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Dog where did you see a high caliber varmint model in North America? Hard to find I think, (I may be wrong of course).

I have seen several fluted barrel mags at cabelas in Rogers MN and south at Owetana mn.

No issues to get either caliber in “Canada” in a varmint….Cabela's usually always has in stock.

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correct…

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I shoot a T3 Lite 300wsm on a regular basis, pretty much the only rifle I hunt with for anything larger than coyotes…and I would use it for yotes if it was legal to predator hunt with a 30cal where I live.

My rifle is setup pretty much the way Eric described…
– chopped to 23.75″ and threaded for 9/16″ muzzle break (with radial brake gun recoils like a 223-243)
– MT Picatinny rail
– MT Steel Lug
– MT Bottom Metal
– MT Gen2 Bolt Shroud
– Limbsaver Recoil Pad
– Vortex Viper HS LR FFP 6-24 x 50mm

I still have it in the original stock, only mod there is free floating the barrel.  I tried the action in a B&C last year and it did not shoot any better then the factory synthetic stock so went back to it because the LOP is better.  The synthetic stock is actually a lot better then most people give it credit…But, I still want to fill the front of mine with epoxy to add a little weight to the front and stabilize any movement.

You will love the 300wsm for hunting especially if you handled.  The confidence I have with my gun as allowed me to stretch and improve my shooting abilities and made me a better hunter for sure.  The gun as never let me down…

The only regret I have is not purchasing the gun in a stainless varmint model!

– You can get the Tactical in a 300win mag…but no 300wsm.
– Hard to find a Super Varmint in any caliber…good luck.
– I do not think the A7 is worth the extra money…its doesn't shot any better.

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Yeah!  Friday I'll be shooting a bunch of photos for the site and I'll post a link here.

I put my 223AI super light in it. Surprisingly it doesn't look out of place. Of course, the picture week be worth 1000 words

Thanks man, If all look good I'll be one of the first buyers..

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Hey Jason,

I have a T3 Lite that will eventually have a varmint barrel…
I want to get this Berserk stock for this rifle and shoot it with the Lite barrel for the time being till I get around to changing barrels…any chance you can post or send me a picture with a Lite barrel in this stock? So I can gauge how it will look.

Really appreciate if it you could…Thx

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Stole this from “Sniper Forum”…

Re: Proper Devcon Mixing
Easiest and safest:

1) Put mixing container/plate on reloading scale, and tare with the container.

2) Use a mixing utensil (NOT an effing popsice stick…you need a degreased and dry flat-blade screwdriver to mix this stuff well and to use the blade as a scraper to mix all the way to the bottom of the pile of putty) to put in you estimated amount of 10110 Steel and get all you can OFF the blade of the screwdriver. Go heavy, if you doubt the amount you have…trust me, it's lots easier to throw a way a little hardened epoxy than to un-bed a rifle later to mix more epoxy because you didn't get good fill and squeeze out).

3) Weigh again…write this number of grams or grains down, and then divide the number by 9 to determine exactly how much hardener you need.

4) With the steel and container on the scale, tare the unit again.

5) Using a smaller utensil (and a popsicle stick might work for this), scoop out some hardener from the short can. Put it on the scale. Use popsicle stick to slowly transfer some hardener onto little “piles” on top of your puddle of steel until you reach the 1/9th ratio you need for proper cure and strength.

6) Once I have both in the container, and ratio correct, I clean up everything, put the CORRECT lid back on both cans, put the cans back in the box, and check the CLOCK…once I mix, I have about an hour at 70-degrees before the epoxy starts to get tougher to work with and clean up.

7) Get the CLEANED OFF screwdriver from earlier back out, and mix the crap out of this stuff until your hand starts hurting. Scrape the bottom and/or sides of the container multiple times into the middle, and make sure to use another screwdriver blade (also cleaned and degreased) to carefully clean off the bigger blade and remix the crap off of it. By the end of 3-4 minutes of stirring and scraping, there should not be ANY white hardener visible anywhere in the mixture, on either tool, nor anywhere through the strata of the pile or the mass left on the screwdrivers.

8) Clean off the smaller screwdriver.

