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Some guys are getting similar barrel life to a 308 if you take good care of it…but its all subject to your loads, heat soak  monitoring and proper maintenance.  5000rds should be attainable…

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Remove 2 pinch points on the stock and at tapered action area (see attached photos).
Sand and remove these areas till you can slide a dollar bill with no binding right to the action.

I remove the 2 foreword pinch points with a chisel or dremel…then use sand paper for the action area.
Once done it will help tighten up groups for most T3's.

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Here's what I would do in this order if I was a TIKKA newbie:

#1 – Float the barrel – DIY cost nothing to do…
#2 – Install a rail (Mountain tactical) or 1 piece scope mount (DNZ is the cheapest and best 1 piece).
#3 – Install a heavier bolt handle
#4 – Install a metal bolt shroud
#5 – Install a metal trigger guard / buttom

Then proceed to a new stock or chassis if you have the budget.  This is where you can get pretty crazy with funds.

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See attached bedding examples for Sporter & Varmint barrel contours….
Ballistic Studies did a complete write up from start to finish for the T3.

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Here's what I do on my guns:

Lite barrel – free float all the way to the action, bed only the action.

Heavy Barrel – free float to 1-2″ from the action, bed 1-2″ in front on the action.
Your smith could advise you best on this once you confirm barrel contour and length.

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Very nice looking rifle you have there sir!
You say your son made the stock?  Fit looks perfect from the pictures.

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All you need to know…
https://tikkashooters.com/public_html/general-discussion/ctr-pic-rail-removal/msg5430/#msg5430

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That looks perfect!  The scope caps should have good clearance as well.

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Read this thread and see if it helps…
https://tikkashooters.com/public_html/general-discussion/heavy-bolt-lift!!/

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Mitch,

If you replaced you your factory plastic bolt shroud with an aftermarket aluminum this could actually be the problem.  Some of them fit tight and I experienced the same thing with my 300wsm build.
After cycling and working the bolt it eventually became a non issue after about 20-30rds.

If its doesn't loosen up then there is a larger problem.

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This is my drop chart for my 223 and 75gr amax load…your rifle totally blows it away.
120″ drop difference at 1000yrds between the 2 rifles…WOW!

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I have a dream build that includes a tikka 22-250 with a 1:8 twist.  It projects a 75 gr amax at 3800 fps or an imaginary speed close to that.  Anyway let's work on getting this right.
We can fix our problems given clean research

I'd buy one!

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Eric is totally right,…you have to change the twist rate if you re-barrel to shoot any projectile heavier then 50g for any long range shooting.  1-8 would be great but a lot guys are getting away with a 1-10 twist and a good 60gr projectile in a 22-24″ tube.  Velocities with hand loads are around 3500fps or greater and its an absolute laser out to 500yrds with a good BC 60gr like Nosler 60gr BT spritzers.

If its going to be more of a hunting rig I'd go with the 10 twist and go for speed…if you really want to play around with long range  shooting then go with a 8 or 9 twist.

Its awesome that there as some many new high speed builds being posted for .22 cal projectiles.
I'm starting to feel my slow 223 8-twist Varmint is over the hill…..NOT!

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Man thats fast with the 80gr…good looking drop chart as well. 

Link to chart…http://www.shooterscalculator.com/ballistic-trajectory-chart.php?t=c462ce19

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What ammo were you hunting with on Sunday?