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This is a great scope, I'd by it from you in heart beat if you could ship to Canada.
Good luck with the sale.

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Might be nothing wrong with the gap but I would do what Eric suggested…take the gun apart and check the lug area…if possible install the old lug, scribe or mark or line on the back side of the lug, remove and insert the new one and do the same…compare them side by side to see if there is any difference, crude method but should identify any major problem right away.

You could also try a little dab of modelling clay near the lug & action screw to see if the action is seating correctly when you torque the gun to correct specs…just enough so it will fully crush.

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T3x brochure…

http://cdn1.tikka.fi/sites/default/files/Tikka_Export2016.pdf

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Improvements:

– Steel recoil Lug
– Metal bolt shroud
– Changeable grip
– Proper recoil pad
– Word is… it's now fitted with a FREE FLOATED BARREL ON THE SYNTHETIC STOCK (need to see it to fully believe it, but makes you wonder about those so called “planned” pinched points on the previous synthetic stock to help with accuracy….  ;)…)

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Not an english video but figured I'd post it anyhow…

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hl4UeGVjyQA

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Good post Eric. You can pick up some nice tricks and info from these guys…

These 6.5 guys are enjoying life way too much!

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Nice group for factory ammo… 

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Jason,

I need on for my 308…can you post a picture of the new low profile mags in an actual rifle.
I searched the great Google for one but no luck.

Thx.

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Thanks for posting this…I like the improvements, looks like they really listened to us buyers regarding the small things we all gripe about.

I really like the changeable grip option on the synthetic stock, great idea to integrate that into the line.

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You should be using a bushing that is .002-.003 smaller then the OD neck size of a loaded round that chambers in your rifle.  Sounds like the bushing you have is far too large to provide any neck tension at all if you can actually press a bullet in the case manually by hand…measure a factory round, if possible with the same brass and bullet type you plan on using to get the best starting point… if possible.

You also have to note that various brands of brass will have different wall thicknesses so a bushing you may use for Hornady brass + bullet combo may not work with Lapua Brass + bullet combo…

BUT…If you neck size your brass you can use the same bushing, its the only way to have consistent neck tension across various brands. 

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I've only seen him shoot his rifle out as far as 200yrds at the range, we don't hunt together so have not had a chance to shoot with him at greater distances…its been a pretty consistent Moa shooter on most groups I've seen him shoot at both 100 and 200yrds at the range though.  You would only get it better with handloads…

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I hope we can agree to disagree…
Here's 5 of my personal Synthetic Stock T3's that I shoot on a regular basis…
All 5 free floated barrels give a consistent shooting base for developing handloads, with no worry of harmonic changes from stock flex or obstructions in the barrel channel, I only need to worry about heat soak… All 5 guns did shoot Moa or sub-Moa groups as TIKKA claimed before floating the barrels,  but for every good group you would have twice as many with fliers and situations similar to double grouping caused by stock on barrel contact from heat or fixing the stock on bags or bipod, none of that after the barrels were floated.

Each of these rifles will receive a full action bedding or complete stock change if there is any stock compression issue in the future degrading accuracy,… Thats the only time you need to bed these stocks, is if you already have compressed or damaged the action/mag area and can't get a correct solid repeatable action seating & torque setting…you don't need to jump right into a full bedding job if you float the barrel and accuracy improves…thats my approach with these synthetic stocks.  It may go against the grain on most traditional thinking but these 5 rifles (even the Battue) can punch a 3 shot single hole group quite often  at 100 with handloads…the same approach as worked for numerous friends and guys at my range.  So I'm not spreading or selling snake oil, just a lot of experience with these guns.

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Sorry forgot to add before…

My buddy shoots both Hornady SST 154gr & 162gr ammo in his T3…I know its been the most accurate for him.  He doesn't buy any other brand of factory ammo for the gun,..I don't know if one shoots better or not…but I can ask him for you.

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Try shooting 3 quick shots as fast as you can confidently at the same POI…it seems to be the best way to get a good group with magnum calibers…  it works for me and the guys that I shoot with.  I'm assuming you are shooting a Lite barrel…

This is our routine before hunting season, for factory bullets and shooting groups with the big calibers…we think it represents a more realistic hunting situation when you need to be quick on follow up shots.  Very rarely will you have time to sit and scope an animal for multiple shots.  Its happens but its rare.

– Shoot 1 round into a shoot-n-see target, not worrying where it impacts as long as its clearly visible. 
– Release the clip and reload for total 3 rounds…
– Wait 10-15 minutes
– Then shoot 3 shots as fast as possible using the cold bore shot marker as you point of aim.  Its easier to quickly centre on the first illuminated bullet impact versus trying to focus on lines or other points in the target. 

Try and see if it helps with previous ammo you have tested…

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Jason,

Will you be selling these in the store?  Price?
I need a smaller capacity mag for my 308…