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Improvements on a budget, new shooter
I've got a tikka t3 lite looking to make some improvements on a budget. Bipod new stock not sure what else any advice?
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14 Replies
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Here's what I would do in this order if I was a TIKKA newbie:
#1 – Float the barrel – DIY cost nothing to do…
#2 – Install a rail (Mountain tactical) or 1 piece scope mount (DNZ is the cheapest and best 1 piece).
#3 – Install a heavier bolt handle
#4 – Install a metal bolt shroud
#5 – Install a metal trigger guard / buttomThen proceed to a new stock or chassis if you have the budget. This is where you can get pretty crazy with funds.
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Pretend your talking to an idiot because I'm new at this lol how do you float the barrel?
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Remove 2 pinch points on the stock and at tapered action area (see attached photos).
Sand and remove these areas till you can slide a dollar bill with no binding right to the action.I remove the 2 foreword pinch points with a chisel or dremel…then use sand paper for the action area.
Once done it will help tighten up groups for most T3's. -
Listen to dog down some things are available and you should get those
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I am curious about the suggestion for “heavier bolt handle”…. Why is this an improvement? I have seen a titanium bolt handle with carbon fiber knob advertised – obviously the idea from that manufacturer is to lighten the feel – or total weight?
A bit confused as to whether there is any actual gain in feel/performance either way…Please explain if you have additional information.
Thanks! -
Actually I like the oem bolt handle well enough.
If the rifle is in a heavy recoiling caliber, you might consider the hard recoil lug from mountain tactical. To summarize what I do for my tikkas:
1. +20 moa Picatiny rail ( on all, so i can use my various scopes between rifles)
2. hardened recoil Lug (on my 30-06 and 6.5×55 – not on my .223 yet)
3. aluminum bolt shroud (on all, seems to tighten up the bolt lock up – tho I cant say for sure).
After these changes I might go further when budget allows and
4. Ernie the Gunsmith varmint trigger spring (I like light triggers).
5. Higher capacity magazine
6. Thread the barrel for a brake/suppressor (a brake can make a T3 light in 300 mag behave).
7. Mountain tactical bottom metal for oem mags ( I have observed flex on the plastic bottom when torquing action screws).The order may change (for example a soft recoil pad and muzzle brake on a 300 WM would be 2nd on my list if i had this caliber) and none of the above are absolutely necessary. I notice the most benefit from the picatiny rail and trigger spring when I think about what goes into my range visits.
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Here's what I would do in this order if I was a TIKKA newbie:
#1 – Float the barrel – DIY cost nothing to do…
#2 – Install a rail (Mountain tactical) or 1 piece scope mount (DNZ is the cheapest and best 1 piece).
#3 – Install a heavier bolt handle
#4 – Install a metal bolt shroud
#5 – Install a metal trigger guard / buttomThen proceed to a new stock or chassis if you have the budget. This is where you can get pretty crazy with funds.
Personal choice but in my opinion,
#1 may help
#3 larger, not necessarily heavier bolt handle will be a bonus
#2,#4,#5 mostly cosmetic and wont make it shoot or work any better. 😉 -
Hi has stated above check the barrel to make sure it has clearance ,recoil lug , the next is just shoot the rifle ,
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I would start with load development and see what the rifle likes. Most non magnum T3s don't need any stock work. What is your rifle chambered for?
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I would start with load development and see what the rifle likes. Most non magnum T3s don't need any stock work. What is your rifle chambered for?
I have a 300 Win Mag….Still – I want to foam the butt, epoxy bed the forearm – and see if I can stiffen the stock without significant weight gain. That, plus a Limbsaver, a JEC Customs muzzle brake and an adjustable cheek riser….I hope this will make the gun into what I need, keeping light as I can – without spending a bloody foreign on “pretty furniture”. I hunt….Not a “range dude” – not that there is anything wrong with that…. 8) ;D
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I would definitely do the recoil lug first. It's cheap and easy and has restored many Tikkas that were previously thought of as “shot out”
Then work your way down the rest of the list here. The great thing is that no gunsmithing is required which makes the T3 very affordable to upgrade.
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Jason –
Before I bed the factory lug, should I swap it out for the steel lug option? Seems like an inexpensive way to prevent accuracy fade…as the aluminum lugs deform from recoil as I have read….
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Definitely go steel! It's the cheapest and easiest fix for Tikkas.
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Seemed like the thing to do! Will order that today.
Thanks!
T
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