Member Ericbc7
MemberForum Replies Created
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Super job! Got to love it when a hunt goes well!
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There might be an easy mod to let you seat bullets as long as you would like. Since I believe the super varmint uses the standard T3 mags, all you would need to do is replace the short action bolt stop with the long action one.(or modify your existing bolt stop-easy) and get a 30-06 magazine. I have not tried this personally, but it should work.
Let us know if you go this rout and how it works for you.
Good luck!
-Eric -
It looks quite good to me also.
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Sorry for late reply, but Nice rifle!
Great idea to lap the rings (even expensive rings usually need lapping).
You might try turning the ring alignment bars around so that the flat ends meet, this will show if the rings are parallel as well as the same height (if the bar's flat ends are true). This is not usually a problem with these style rings/bases – more a potential problem with Leupold “twist in” rings since it can be hard to determine with the pointy end of the bars which ring is not twisted correctly. I haven't used Leupold's personally, just repeating what I have read.
Enjoy,
-Eric -
Glad To hear!
have fun shooting,
-Eric -
I sounds like there would be little functional difference between the “stainless” and black rails. Is there any downside to having 2 colors aside from the cost of maintaining more products in inventory? If the cost were similar I would try one, although all but one of my scopes and rings are black/blue.
From a marketing standpoint, there is sure to be some demand. The question is; does the demand for blond rails take away from the demand for brunette rails (net zero increase in rails sold)? I usually like to err on the side of providing more options unless the cost increase affects demand.
Always happy to offer (somewhat unhelpful in this case) opinions lol,
-Eric -
I don't know for sure if the low ss tac rings and stac 4-20 combination will clear the front bell on a heavy barrel, I am guessing it will but you may have to check the numbers a bit. Remember I have not personally used the Sightron yet, but their other products and generally good reviews give me a positive impression. I did read one negative that had to do with a broken/defective from the factory stac and a retailer with poor customer service.
Anyway, have fun with the research and good luck on a speedy delivery.
btw, I think “marquee” ammo would probably be the stuff the store advertises on it's marquee to bring in the bargain hunters, i.e. inexpensive “plinking” ammo.
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Interesting, thanks for the info.
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Nice! Happy pulling
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That is a pretty extereem shift. The good news is your groups look consistent. I have a suppressor in the pipeline so am interested in this thread. From what I have read there is nearly always some poi shift.
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The biggest T3 I have seen here in the states is the .338 Win Mag. I would like to see some 9.3×62's make it into this country – would be a great elk round.
Update: a bit of searching showed that a few 9.3's have been imported- a hunter and a light T3 that I found so far.
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Hi Ziggy, sorry to hear your having this issue.
Since you have checked for problems with the latch, perhaps bending the flat spring attached to the trigger assembly so that it applies more forward pressure on the magazine might fix the problem.
Let us know what you end up doing to fix this.
Good luck!
-Eric -
I look forward to seeing your results!
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Hi Lakehouse, with the 1:8 your choices are wide open. I have accumulated a variety of bullets for my .223. I keep an eye out for sales and if one looks good I buy a few (few hundred sometimes lol). I picked up some normally expensive 65 gr JLK's from an estate sale, but in general I like to try several brands and weights so I can develop load data for a varmint load and long range load.
There is a good thread on accurate shooter forum on load development at 100 yards started by Erik Cortina that I follow when I test bullets and powder combinations that has saved me a good deal of components. It always helps to have a plan at the range. What I like to do breaks down something like this:
1. research a bullet/powder combination and make up a target board with enough bullseyes to pattern each load.
2. For a given bullet, start with a load 1 or 2 grains below the expected best load, seating bullets about .010 off the lands (or load to a COAL that gives a decent grip on the bullet when using short bullets).
3. load up 4 rounds of your starting powder weight and then load 4 more increasing the powder weight 0.3 grains, then 4 more at an additional 0.3 grains and so on until you have 4 rounds for each increment up to the max you wish to try (I usually go past my expected target weight by up to a grain).
4. At the range, fire 1 round from each powder weight – paying attention to pressure signs- and stop when pressure signs indicate max load for this bullet/powder/seating depth combination. These test rounds are handy to zero your scope on a practice target so you will be very close to the bullseye. Once you determine the max load, collect any rounds you loaded with more powder and put them away for later pulling and component recovery.
5. Now for the fun…Keeping track of which target you shoot with a given load, fire a series of 3 shot groups progressing through the various loads. It is helpful to shoot these over a chronograph and record the data for each shot. Allow cooling time between groups and keep the brass from each load together for inspection later. Some guys like to “round robin” this part but I find it too confusing and unnecessary, particularly if you have to stop before your finished since on your next outing the weather will be different.
6. Back at home look at the targets and you should see the center of the groups change elevation from group to group. What you are looking for is 2 or more consecutive groups that print at about the same elevation. These same-elevation consecutive groups indicate a “node” where the performance is stable and not sensitive to small changes in powder charge. If you find a good stable node, then look at the chrono numbers and if the extreme velocity spread is acceptable, you can select the powder weight that is in the middle of that node. (ex. if you find a node bracketed by 23.9 and 24.5 I would continue development using 24.2 grains of that powder).
7. now that you have found a stable powder charge, you can start tuning the load by adjusting the seating depth. This part gets a bit fussy sometimes and if your accuracy is good at .010 off the lands (or whatever you used) then you are more or less done with basic load development and you can load up a bunch of rounds and go have fun!
This was a VERY cursory summary of my load development routine and I can't really do it justice here.
I encourage you to read the thread
http://forum.accurateshooter.com/threads/long-range-load-development-at-100-yards.3814361/
starting at the beginning (you don't have to read the whole thing since its 94 pages long lol.)
After a few pages of reading you will have a good handle on what we are looking for.Sorry for the long post, Have fun!
-Eric -
You won't be disappointed!
