[Ericbc7]

Good shooting!

[Ericbc7]

I know this is an old thread but I ran across a guy from Canada that makes a powder trickler that interfaces with a A&D FX-120I scale and the Sartorius/Entris scale.  He sells the FX electronics and trickler for $199 (not sure if US$ or Can$) and the Sartorius version for $249 so if you have one of those nice scales, this would get you auto trickling to the single Kernel of powder (depending on powder).
http://www.autotrickler.com/index.html
There is also a long thread on the device at http://forum.accurateshooter.com/threads/turn-your-fx-120i-into-a-prometheus.3897203/

This set up really appeals to me since my Gempro 250 wanders a bit.
I will make a new post on this later.
Happy shooting all.
-Eric

[Ericbc7]

Hi Snargle
Glad to hear you didn't try to force the primers with the lee tool.  It s a great tool but just not up to really hard seating.
you might try seating primers in the tight pockets with your press' seater but the only way I am familiar with to resize the pockets is to use a primer pocket swager.  I believe the least expensive one is the RCBS swager combo meant to mount in your reloading press for removing military crimps.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/235832/rcbs-primer-pocket-swager-combo-2

RCBS and Dillon both make dedicated swager's meant to take out the military crimp but they are not cheap.
I don't think the pocket reamers affect the diameter so the cutting tools won't be much help (I could be wrong of course).

Great rifle and Hornady brass is usually pretty decent.
Good luck!

[Ericbc7]

I have used the Hornady cam lock puller and RCBS puller.  The RCBS (30 years old) is smoother and has better feel but I can't use it in my Forster Co-Ax because of the floating die set up and the die handle interferes with the press' yoke style handle.  The Hornady, with its vertical actuator works great in the Co-Ax.  The Hornady has fewer collet sizes (i think) so you might have to use a collet that does not closely match the bullet dia.  ex. I have a .270 collet for pulling 6.5mm (might be able to use a .25 for the same)  Both Hornady and RCBS will probably leave more marks on pulled bullets than a kinetic but I am not competing and so re-use the pulled bullets with no issues.
If I polished the Hornady collet I expect that it would be just as smooth and would be my choice for any press.  I would not worry about some of the reports that the Hornady handle metal is too weak and breaks – I am betting that most with this complaint are mis-using the device.

Happy Pulling !

[Ericbc7]

I use the +20 moa rails on all my tikka's so when i swap scopes, I don't have to do a lot of adjustment.  I set my turrets to read zero at their lowest setting so that i can use the turret's scale like a vernier and record the zero setting for each rifle.  The rings stay with the scope and let me get back on target with 1 or 2 shots (usually).

[Ericbc7]

Thanks Ziggy!

[Ericbc7]

I have a SWFA ss 10x like you are contemplating and it is an excellent value (it's on my T3 30-06 at moment).  It would not be my first choice for long range (although it offers plenty of elevation adjustment) mainly because it is easier for me so read wind/mirage with higher power at long range and I like to really zoom in on those little targets.  I have a 6-24 vortex on my Sporter and a Sightron 8-32 on my light (I swap my scopes around so have the same picatinny rails on all my T3's).  My next scope will probably be a Sightron STAC 4-20 which I don't have a lot of feedback on yet, but the price is right.

Btw, the SWFA ss-Tac mounts are also a great value, I lapped mine and the wear pattern was 90% almost immediately – much better fit than my DNZ freedom reaper mount (not saying one is better than the other just that even pricey mounts can need lapping).

Anyway it sounds like your on the right track! 

Enjoy the journey friend
-Eric

[Ericbc7]

Welcome Lakehouse! 
Great choice of caliber and rifle.  I am not very familiar with the differences between the tactical and varmint series other than the bottom metal and magazines are different (the Tac having a larger metal magazine).
By most accounts the varmint and Tac both have good and usable stocks which require very little modification (if any) to free float.  The Varmint comes with a 23 3/4 barrel and the Tac comes with a 20″.  Perhaps someone else will chime in with more detailed information.

For shooting at 500+ yards the heavier bullets in the 69-80+ grain range are the norm, so 1:8 twist is the way to go.  You can still shoot lighter bullets (I have a load using a 53gr bthp that does well in my Sporter 1:8), but for reaching out, heavier bullets spinning fast are what I like!
Check out Mountain Tactical's store (on this site) to see what rifles are available right now and consider some of the accessories available –
+20 moa Picatinny rail for those long shots
Shroud and recoil lug and you will be good to go!
I also like the MT bottom metal (for the varmint).

Good luck and have fun researching the options (that is a large part of the fun for me)!
-Eric

[Ericbc7]

Very Nice! I look forward to seeing some targets, particularly after the moderator is attached!

[Ericbc7]

On the old exploded firearm parts list, tikka doesn't even show a number for the 22-250 extractor – just the 222 version (630018).  You should be able to have a modern sako extractor installed for less than $200 (prob closer to $150 since it is a common conversion for remington bolts).

Good luck!

[Ericbc7]

Brownells has a parts kit for $59.99

http://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/bolt-parts/bolts/parts-spare-for-bolt-tikka-t3-prod31609.aspx?avs%7cMake_3=Beretta

I have never used this kit so I can't say if it is the best one available.
Good luck!

Update : sorry thought you meant a T3

[Ericbc7]

It sounds like you are describing a case head separation.  This type of failure is more common in belted magnums when the cases are full length sized such that the they head-space on the belt.  The failure happens because when the case head-spaces on the belt, it leaves excess room between the shoulder and the chamber.  On firing the case stretches to fill the chamber which thins the brass just in front of the belt.  when you resize the case you push the shoulder back and the case gets longer, so you then trim the brass that flowed forward.  After a few cycles of this you can end up with a incipient case head separation.  While not usually dangerous (since the receiver is vented) it can damage the chamber and magazine.

If this separation is happening on factory ammunition, then you might have a different problem – To start diagnosing I would measure the case with calipers at:
1. Diameter just above the belt.
2. length from base to midpoint on shoulder (use headspace gauge and compare to unfired cartridge).
If the measurements are very out of specification, then have a gunsmith check the chamber.

For long case life, belted magnums should be re-sized so that the cartridge head-spaces on the shoulder rather than the belt.  You can set up your belted FL Die just like you would for a standard bottleneck case.  If (when you head-space on shoulder) you find that you are not getting enough sizing near the belt to allow easy chambering, you may have to use a Belted Magnum Collet Re-sizing Die from Innovative Technologies. http://www.larrywillis.com/

It is not usually a problem when reloading for one rifle since the fired rounds will fit close to the chamber.

This is a short treatment of head-space separation so I encourage you to do some searches as there are some very good articles dealing with this problem.
here is one thread on Long range Hunting forum:  http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f23/reload-belted-magnum-cases-20-times-now-6070/index2.html

Good luck friend!

[Ericbc7]

I have some picks that show the berserk, the fact is this stock is the best thing since sliced bread.

Here are the pictures with my T3 light .223.

The slender light barrel looks surprisingly appropriate in the stock.  No worries about free floating in this case!

[Ericbc7]

Hi dog, I saw that one and saw its potential.  I will explore my concept of a side mounted pick rail mount for a bit and if it works, will post the info for all to see.  I wish I had a cnc or lath to play with!

[Ericbc7]

I would consider a Battue in .338 WM, or larger but in my area my 30-06 does the trick.