[yukonal]

You could but a used Tikka and build a full blown custom off of the action, in the configuration you want, for less than that.

But, it seems you have a lot of hurdles to jump…because of where you live.

Heck, I'll sell you my competition .223 Tikka Super Varmint for that!!! ;D

And I'm pretty sure the .223 Tacticals are selling for around $1500. But don't quote me on that. If I were you, I'd be doing a lot more searching on the internet before I'd pay that kind of money. Best of luck, tho.

[yukonal]

Welcome to the forum Steve. I've been handloading for the .308 for 15 years. I'm sure I can help you out. I picked up a really nice .308 Hunter last winter…altho it's sitting in the back of the safe. Perhaps we can find out some things together.

I'll be pillar bedding mine this winter, and doing load development after that.

I'm planning on using Big Game powder, and 165 NBT bullets. Fed 210 primers.

[yukonal]

It's the same for the front and back.

There is NO need to torque the action screws any tighter than 35 inch pounds. Especially the wood stocks.

I torque all my stocks, even the pillar bedded, synthetic stocks, to 35 inch pounds.

[yukonal]

155 Scenars, and 180 VLD Hybreds.

Varget is a popular powder for the .308.

[yukonal]

Beretta has made some bad decisions over the years. This is just another one of them. Seems to me, thru your efforts, and free advertising for them, you've increased their sales.

And they stab you in the back.

[yukonal]

Send me a personal message what you have, and what you want.

[yukonal]

I wouldn't do it. Shoot the Winchester, and you'll have a hunting load that'll perform better on game. And I'm pretty sure your Varmint will shoot them well.

[yukonal]

That brings a tear to my eye.

If your new .223 Stainless still has an 8 twist, it will handle bullets up to 80 gr[Bergers].

That's what I shoot in my Super Varmint. My .223 SS Lite hammers with 65 gr Sierra GameKings, 50, and 55 gr V-Max. Let us know how it turns out!

[yukonal]

You'll love the Varmint in .223! (If you don't mind the extra weight)

If you're going to sell the Hunter, shoot me a personal message. I'm interested.

[yukonal]

I've been using a Sinclair model for years. I just ordered and received three Lucas bore guides. 2 for two different Tikka's, and 1 for a competition rifle. They are the “best”, and I'm pleased with them.

You can google Mike Lucas, or Lucas bore guide and you'll be directed to him.

Or, do a search on Accurate Shooter, and there is a write-up about them there.

[yukonal]

I've had the bolt raceway done, but won't let anyone coat the bolt. Besides, the contast between dark and stainless looks real sharp.

[yukonal]

You can find a Super Lite model if you do some searching. Every now and then a used one comes up too.

Here ya go…

http://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/8093123/gonew/1/FS_Tikka_T3_Super_Lite_flutted#UNREAD

[yukonal]

Welcome to the forum zorro. Them are a couple hard buckin' Tikka's you got there! 😉

[yukonal]

Welcome, and any questions…fire away!

[yukonal]

Bob,

We need to get to the bottom of this. This may sound strange, but anytime I've encountered this, look to see that when you put the rifle back together, you had the lug seat INTO the slot, not accidently on top of it.

You can still put the rifle together, but it'll be squeehawed.

Then try 25.0-26.0 gr Varget w/50-55gr V-Max seated .010″ off the lands.

35 inch pounds torque on the action screws.

Take the bolt apart and clean it, put back together dry.

Do NOT let the front sling stud contact your rest.

That's a start.