[Ericbc7]

very nice!

[Ericbc7]

Good question BB,
The web is the bottom of the inside of the case and excessive expansion of the area just ahead of that point is a clear sign of high pressures.  The spot I think of as the web area for measuring purposes is where the belt would be if the case was a belted magnum i.e. just a bit in front of the extractor groove.  I can't give you an exact location or how much expansion is acceptable since it depends on some variables, but in general if you load the same case (or very similar cases) with progressively hotter loads you will reach a load where the diameter of the fired case (measured just in front of the web) will increase significantly more than it did on the previous lighter loads.  I would expect some of the other pressure signs to show up before this indicator becomes noticeable.  A good rule of thumb is to not focus on any one type of pressure sign – lots of variables so if you have 2 high pressure indicators, chances are your load is too stout and at the very least your case life will be short.
(Clarification edit) I re-read this and it might have sounded like I was recommending that you should wait until you see 2 pressure signs – not what I meant- I was suggesting that you look for all the signs and not use one criterion only i.e. don't ignore loose pockets, cratered primers and ejector marks because your waiting for the web expansion indicator! 

I had a 25-06 load with nozler partitions that started to blow primers on every other shot or so – I was a new reloader (back in the early '80s) and since the load was published I assumed the loads were safe. I don't know for sure (now) what the problem was but I retired the load.  As it turns out my firing pin spring was weak and probably contributing to the piercing but there was no question the loads were warm. Anyway, enjoy researching the subject and here are some good articles on excess pressure and reading your cases: http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2007/06/detecting-excessive-pressure-in-your-cases/
http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2016/03/case-diagnostics-find-the-flaws-in-your-cases/

Regarding high temps.
H4350 is one of the most temp stable powders available – better in a recent test than the new IMR Enduron 4451 (4166?) powder advertised as temperature insensitive.  There will be some pressure increase even with H4350 due to higher temps but is not likely to be the primary source of your pressure issue given the conditions you mention.

Good shooting, -Eric

[Ericbc7]

very nice rig!  All you need now is a non-dyed bolt shroud!

How do you like the Vortex HSLR?

I have the same bolt handle and love it!

[Ericbc7]

Dom Perignon? I was assuming Budwieser or Coors…  Anyway, sorry to hear about the breakup.  The way I see it, if your gunsmith is not slammed with work nowadays, then you should probably look elsewhere for important work (good smiths are busy).  I do understand it can be upsetting when what was once an almost “on call” gunsmith relationship has to change, but lets celebrate the success rather than bemoan the changes.

My goal as a customer is to be “low maintenance”.  I try to research and plan ahead to avoid rush jobs.  If I had an emergency, I'm sure the crew at MT would do their best to help out.  Jason, as long as you are happy with the product your supplying and the direction your going I will be a happy customer!

–

[Ericbc7]

Flat primers are not necessarily an indication of excessive pressures.  Different primer brands/types are differently hard.  You might try magnum primers (backing off the powder and working back up), or a brand that is known for tougher primer cups.  If I find the article I'm thinking of I will post a link here. 

http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/?s=soft+hard+primer+cups&submit=Search

Keep an eye out for other pressure signs like excessive web expansion, loosening primer pockets and marks on the cartridge base (polished spots, ejector pin marks and engraving).  It is possible that you are getting high pressures, even though the load was published as safe.  Tight chambers, bullets seated into the lands, bullets seated deeply into the cases, out of spec powder or primers, high temps, over long cases and probably many other things could  aggravate a cartridge's pressure.

Good luck and keep us posted,
-Eric

[Ericbc7]

Hi fabwing, I can think of a lot of factors I would consider when choosing a .308 win barrel profile.

Length: since 300 yds is fairly short range a 20″ barrel would give ample velocity.  It is also short enough to be manageable with a sound moderator attached.  A short barrel also allows for a heavier profile for the same weight.

