[Ericbc7]

Thanks for the advice Yukonal, btw I was talking about the B-Mag and Boyd's, not my T3's and again your advice is much appreciated!

[Ericbc7]

you may try to draw the bolt back smartly so the case clears the ejection port.  I would hesitate to lighten the ejector spring because of concerns with ejection reliability.  This is a legitimate problem in regards to brass life and perhaps concentricity.  There are expander buttons that are tapered (often used in upsizing necks like when forming wildcat cases), and those would be preferable to a short stubby expander.

[Ericbc7]

excellent point Vixty, I have not done any load development on my 6.5×55 yet, but have 500 140 gr Berger Hybrids and Lapua brass calling to me to get busy!  And Yes, the 6.5×55 is long action and my comment about the throat is based on other's reports.  One caution, I don't know what longer magazines are available for the CTR.

[Ericbc7]

Well, compared to the Bolthorn, it is a bargain (comparing soup to nuts of course).  If the quality is there and you like the style, it seems to be priced in the ballpark as others have stated.

[Ericbc7]

do you have an estimated price?

I think I have to make room in my budget for this!

[Ericbc7]

Actually I like the oem bolt handle well enough.

If the rifle is in a heavy recoiling caliber, you might consider the hard recoil lug from mountain tactical.  To summarize what I do for my tikkas:
1. +20 moa Picatiny rail ( on all, so i can use my various scopes between rifles)
2. hardened recoil Lug (on my 30-06 and 6.5×55 – not on my .223 yet)
3. aluminum bolt shroud (on all, seems to tighten up the bolt lock up – tho I cant say for sure).
After these changes I might go further when budget allows and
4. Ernie the Gunsmith varmint trigger spring (I like light triggers).
5. Higher capacity magazine
6. Thread the barrel for a brake/suppressor (a brake can make a T3 light in 300 mag behave).
7. Mountain tactical bottom metal for oem mags ( I have observed flex on the plastic bottom when torquing action screws).

The order may change (for example a soft recoil pad and muzzle brake on a 300 WM would be 2nd on my list if i had this caliber) and none of the above are absolutely necessary.  I notice the most benefit from the picatiny rail and trigger spring when I think about what goes into my range visits.

[Ericbc7]

Since all T3 actions are long, there is not much advantage to choosing the 260 based on that criteria.  Performance wise, both come with 1:8 twists, the 6.5×55 has a bit more case capacity and the throat is quite long.  I am not sure if Tikka uses a different bolt face for the 6.5×55 (technically it's slightly larger than the .308 based 260) so if rechambering is in your future, you might want to confirm dimensions (some guys on accurate shooter consider the difference negligible).

I chose the 6.5×55 in the 24 ” Sporter because I wanted the barrel length and like the stock.  I have a Hunter in 30-06 and the wood stock also fits me well.  Im not real up to speed on the CTR but I think it offers a higher capacity factory magazine and is threaded for brake/suppressor.

There is a good YouTube by a guy in Canada that did a lot of mixing and matching of stocks between models and it's worth a look.
I think it's going to be hard to go wrong with your choice!

[Ericbc7]

Hehe thanks Al, thanks dog!

[Ericbc7]

Dog is correct, you don't need to go hard on on the screws, the pinned mountain tac rails only need to be locktighted a bit.  the integral pin takes all the stress. so all the base issues are fixed.

  now the rings need addressing.  I used to think high quality rings were good to go.  I now know that that is not the case.  you need to lap ALL Rings (except some that have polymer inserts). 

I have several DNZ Freedom Reaper one piece rings that are claimed to be true since they are machined from a single block of metal.  While I like them and will use them in future, they need to be lapped.

  I lapped a recent set of Freedom Reaper Rings and found there was a significant amount of non-contact with the lapping bar.  This means that the rings were not contacting the scope body fully and while you may never see a problem, you can see a potential problem.  unless 80%+ of the ring engages the scope body, you are asking for damage to the scope surface on a hard recoiling rifle.  Lap those rings and you will never have a problem.  That said, if the rings are steel you might have to deal with corrosion caused by lapping.  oil em and occasionally check em.

[Ericbc7]

This would be a great time for YukonAl to chime in if you can friend.  I have a Boyds stock that fits “almost”  the holes for the action screws don't line up just right and the wood drags on parts i have trouble identifying.  the chalk doesn't give me the best info.  so… for those of us that don't have an end mill, could you give us tips on using a dremel tool to relieve the pinch points?  I think i understand the process but the execution leaves me a bit in the dark.  One tip or idea i have is to mix the devcon 10110 in a zip lock freezer bag and cut the tip and use like a pastry piping bag to place it.

I look forward to hearing any advice!
-Eric

[Ericbc7]

i have and use the lee collet sizer for precision loading.  I have 3 mandrels for each caliber since press pressure is not helpful to change neck tension.  all that said, you must full lenght size new brass initially to make sure it will chamber.  you will also (almost certainly) need to full length sized your cases after the 3rd firing or so to bring them back into spec.  new brass is variable – even lapua.

[Ericbc7]

the only way to truly check the chamber is to get some cerrosafe (avail on ebay cheap) and do a chamber cast.  It is a low melting point metal that will nearly perfectly image your chamber.  It will shrink a bit on cooling so take measurements after it cools enough to handle but is still warm (we are talking .0005 i think so don't worry about cooling a lot).  I say this assuming you have tools to measure the cast accurately.  I would be surprised if the chamber is the problem. you could also cast the sizing die but before you go to all that trouble you might consider buying a Redding or Forster full length sizing die (preferably a Redding type S Bushing full length die with a .245 bushing and use the carbide expander button).  This is not cheap i know but while i love Lee stuff the redding is better.

[Ericbc7]

good caution Dog, i have been busy with work and other projects but I was just down in Minneapolis 2 weeks ago and saw a used varmint Tikka .223 for sale (1:8 twist for $600+ or so ( i cant remember the specific price but real close) and would have bought it except i have a heavy .223 and need a light in same twist).
for those that might want it, it was at Gunstop in Minnetonka, MN USA.  Gunstop in MN is a reloadaphiles dream lol.  They stock everything (nearly) you could possibly want in precision reloading and components.

[Ericbc7]

I think Devcon plasteel or perhaps acraglas gel are better products for bedding.  I am currently trying to bed a B-mag in a Boyd's stock and the woodwork part is the hardesest for me.  I'm using chalk line dust to try to see where the action is rubbing and it's not clear.  I think I need a better bit for my Dremel.  I've been using a slender carbide bit but finding the pinch points is tough.

[Ericbc7]

I don't have the link, but YukonAl has some good pictures regarding bedding on this forum.  I have watched several YouTube vids on bedding and none of them deal with the basics (except cavedweller perhaps).  As I understand it, the goal is to make a good & clean interface between the metal parts that react with recoil.  in other words on a tikka, the recoil lug and ?

For those that know, is bedding the lug on a tikka sufficient or should we be bedding the lug and tang?