR .308: It appears to be a tiny bit lighter than the varmint… probably because the varmint has a 23″+ barrel compared to the 20″ as stated above. (Thank you 37L1) It also might have the better bluing of the CTR and possibly the Teflon coating on the bolt as well… but I can't tell for sure.
It is VERY similar to the regular CTR but it IS slightly different. For one, it has 2 sling mounts up front. One is usually used for a bi-pod. The second, biggest difference is the bottom metal. The CTR comes with a metal 10rd mag, a larger metal finger guard, and the mag release is on the side so your thumb can hit the release easier.
The SCOUT CTR comes with a poly 5rd mag, a poly finger guard/bottom metal, and the mag release is forward of the magazine towards the barrel like the varmint rifles. That is all the info I can find. I have contacted Beretta for more info and I'm currently awaiting a reply.
Any extra info would be greatly appreciate… especially if you own or have owned the SCOUT CTR.
What's in a name? Not much really. It IS a tikka and I love it. That won't change. But a name DOES matter in one important way. If I want to buy a part for it, or get it fixed, I like to know what I have specifically, so that I buy the right parts or use the right ammo. For example, what is the rate of twist on the SCOUT CTR? I can't find that info. Is it the same as the regular CTR? It may not be a big deal but if I wanted to shoot reloads, the rate of twist might be handy. Lol
Thanks again everyone! -
The twist rate might be stamped on the barrel you also can see when you run a patch down the barrel , mark the rod when it enters the barrel push the rod down the barrel watching for it to do one rotation mark again , when you take the rod out measure between the marks and there you go you twist rate
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This should help you with the scope base removal…don't be afraid to use a torch to heat it…sometimes its required to get these things off…I've removed quite a few, sometimes a heat gun will get it done but sometimes more resin/glue is used on each rail and its more of a problem.
https://tikkashooters.com/public_html/general-discussion/ctr-pic-rail-removal/msg5430/#msg5430
Chances are from what you described…the previous owner may have added some sort of permanent Lock-tite on the screws, should not be that hard to unscrew from the factory, its usually only an issue breaking the bond when seperating the base from the receiver, screws are never an issue…you may need a torch or a really good heat gun to heat up the screws enough to break or melt that bond…if you are not comfortable or you don't know exactly what you are doing I would get some help from someone who's done it before…or better yet a professional gunsmith.
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