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I use 25in-lbs (max) with a drip of Blue Loctite. Zero issues on 5 rifles mounting MT & EGW rails….
This is the spec Mountain Tactical recommends. -
He's referring to your choice of material used to bed the lug…polyurethane is brittle when dry and has no tensile strength compared to proper bedding materials. It should / will fracture quite easily under recoil if used on the lug.
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I've only bedded a couple T3 stocks so far, all “B&C”…I've actually milled out the existing cnc'd/cast lug and created a larger channel for a fully bedded steel lug with bedding of the action and tang. I highly recommend bedding the lug in the stock wherever possible. No need to have a removable lug on a T3 action especially if you are working with an “aluminum block”…But with a “synthetic stock” there is always a chance the bedding material won't stick the same so leaving the slot maybe is a good idea, you will need to do your research on the compound needed and pillar bedding is a must with any synthetic stock bedding job.
I'm sure AL could give you some info regarding the synthetic stock bedding, i think he's done a few before.If you are already going through the trouble of setting up for a bedding job you might as well go all the way and do the full action.
FYI – the 2 T3 rifles I've bedded shot the same after upgrading to a B&C stock and secondly bedding the B&C stock , no noticeable improvement in groups with “handholds”…but they look prettier!
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No you cannot use a MT rail on a Battue, the straight cut slot will block out of the rear sight.
You will need a EGW rail. I have one on Battue 308 and you can use the open sights perfectly.
The ramp of fiber optics on the rear sight is clear and in view when you shoulder the gun, does not distort your view at all.See attached for visual reference, with the slot centres removed you can see straight up the middle of the rail.
I also cut this rail to correct receiver length, like I do on must T3 guns…
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Its not posted on his web store…so not sure.
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How do you like the M40 compared to the Tikka factory stock?
Any noticeable improvements in accuracy or about the same as before?How was the inletting? Did B&C improve their quality control issues…I only ask because the last B&C stock I purchased had a terrible cut on the inletting, the CNC work wasn't very good…alot of rough edges and chipping.
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Thought your first post mentioned “sporter”…thought it would have the lite barrel.
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This should be a great book from a guy who actually shoots guns…a wealth of knowledge here.
Well worth the read or purchase for any of his Long range books. -
Hey Booger,
Can yo post a couple of pictures of the T3 Lite barrel with the M40 stock…..what to see how the barrel channel works with the lite barrel.
A picture comparing them both would be great, varmint versus the lite.Would really appreciate it. Thanks.
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Try a rag with acetone (mask off the reciever), just wipe some on and let it sit for a few seconds then repeat. I think my buddy actually stole his girlfriends fingernail polish remover to clean his in a pinch.
Acetone is something you don't want to be spilling everywhere,take care when using…use isopropyl alcohol for a final clean. Depending on the amount of glue it may take awhile, they all vary.
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I must have been tired yesterday. Looked at it again and I just had a bad sight picture working in my basement yesterday. I too thought it was odd being so far forward.
However the rail may be too long for the scope. Barely getting a dollar bill clearing both sides, so I can't move it further back. May have to get that milled down a couple of notches but will spend some time at the range first once it warms up a bit here to check eye relief better.
Thanks for the quick responses.
Remove the rail and cut it back to the receiver length (see attached)…I've had to do this with 2 rifles using MT rails. It will allow you to pull the scope back far enough for all the clearance you need. Its very easy to do. Just cut it with a saw and then sand or flat file (fine) the cut to the slightly rounded profile of the receiver. Apply any matte black exterior spray paint (mask off everything except the new edge) and you are good to go. In my opinion it looks better then having the rail extend past the receiver, just like the CTR and Tactical models from the factory.
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The best coyote size hunting / target bullet I have used for hand loads is the 60gr Nosler BT Spitzer…easiest bullet I have ever worked with for range and accuracy. Then I switched to the 75gr amax for longer ranges. Have shot the 75gr bullet from my 223 out to 900yrds on targets and have hunted out to 500yrds with it, great bullet if you have the twist rate. If not then the 60gr Nosler will do everything you need it to do and it will reach out to 500-600yrds very accurately with good loads. I routinely shoot 4″ clays out to 400-500yrds with the 60gr with surprising few misses when gun is dialed in.
Both are great predator bullets but you will need to be careful with shot placement if hunting for meat.
The 75gr amax will do alot of damage up close at high velocities, where as the 60gr Nosler is more forgiving.I could not find better bullets that provided the BC and accuracy I was looking for when working up hand loads.
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Sounds like you are still having a setup issue…you should still have full resizing on the neck.
You may need to play with it some more.Just curious…check to see if your de-capping pin and expander is set correctly. I've seen problems with this before if set too long. You are greasing the inside or the neck correct?
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If it's the Eric I know, he most likely meant 20 inch-lbs for receiver screws and not the action.
The action screws have been a debate in many forum post…but most of us are using anything from 30-45
inch-lbs…I currently use 45 inch-lbs for 5 of my tikka rifles with no issues. -
Its a shoulder issue on the brass for sure…you should have no problems with that length…
You most likely have the die setup wrong or you are not getting a full press when sizing the brass.
