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Thats a bummer…

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I agree with Dimwit…we need to know the velocity of the load to see what it should be doing…

I can also tell you that shooting 500-600yrds is a chip shoot compared to 1000-yrds, so many factors come into play after 500yrds… that could account for the OP's success at 1000.  If you gun isn't hitting consistent groups under MOA at 500, don't expect to hit a MOA or larger sized targets at 1000, with wind, etc…

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Is it dropping 6moa @ 100yrds or elevating….only ask because if its elevation, thats not such a bad thing if you plan on keeping the suppressor on and are into long range shooting.  6″ POI shift sounds like a lot but its not unheard of when adding a suppressor, various designs and brands will all have varying POI shifts.

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Here's the drop chart out to 500yrds @ 3700fps…
Only a 7″ drop at 300 when zeroed at 100…that is pretty much perfect for varmint & predator hunting.

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I'm sure you could substitute another primer…I like CCI…but I'm sure what ever you have readily available will work…nothing wrong with Federal though, but I would stick with 4064 and wait for it.

Loads posted are directly from a web source…just to give you an idea on where to start, you will find something that comes together playing between 37-39grs, shouldn't be too hard to dial it in.
Its going to be a laser out to 300yrds with that bullet!

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Exactly what Larkin said for accuracy…it greatly improves your reloading.

Here's the tool I use for flash hole and relieving the pocket edge, cheap Lyman…works great for both the flash hole and knocking down the pocket on a 223 case…perfect size.

See example pictures of the flash hole reaming and the pocket edges knocked down (the the example has too much cut IMO but gives you the idea of what you need to do…) for easy primer loading.

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Here's some load data to get you started…see attached.
4064 is known to be really accurate in 243 with the lighter bullets, i would go with that over 4095
I'd start at 37grs and work up from there if you aren't worried about velocity…

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Thats a great 5 shot group!

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This is a common problem you can run into between different brass lots…
The easiest way to fix the problem is just relieve the edge of the primer pocket with your chamfer/deburring tool…just a light twist to knock off the straight /sharp edge on the pocket, you are not removing much material here at all, just knocking off the lip creating a slight ramp.
Once you do this the sharp edge on the primer will not jam up on the rim of the primer pocket.

Hornady brass is excellent for reloading, I use it all the time for my 223.
Your load data is pretty much on par with what most of us have found with Varget and projectiles in the 70-80gr range.  Sounds like you have it dialed in and it shoots great.

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I'm a Varget lover…and have been using it in my 223 T3 Varmint (8 twist) for the last couple of years.
I shoot 75gr Amax and 80.5 Fullbore Bergers with MOA or better results out to 1000yrds when wind is favourable.

BUT…I have been doing a lot of research on 8208 XBR and plan on trying it this summer when my Varget stock pile subsides.  Everything I've been told and read suggest it's just as temp stable as Varget, yet it meters better, + or – a few FPS difference than Varget and it can be more accurate.  A few people have said
you can achieve better velocities with less pressure issues, will have to test that for myself before I believe it.

I know a few reloaders that thought Varget was the best thing since sliced bread, but they are now shooting
8208 XBR for there accuracy loads….go figure.

I think you are on the right track trying this powder.
I plan on giving it a try myself so I can't say anything bad about it.
It should will work great shooting the 75gr + projectiles.  Please share your load data and results.

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Looking forward to seeing what you come up with.

Me and few buddies played around with a similar project a few years ago.  We didn't have a mill available so we used the widest (3 screw) scope ring we could find… then we cut / grinded down (removed the seat / channel) where the scope would sit) and then tig welded a flat bracket to it.  All this fit snuggly underneath a scope using medium to high rings. After some sanding and painting it looked great. Then we used a case similar to an Outer box setup that screw mounted directly to a vertical bracket we made….recoil wasn't an issue but you would jump off the target and have to re-aquire it again with larger calibers.

The biggest disadvantage we found in trying to work with a side mount aiming camera was the constant “extreme” adjustment needed at different ranges, using it as a camera to “view” the target and using it as an “aiming” device are two completely different scenarios …even a few yards difference would make the POA shift alot, the 4-6″ side offset from the bore made adjusts at different ranges really difficult as opposed to normal scope elevation adjustments…in the end that ultimately killed the project for us.  Later on we went to the in line scope mounting solutions where there are no camera adjustments, only scope adjustments like any other day at the range.

The side setup worked great for a target cam though….basically we made exactly what you see in the 2 attached photos….you can now buy everything we made in our garage years ago.

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Hey Eric,

I have an “Iscope” that I use with my 300wsm directly on the scope, I just move the scope forward…if you have room to move your scope forward I can't see any reason why it wouldn't work for you too.
Works pretty well once you get it setup, I do recommend wrapping your scope in electrical tape or something similar where it attaches…The design works well being directly attached to the scope under recoil, don't think you will find a side mounted design that will hold up to anything larger then a 223 caliber…

This is the best one on the market right now in my opinion…http://www.g-line.net…Might not be the exact thing you are looking for but it does work very well.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2eecxAYvHqA

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I own a Battue in 308 and its a beauty to carry in the bush.
The sights are awesome, probably the easiest and best fast target acquisition on market.

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Can't help you with load specifics for the powder you mentioned but can try to help…

I've had great success and accuracy with 2 projectiles for long range shooting with my T3 223 Varmint.

75gr Amax – I've had really good success pushing this bullet @ 2875-2900fps.
– .030 off the lands
– Varget @ 25.2grs
– Brass / Hornady
***MAX LOAD***
Here's a link to my range test…good read.
https://tikkashooters.com/public_html/general-discussion/75gr-amax-range-test-tikka-223-load-data-200-yrd-groups/

80.5gr Fullbore Berger – Same success with accuracy just little slower @ 2800-2850fps
– .030 off the lands
– Varget @ 24.5-25grs
– Brass / Hornady
***MAX LOAD***

I've shot both these loads out 900yrds with sub MOA groups.  The Amax's are the best for accuracy but you need to inspect everyone you load to make sure the tip is centric.  If not, you won't get single hole or touching groups @ 100…The Bergers are great, I have never had a issue with any projectile yet but they are less accurate then the Amax's out of my gun…I'm talking mm at 100, but a noticeable difference out past 500yrds.  Some guys have the Bergers shooting better but for me and my gun it was not the case.  Maybe a powder change would impact my results but will not stray from using Varget.

Hit me up if you have any Questions. 
One thing I can tell you that improved my reloading that lead to much better accuracy was getting correct case trim so my neck tension was more consistent.  I bought trimmers that measure from the shoulder of the case versus over all length.  It really improves your SD & ES numbers which increases your accuracy greatly for long range shooting.  Did this for my 223 and 308 target shooting, 1 for each caliber.
https://littlecrowgunworks.com/product/worlds-finest-trimmer-wft/

Eric… may be able to share some load data as well, he was also testing these bullets as well out of his Sporter with great results.

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The hats are tough to fine sometimes…you should be able to find them on Ebay though.

I can get them from “Sail” which is a Canadian store like Cabela's & Bass Pro…