Profile:  The emphasis on barrel heating or portability will depend on how much stalking vs. target shooting you plan to do. A common theory suggests that hot barrels tend to whip more, possibly changing the point of impact.  I can't say how much heat can influence a given barrel, but it is not my primary consideration.  Heavier profiles are stiffer and usually exhibit smaller changes in point of impact due to mounting moderators.  medium Palma profile (5.35 lbs/30″ for example) might be a decent compromise between portability and stiffness although with a short barrel you might manage a heavier M24 profile (6.2lbs/26″ for example).

The stock you use will have a large influence on the handling characteristics of your rifle (you will need to modify or replace the factory stock to fit the different profile).

I have experience with other than factory profiles (heavy and light) in the Tikka line, so don't take my observations as recommendations so much as just adding to the conversation.

My one recommendation is to find a reputable gunsmith to do the work – there is no cheap way to get quality work in this craft!

Good luck! (And look at a CTR befor you decide!)
-Eric

[Ericbc7]

I just tried a carbon fiber, titanium bolt handle on my T3 light today and it's very nice!  It is difficult to close the hard case on it though- I take the bolt out and no problems. 

[Ericbc7]

Hi Flyboy, welcome!
Great rifle and caliber!  I have been planning to do some load development with the Barnes LRX in my -06 but have not done it yet.  For deer and pigs I would focus on the lighter monolithic bullets at higher velocities since those bullets exhibit some performance issues at lower velocity/long ranges. I have tried some factory loaded lead free and they group well in my T3.  I will review some of my records and see what I can add to this.

Dogdown has done some load testing in his 300wsm I believe and has good insight into bullet performance (there was a recent thread on bullet choice which I will try to find and post here).

It is possible to have good performance with these bullets given certain limitations.

Good shooting and I will update when I have some free time.

-Eric

[Ericbc7]

Hi Dustin, welcome – hopefully someone who has disassembled the bolt before can chime in – I assumed it was similar to a rem 700 bolt, but am not sure and am on the road so can't check my Tikkas.

[Ericbc7]

Glad to hear!

[Ericbc7]

Nice rifle!
Ruger really caught a good wave with the precision rifle, they have been selling as fast as they can make them (I have heard).  I agree that fit and finish is lacking in the Ruger (esp. At that price!).  If  Berretta keeps Tikka quality and joins this tactical trend (fad?) they will sell a lot of rifles.  I doubt I will be buying either though (happy with my Berserk stock).

[Ericbc7]

Nice rifle!

[Ericbc7]

No worries agreen, your fine – lots of the regulars are busy this time of year.  I just bought a T3 light in .223 or I would be interested.

Good luck on your sale!
-Eric

[Ericbc7]

Hi bits, the 6.5×55 will perform similarly to a 260 rem or 6.5 creedmore (it will actually outperform them with handloads) which are both popular in PRS competitions.

The factory barrel in 1:8″ twist is well suited to the 140 grain, high bc bullets, that many long range 6.5 shooters prefer. 

There are a lot of variables we should identify that might be making 1 k-yd shots problematic for a shooter and his/her rifle.

To address your barrel concern, the 20″ barrel should be able to generate velocities that will keep a 140 gr VLD type bullet supersonic to well past 1000 yds.  Before you rebarrel (perhaps $500-$700) I would invest in a chronograph for load development.  Knowing your velocity is the easiest way to figure your dope (elevation and windage) and is the practical way to see if your load is consistent enough to keep vertical dispersion manageable.

I don't have any personal experience with 1k shots (hopefully will change this summer) but there are lots of good resources out there to get you started on that path – Brian Litz's book “Applied Ballistics for Long Range Shooting” is a great aid to understanding the complexities of this part of the sport!
Good luck,
-Eric

[Ericbc7]

While all T3's are long actions, the bolt travel is shorter on the short action calibers due to a different bolt stop.  In other words, the bolt throw (rearward travel) on the .270 will be longer than on the .308.
-Eric