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Thats in/lbs not lbs….thats not an uncommon torque spec for this bolt or assembly.
No different than an action screw directly to a chassis…metal to metal contact. -
M6 x 20mm trigger assembly screw has a recommended torque of 55-65 in-lbs to the action.
Aftermarket trigger manufacturers are also recommending this torque spec in their replacement kits.
Heres a link to one aftermarket kit so you can verify… -
I totally get where your coming from…BUT…Lol, not to sound like a know it all…I would strongly advise on ditching / selling the WM components you have and start with a WSM platform because I know you will want the all around best shooting platform in the future.
Quick story…I bought my 300wsm about 5 years ago and at the same time a buddy bought a 300wm.
His reasoning for not buying a WSM at the time was shortage & variety of ammo, which at the time the argument had some merit…and he was also bias to the WM
My reasoning, I will hand-load all ammo for the gun so I wasn't worried and knew the WSM was easier to load with the case design.Now 5 years later after shooting both guns…My buddy (who now handholds as well) wished he'd bought the WSM for these reasons:
– Factory ammo is now more available
– For whatever reason the WSM seems to be more accurate with factory ammo and especially handholds
– Brass is now more ready available for reloading.
– WSM is cheaper to load if you shoot alot
– He hates resizing and reloading belted WM cases
– Much easier to tune a load with the WSMHe's not the first guy I've run into that's switched from a WM to a WSM…so there seems to be a common theme if your a gun nut and actually shoot them.
If you are truly set and love the WM then I would not even think about changing and continue down your path and build the gun your heart is set on… BUT, if you want what I think will truly make you happy shooting at the range, grated I only know from forum talks…build a 300wsm and start handloading, it will be the best platform for you…results can vary obviously but you handload ammo and i know from experience that any handloader will choose the WSM over a WM pretty much everyday with all things factored in.
Something to think about…
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Makes sense if you have some components already…will be cheaper to build for sure… with the same results in the end. Good luck.
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Have ruled out a 300wsm? we get better accuracy and easier to handload…
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Load to max mag length over 25.5grs of Varget (+/-) .2grs….its been a perfect combo in every 8 twist 223 T3…velocity will be around 2950-3000fps.
If you like the 60gr Amax…try the Nosler 60gr BT Spitzer,…tips are more consistent and better accuracy.
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Its really falling off thats forsure!
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I see no advantage of buying a TAC versus a Varmint, and have actually found the Varmint models to be the best range guns across multiple calibers.
The Tac is a overpriced gun in my opinion…surprised its actually sells so well with the Varmint and super Varmint options available…Its amazing what happens when you coat a gun all black and put the word “TAC” in the name…wallets jump right out of pockets!
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I shoot a 300wsm with the new ELD Match 208gr & ELDx 200gr for long range hunting and targets…with the factory 11 twist barrel and have no issues stabilizing the bullet…its a great projectile for my gun and H4831sc.
Both the 300WM and 300WSM share the same factory barrel twist so I'd give these projectiles a chance if you can find factory Hornady ammo. If hand loading setting depth is a huge factory for these projectiles to really gain accuracy…so can't confirm what factory ammo will perform like for you.
Pretty sure Hornady also offers the 195gr ELD match in 300WM as well…
What my gun will do with reloads using 208gr ELDx…11 twist barrel
https://tikkashooters.com/public_html/general-discussion/anyone-playing-with-hornady's-new-eld-eldx-bullets-yet/msg9636/#msg9636
Look at post 15 for target at 100yrds -
Just add aluminum pillars and a metal trigger guard bottom if you have the synthetic stock…
You can bed the stock but its not worth the effort, there was no additional accuracy gain when I experimented with it versus just adding pillars…
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I think we are good as long as its not a barrel or action…
Give the guys at Mountain Tactical a call and tell them you want to send some parts to Canada and see what they say…list or explain the parts.
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Will you ship to Toronto Canada?
If so…I will buy… -
You would be better off ordering a laminated stock from a supplier like Boyds and getting a custom LOP.
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I think you are confused on what we are calling pinch point…its not a pressure point in the barrel channel (thats different all together)…The pinch point I'm referring too is the first few inches in front of the action…slide paper done the barrel of your rifle and you will see what I mean…it slightly varies on all the synthetic stocks from Varmint, CTR, and Lite barrels based on the cut…you will see variances between the various gun models.
Lite barrel guns seeming to have the tightest fit in this area (from experience), paper will stop in a different spot an the CTR and Varmint stocks…even the slightest change here will give you the messed up accuracy results you experienced. ONLY T3 “wood” stocks seem to be somewhat consistent in this area.Sure…you can fit a “lite” barrel into any T3 stock but POI and harmonics will change from stock to stock based on this pinch point, thats why most of free float the barrels right to the action if the gun doesn't shoot and do load development after this mod. Its gives the best repeatable action seating coupled with a “metal” bottom plate.
Like you said, lets not beat a dead horse…its obvious I can't make understand what I'm trying to describe to you regarding your test..and what we have tested to be true on all other T3 rifles…
Let agree to disagree…but can other people with T3 experience chim in on what i'm describing…
