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The barrels are different….the varmint is usually longer and with a thicker profile.
The CTR barrel is almost a compromise between the Lite and Varmint profiles, similar to the Tac model…

See attached….

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I have a 308 CTR and enjoy it for both hunting and target shooting.  Its super accurate…
You can justify the cost if you want a duel purpose rifle for both hunting and target shooting.
The barrel is better than the lite barrel for shot strings and the bottom metal and 10 capacity mag is nice though expensive.

BUT,… if I was doing it over again (purchasing a T3 308) I would most likely buy the varmint model and build around the factory action and barrel.  I've done this with a 300wsm varmint and its proven to be a top performer for both long range target shooting and hunting, though it is little heavy to carry…I'm extremely confident every time I pull the trigger so I tend to live with the added weight.

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A few guys on the forum have done really well in competition with a stock Varmint or Super Varmint model…
These guys are hand loading though.

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Hey Larkin,

I was sonic cleaning brass for a couple years and was really never impressed with it…tried just about every solution out there as well as homemade cleaners…but noting really gave me the level of cleaning I was looking for so I switched to wet tumbling and have never looked back.

I was in the same situation as you…unhappy with the results using a Hornady sonic cleaner to clean brass for a couple buddies as well as my own and it was a constant struggle to keep up (we were shooting a lot) and get good results.  I looked at wet media stainless steel pins and ended building my own tumbler in the end to do the volume I wanted.  Built a pretty good tumbler that is still going strong and I can take care of all our brass usually in one clean every couple of months (1500-2000pcs).

I can't say enough good things about wet tumbling…it is the best method that I have experimented with and  I'm always shocked at how good it cleans brass…better then newly opened boxes of ammo!  The stuff honestly looks like jewelry when you take it out. 

You seem to be pretty picky like me so I can give good advice…Stop trying to find solutions to improve sonic cleaning, it can only get so good….it will never be close to perfect on any level.

Hers's a link to the tumbler I built and the results on cleaning…https://tikkashooters.com/public_html/general-discussion/diy-brass-tumber/

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Hey George,

Considering the choices you mentioned, I would go with the VX3…
Not saying the Crossfire is a bad scope or poor choice, but don't think its in the same class as the VX3 for glass if you are trying to decide between the the 2.

4 -14x is a perfect magnification for hunting anything in the 300yrd range you mentioned, and you can easily stretch that distance out further for sure.

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Guys hand loading have been shooting up to near a 180gr bullets with the same twist…you will have no trouble with a 162gr ELDx…

The Nosler LR AB 175gr (BC-.672) is supposed to be pretty slick out of a factory T3 barrel with the right load.

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One thing i can add that will help make your setup more accurate…I have years of experience with BDC scopes.  Verify and adjust your scope at a longer range then 200yrds, …meaning…

Your BDC will never be as accurate as a “long range” click dial MOA scope.  It could always be off by a multiplying factor of inches as you increase shooting ranges from 100 – 200 – 300 – 400 – 500 yrds…so what is zeroed at 100 yrds maybe be off as much at 12″ or more at 400 or 500 yrds when you keep multiplying the degree or error/difference in the BDC reticle and your load.

I have shot Nikon BDC scopes for years and we always sighted in at 400-500yrds after you get the gun grouping well at 100 or 200 yrds…once you establish a zero at 100 or 200yrds re-adjust your scope so you are hitting centre on targets at longer ranges…this will slightly shift your previous zero point but it will even out the errors / difference at multiple ranges and make the BDC more accurate.  This may change your POI 1-2″ at 100 / 200yrds, something easy to compensate for and it will make the combo more accurate at extend ranges.

I hope I explained this well enough so you understand…

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1000yrds…!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=20Fp239bERs

This is the same load (only different is I use Hornady brass) that I have shot and verified to be MOA or sub MOA out of my 223 – 8 twist Varmint.  Shoots almost as well in my 223 – 8 twist lite as well…
I have personally shot this load out to 900yrds on 12″ target under good conditions with consecutive hits in a 6″ ring…

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I have never crimped any ammo I have made for bolt action rifles.
For both hunting and target shooting purposes…and have never had an issue.

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I try to stick to all temp stable powders for any load that I know I'll be shooting all year round on paper or hunting… makes it easy to adjust with small +/- powder changes to account for weather / conditions.

I load Varget for all 223 target loads…here are the basic details on 3 loads…

75gr Amax / 25-25.5grs Varget / approximate .030 off riffling…NEED longer capacity mag for this load or single load.

80.5gr Berger / 24.5 – 25grs Varget / approximate .030 off riffling…NEED longer capacity mag for this load or single load.

60gr Nosler BT Spitzer / 25.5grs Varget / max mag length that will work with factory mag and chamber in rifle.

Good luck with your handholds, these will be good start if you have Varget available.

Here's a thread you may want to check out:
https://tikkashooters.com/public_html/general-discussion/75gr-amax-100yrd-groups-load-data-for-tikka-223/

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I've reworded Step 5…hopefully it clears up your question…

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That shouldn't be there, should be clean.  Remove it.

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i just gave mine a really good clean first then just took it out and shot it and then gave it a really good clean when finished it shoots 3 shot clover leafs so dont think a beaking in proceedure would improve it much thats just my rifle tho

Pretty much what I've done with 7 T3 rifles I own…clean before shooting a box of ammo…shoot 10rds, clean and shoot 10 more…1 final clean before I start working up handholds…Have not had an issue breaking any gun in this way whatsoever…but everyone has their own way.

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Here's the one I settled on for my 300wsm…I tested a few designs and this was by far the best brake for both recoil reduction and accuracy…Quatromax Muzzle Brake…
No muzzle jump, straight recoil and it tames the gun with 180-200gr handloads down to what seems like a 223-243…But its friggin LOUD!!!

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K22 is correct…pillar bedding is all you need…unless its a custom stock and you want to go all the way.

If using the factory stock in either wood or synthetic, don't think you will see an accuracy gain between pillar bedding or full action bedding.  I would start off with pillar bedding, see if it makes a difference or improvement in accuracy and then determine if full bedding is even necessary.  But if you have the time and want to do a full bedding job don't let us stop you.

Lots of info on bedding the Lug if you search…using tape or a shim and super gluing it to the action before bedding.

Good luck.