[Sir Ville]

As dog posted long ago – check out Nevada shooting you tubes with specific search for .223.  That guy hit a gal jug on first shot with a 75 gr a-max using a Tika T3 light

At what range ? 10 yrds or 500 yrds ?? 🙂 🙂

[Sir Ville]

Eric,

Glad to hear you like Dave's mags for the .223.

I just ordered 1 myself and am looking forward to trying it out!

Harry

Very well made mags indeed. A Word of warning though : They don´t fit all aftermarket trigger guards without minor filing and fancy Dremel work. Not my Atlasworx guard anyway 🙁

Waiting for Jasons mags to show up now.

[Sir Ville]

Same here indeed! Can't see any reason to have a slow twist barrel on a .223 – nor do i see a reason in any Browning:) 🙂

[Sir Ville]

No problem! You weren´t missed anyways ..  ;D ;D ;D

Did you get any of them Pheasants ?? Good meat on them. My wife is an expert on making delicious dishes on those unbelievably stupid Birds 😉
We sometimes hunt them with Rifles (headshots) but Shotgun is the mainstream method.

[Sir Ville]

If they did (Beretta) then that´s one pretty stupid move imho 🙁

[Sir Ville]

Shoot the rifle first and see how it goes. If it shoots well out of the box don't grind the pressure point lugs away as you could ruin the accuracy. They are made that way on purpose and the warranty will be voided if you remove them. Removing them could improve accuracy a little, but it could also ruin it. Why do it if the rifle shoots well?

You are spreading false information…

Here we go again…this topic is like beating a dead horse…
Show me where its written or documented by Beretta that these guns are made with pressure points…it does not exist.  People please… stop saying that parts of the stock touching the barrel on a T3 is planned and it is there to improve accuracy…its a poorly designed reinforcing wall at the front sling swivel, whether it touches the barrel or not seems to vary,… and the moulded fit is tight near the action…it even stats in the T3 manuel to free float the barrel if the stock is effecting accuracy Or you want the best accuracy from the gun…AND they promote it (see attached).

Agreed ! The barrel “pressure points” ?? No such thing on T3´s …
The barrel needs/ is meant to be free floated. No offence to J but you´re wrong regarding that part 😉

There´s no need to remove any material anywhere IF the barrel passes the “business card test” all the way to the action but if it doesn´t then it´s not free-floating and that needs to be adressed to get it shoot with consistency and the best accuracy it can deliver.

[Sir Ville]

I have the factory set-trigger in my .223 and it´s great for target shooting. There´s a superb “match” trigger out there to , although a bit pricey : The Bix & Andy. Austrian made marvel of a trigger and imho the best there is.
http://bixn-andy.at/en/sako-und-tikka/
That said the oem set trigger is all i need for target shooting and in its “set” state the trigger pull is under 200gr/6 oz. I also changed the oem spring to a lighter one to get the “un-set” mode down to 420 grams / +- 14 oz.
Barnard Precision makes great triggers as well – or so i´m told. 😉 Never tested one. Yet …
http://www.barnard.co.nz/barnard-tikka-trigger

[Sir Ville]

I see the new T3X 223 is only being made in the 8″ twist. Why  such a fast twist for a hunting rifle in a varmint caliber when the 12″ is ideal for the 50 and 55 grain bullets?

And of course it´s made in the 12″ twist as well. Whether Sako NA imports them is Another matter.
That said my T3 SV with its 12″ twist and 600mm/24″ barrel shoots all 55gr just fine. Never tried them 50 grainers though.
I usually shoot either 69 or 77 gr bullets in mine since this particular rifle is my “target” gun.
And it does shoot those superbly well. A couple of 5-shotters shot at 200 meters on a windy day :

The CC is under 1/2″ on both targets. The targets are Intern. 50 M Rimfire targets.

[Sir Ville]

This can´t be enough stressed it seems: Make absolutely sure the barrel is properly free floated on any and all T3´s and T3X´s. A dollar bill (nor any other currency bill for that matter )  isn´t enough for a proper job. The bare minimum is a business card that can be drawn all the way to the action without any circumference whatsoever. Bare minimum.
And as said it´s adviceable to change the oem aluminium recoil lug to one made of steel – like the one found here on MT/Tikkaperformance website.

[Sir Ville]

And there´s another very viable option for GRS from the same country of origin : Norway.
http://www.kkc.no/en/
These stocks are hunting oriented and of the same great quality.

Jason should pick up the US import of these as well 😉

[Sir Ville]

No biggie! That´s the way i roll  😀

[Sir Ville]

Good advice above…I open my barrel channels up all the way to the action so I have about 1/16″ clearance on either side…no pinch near the action, remove all that crap…its only been a positive improvement in the accuracy on all my rifles, for both Lite & Varmint barrels.

The wood stocks cannot take as much torque as the synthetic…I would be cautious going much over 35inlbs on the hunter stocks…

Yep!

Be careful with Wood stocks. You´ll crush the Wood and be sad 😉

[Sir Ville]

Tikka´s ARE indeed test fired at the factory. Atleast those for the Nordic and European market. Seen that myself while at the factory.
That said your issue is unacceptable and a clear warranty claim.

[Sir Ville]

Sounds like your barrel is done. I don´t know your cleaning regime/procedure but the shot Count strikes me as pretty low for a well taken-care barrel. Do you shoot excessively hot loads ?

[Sir Ville]

Tikka doesn´t really give any torque numbers for them action screws. You need to try and see what your rifle likes the best. Go in .25Nm (2.0-2.2 in.lbs) increments and test.
A business card is what i regard as a minimum for any barrel clearance and all the way to the action at that. All my rifles are Varmint / HB barreled and thus “swing” less than the “Spaghetti barreled” versions so , IMHO, a business card all the way is a bare minimum.  😉