9) Use larger screwdriver to start applying epoxy to the stock and/or action and/or pillar and/or bottom metal…

Get moving, you've only got about an hour. I'm to the point where I can mix, apply, compress in to stock, and have a rifle upside down and completely cleaned up to cure in about half an hour…but I've done a few.

The trick to good glass or glass/pillar bedding jobs is in the hours spent on preparation of the stock and action PRIOR to even opening the Devcon Box.

Tape or wax EVERYTHING you don't want epoxy to stick to permanently. You WILL have this gray crap on your hands or gloves, and in handling the rifle, you'll get little spots of it everywhere on the metal and stock. If you didn't tape or wax, cleanup later can be expensive and costly.

Key here: BEFORE the epoxy is cured, but AFTER AFTER AFTER you have compressed the barreled action into the stock as far as it can go..remove all the edging and stock covering tape that has epoxy on it..if that shtuff hardens on your tape at a seam, you are royally screwed in trying to get either one off later.

Clean up EVERY last bit of epoxy from where you don't want it later BEFORE you go to bed for the night. Q-tips and toothpicks and razor blades are useful for beveling and removal.

Last: after you stop fretting and searching for epoxy all over the rifle and you turn the whole thing upside down to cure, don't freakin' touch it for 6 hours. Don't. Go to BED. Get up in the morning, go in, and CAREFULLY get the bit and handle out and JUST CRACK the bolts loose about a 1/4 turn, then return to battery; if you used only tubing as for initial install of floating pillars, just leave it alone. Now, when you get home from work, the epoxy will be hard enough to pop the action loose without flexing, denting, or breaking under the tension.

Take all your fasteners out if applicable, take the bands or tube off, then gently pull down on the stock at the action, and up on the barrel, holding as close to the forend tip as possible.

If she doesn't come loose with moderate effort, don't freak out, and do NOT start hammering. Step away from the rifle…come back in half an hour and after you have spoken with one of us about it…it will come loose, but if you got a good tight bed, it will not be easy to get loose the first time out.

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I just received and installed the “MT Performance Series Bottom Metal” and the “Gen2 Bolt Shroud” on my 300wsm…awesome quality!  I love the way it changes the look of the gun.

I received one of the newer bottom metals…no sharp edges, slight radius / grind on full interior perimeter of the trigger guard. Very happy with the product.

Will be doing this to other T3's I have in the safe.

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Try H4831sc with the 208 amax's…..single loaded with a longer coal, about .050 off the rifling to start…you won't waste your time chasing a load with this combo.  Start around 63-64gr and increase in .5 increments till groups come together, think I saw pressure signs at 67 and settled on 66.5gr but my rifle shoots better closer to max loads …once you find the load giving .75-.5″ groups start moving the bullet close to the rifling and it will shrink to tiny ragged holes my friend.  My load tightened up about .030-.025 off the rifling, consistent .25-.5moa out to a long way off…

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One of the nicest setups I've seen posted in a long time…great rifle man! Love everything you put into the build.

T3 300wsm's shoot really well…its one of my favourite rifles to shoot.  Deadly accurate.

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No reason why you couldn't do this with a hand router and a homemade Jig using a 3/4″-7/8″ radius bit.
You would only have to cut the channel back till the bolt clears and drops out, should stop short of the centering pin in the cheek piece and would not effect the function.

Any exterior satin clear finish should seal nicely with a couple coats and light sand…I'm sure it could be done…you should try it.

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NO

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Good luck, hope it fixes your flyer issue.

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Excellent instructions J….well written.

Just an added tip….after Devcon starts to setup and is no longer squeezing out turn the rifle upside down.  This will eliminate any air bubbles at the surface that would normally ruin a perfect bedding job….it will look perfect.  Its makes the difference of it looking like a pro or an amateur did the job.

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Thats a great combo man…really nice gun!

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Thats weird that it will throw shots on you…whats your load data?

One thing I did find that I have to do with all 75amax is make sure all the tips are centric.
I've had good batches and some terrible.  Roll them on a solid level surface, I use a piece of steel on my reloading bench.  You will see which ones are centric, they roll without any wobble of the tip.  Some you won't believe how far out they are.  I only select the best ones for shooting groups, its does make a difference in the accuracy and groups opening up.