[Dog Down]

I've shot everything from a 40gr – 80.5gr projectiles in my guns and it stabilized all of them.

Some reading for you for tested handholds….

https://tikkashooters.com/public_html/general-discussion/promising-results-with-berger-80-5gr-fullbore-bullets-100yrds/msg5218/#msg5218

https://tikkashooters.com/public_html/general-discussion/75gr-amax-100yrd-groups-load-data-for-tikka-223/msg4628/#msg4628

Current personal 223 load for target and Hunting:
Hornady Brass
Nosler 60gr Spitzer BT
Target – 25.5grs
Coal – mag length

Factory ammo that was sub MOA out of both my 8 twist 223 T3's…

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1165351501/hornady-varmint-express-ammunition-223-remington-55-grain-v-max-box-of-20

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1001920975/nosler-match-grade-ammunition-223-remington-60-grain-ballistic-tip-box-of-20

Hope that helps…

[Dog Down]

Just on a side note regarding muzzle brakes on T3 Lite rifles…if you are shooting a lite barrel I have found the “vais” style breaks to be the most accurate with little to no POI shift on target. 
The custom one I have on my 300wsm improved my range accuracy considerably for multiple shots.
And I love the fact that it has a self tightening port design so you can hand tighten and remove it easily.

[Dog Down]

The wood stocks have full “free” floated barrels right to the action.
The synthetic stocks on both the T3 & T3x models have a pinch point starting about 2″ in front of the barrel.
The severity of it depends on the mold process during manufacturing.  They are only free floated to this point…

I've always sanded this area on all my synthetic stock T3″s to free float the barrels right to the action, and it helped with accuracy when shooting multiple shot groups, especially on the larger calibers.  People still debate this issue but its only been positive for me.
You also need to look at the area where the sling swivel stud in on the forearm. 
There is a reinforcing wall that has a barrel track cut out of it…Some synthetic stock do not have this centered around the barrel and maybe touching one side or the bottom…make sure you have clearance there as well.

[Dog Down]

Here's the brake I installed on my Lite barrel…its from a company in NZ. “QuatroMax Brake” http://muzzlebrakes.co.nz

Best muzzle brake I have installed for recoil reduction on any caliber!
I'm thinking the Varimax will be my next purchase from these guys.  Great design for range shooting and hunting.

[Dog Down]

Take Larkins advice…no stock of chassis will fully cure recoil, may make it a little better but if you are recoil shy and hate it then a muzzle break is really the best upgrade.

I few of us here range / bench shoot 300wsm rifles…and we have installed muzzle breaks.
A good muzzle break will bring recoil down to a 243 kick on a 270-wsm…

[Dog Down]

They are as close to “trued” as you can get from a factory rifle action.  Most guys won't blue print it if building off a Tikka action.

Unless you are changing to a custom lug style when rebarreling, there is no reason for it…threads are always perfect and bolt faces are always true.  You don't hear negative stories about Tikka actions like you do about 700 actions…

[Dog Down]

To get back on groupings / load development…

I'll crono 65.5grs (H4831sc) and see where we are at with velocity in the next month or so.  Will not get much time to test with Christmas around the corner though.

Will also shorten the c.o.a.l to 2.855″ as per Hornady factory load to see if more jump will shrink or open up groups.  If I can get it to shoot  1/4 – 1/2 moa consistently I'll be very happy so hoping I can at least duplicate range results from this past weekend with groups next time out.

[Dog Down]

Correct…the melting effect will be even as its spinning but the “BC” of the bullet changes considerably in flight…The previous pictures shows what happened at 600 yrds to 178gr Amax…imagine the condition of the tip after another 400yrds…starts out looking like a streamline Amax but ends up looking like a lead tip of an Interlock at the end of its journey…that change in BC especially from 500-1000yrds is huge for POI if you are looking for accuracy. Could mean the difference of an unknown factor of moa at 1000 yrds even in perfect conditions from what a ballistics calculator would spit out…depending on velocity, air temperature…etc…

Pretty interesting stuff, would love to have a “Labrader” to test it for myself.

[Dog Down]

First visual evidence I've seen on how the previous polymer tips were melting in flight over “long range”…
Side by side comparison of 2 amax projectiles.

This bullet was recovered beyond 600yrds from a 308 sending a 178gr Amax at just under 2600fps.
You can clearly see how the tip has totally melted in flight, not deformed from hitting an object.
The data I've been reading is basically saying that the tips really start deforming on average just past 500yrds or faster depending on velocity.

[Dog Down]

I agree Larkin.  I'm still on the fence about all this hype on the tips but if its factual and it makes me a better shooter I'll buy it!

Previously I was setting these projectiles at max mag length of 2.9-2.95″ and only got marginal results that I wasn't too happy with.  Decided to try with shorter c.o.al and smaller power charge and it seems to have paid off.

All 3 loads I tested this weekend was sub moa…but 65.5grs of H4831sc proved to be worth the trouble.
POI on 3 tested loads were all pretty much in the same impact area on the targets, only groups varying so i'm right in the middle of a node with 65.5grs.

Ended up with a .22-.25″ group…so 1/4 moa is reason enough to test it further for SD & ES results.
I'm trying to find 1 load for both target shooting and hunting for this rifle…then order a custom turret and be done with it.  There really isn't a better projectile out there for the 300wsm ballistics that will do everything from my testing…I played around with the 190gr LR accubond for awhile but diid not get it to where i wanted and the price was more then the ELD-x projectiles so it will be an easy switch with these results.

Here's the 3 shot target group…squares on the target are .5″….not crazy about how the target paper split in the cold, wish it had a more defined bullet impact like the first shot but will show better targets with further testing.

[Dog Down]

Resurrecting this thread…anyone have any new reports.

I've started playing with my 300wsm loads again and will report back after this weekend.

Loads being retested are:

64.5 grs H4831sc
200gr ELDx
Winchester brass
COAL – 2.875″

65.5 grs H4831sc
200gr ELDx
Winchester brass
COAL – 2.875″

66.5 grs H4831sc
200gr ELDx
Winchester brass
COAL – 2.875″

[Dog Down]

As long as you apply even pressure on the rail when fully tightened you shouldn't lose any offset.

I've always waxed the inside of recoil lug indent and them just fill with epoxy.
That way if you ever do remove the rail you won't be stuck drilling out that hole, the epoxy should just pop out with a little force.

Good luck.

[Dog Down]

Its still hard to tell from the photos but i can see what you mean by the light coming through on one of the pictures.

I'd do what I suggested…bed it with JB weld, apply it to both surfaces so you have continuous contact and all gaps will be filled.

Make sure there is no debris (old thread loc, etc…) caught in the receiver grooves on top of the action.  Anything in that area or around the screw holes would prevent the rail from setting properly.  Really give it a good clean before you bed it.  You should be fine if you mask off the action and only leave the rail area exposed.  Put a thin layer of epoxy on the rail and on the receiver.  Install and screw the rail down rotating on each screw evenly, don't torque down each screw fully all at once.  The excess epoxy will squeeze out and then just clean it off…let it setup for 24hrs before shooting and you are good to go.  The rail will be permanent but can easily be removed with heat gun or torch in the future.

Its a pretty easy process, I'm sure you can do it…this is the best Video I could find on the process showing you what you will need…

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aSLNilqnpWc

The ONLY DIFFERENCE for T3 is…it will be like how the T3 CTR rails are glued & pinned from the factory. The Tikka action grooves do not allow you to bed it the same as a Rem 700, where you can bed it and remove it based on the round smooth 700 action.  It will be permanent bedding job between the 2 surfaces.

Make sense?

[Dog Down]

Ok….lets start again and see if we can get this back on track.

Regards to the rail and previous post:
My previous post should have said… “That should not happen, something is wrong…”
If the rail you recieved from Mountain Tactical does not seat/fit flush and level with your guns receiver it must be a manufacturing issue or bent rail…there should be NO gap when fitting and especially after its screwed down, it does not need to be bedded…BUT…I sometimes bed / epoxy rails to my high recoil magnum caliber…but have not had a situation like yours that would require bedding to fill a gap or defect of any kind.

You got a picture you can post showing the issue?
Any chance the rail is riding the threads on the screws or you have some debris pinched in there?

Regarding bedding…
– I've used 2 part JB weld epoxy for this and it works great.  Gives you a long setup time for clean up.
You are just adding strength to take some load off the screws, nothing more. 
– Tape the exposed receiver area and wax it so nothing sticks if you have a mistake somewhere.
– Install the rail like normal, rotate even pressure to each screw and clean up excess epoxy being squeezed out…I apply epoxy to both the rail & receiver to make sure all surfaces are coated and have good contact.
– Clean all excess epoxy with isopropyl alcohol soaked q-tips and rags as you go.

[Dog Down]

Gap? that should not happen with a quality base.