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105 Bullseyes
Solid advice!
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105 Bullseyes
If the OP is getting into “target shooting” and then hunting 2nd…the scope magnification is a conversation forsure…2.5-10 is really only suited for 100yrds if shooting for accuracy, meaning groups…if just plinking shooting steel or larger targets then he can get by and stretch that out forsure…but again, its not the ideal choice if target shooting but an “excellent” choice for hunting.
The 4-16 x 44mm might have been a better pick in the Viper HS lineup to get the best of both worlds.
Anyone i've ever known who goes to the range to target shoot does not settle on a low powered scope…they end up buying another scope pretty quickly if they can afford it. -
105 Bullseyes
All good advice above…but the only thing I would add, just speaking from experience… if you plan on using the rifle for primarily target shooting and occasional hunting I would upgrade the rings for repeated range use. The factory rings are hit or miss with rifles in the 30cal category. I personally have had 2 sets fail or not hold zero so I just stopped trying to work with them. not too many bad experiences with smaller cals…
The cheapest, best mounting solution I have found is from DNZ…it would serve you well for both range and hunting situations…you can most likely get away with using a low mount with a 44mm objective to bring the scope as low as possible to the bore as mentioned above.
https://www.amazon.com/Game-Reaper-Tikka-T3-Low-Mount/dp/B00403X4AGThe scope you have chosen is a great scope and probably the best magnification you can buy for hunting…I have a 2.5 x 10 Prostaff5 on one of my 308's and it a great bush gun for whitetail hunting. No issues with close shots, and comfortable out to 400 yards on deer size targets.
At some point you will want more magnification…I guarantee it! -
105 Bullseyes
Is the case shoulder getting pushed back far enough?
I was thinking the same thing…the only time i've had brass chambering issues is when there was an issue with shoulder…
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MemberMarch 13, 2017 at 8:31 pm in reply to: Tikka factory rings, use or replace with Talleys? 105 Bullseyes
Art,
Don't worry about a little weight added in the mounting department for the good setup…Take a look at the DNZ 1 piece T3 mount if you are looking for a solid lightweight mount that I know from experience will hold up to the recoil on your rifle…I've installed a few for my friends and have nothing bad to say about it…holds great, with no lapping.
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Dog Down
MemberMarch 9, 2017 at 6:33 pm in reply to: Tikka factory rings, use or replace with Talleys? 105 Bullseyes
Hi Art,
Welcome to the forum…
I'm also shooting a 300wsm (I have both the Lite and Varmint models) and can tell you from experience you will get scope movement if you don't go with a good quality ring. The factory rings are not that great and you may find yourself chasing accuracy…the factory receiver groove and ring combo will not hold up on your 300wsm…your POI will change and you may actually see scope creep with the factory rings.
I have Leupold PWR's on my Lite model and Nightforce on my varmint…both attached to a MT rail from the Tikka store. Rock solid mounting…
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105 Bullseyes
I think you are on the right track…
I don't think you will find a better projectile than the old Hornady 75gr Amax or the new 75gr ELD match for a factory rifle setup…obviously custom target guns setup to run 90gr projectiles are in a totally different realm then we are talking here.
I've tested just about everything available up to 80.5grs in my 223, and finding the 75gr Amax projectile to be the best combo if you weight sort and inspect everything in the load… the 75gr projectiles shoot like a dream out to 1000yrds. Its is by far the easiest and most accurate projectile I have loaded in my T3 “once” you find the sweet spot for the gun for both COAL and charge weight… If I play with the charge weight +/- to compensate for temp and weather my gun is a consistent Moa shooter out to 1000yrds.
I've altered my factory mag to accept the longer OAL, so its great for long range predator hunting.
I shoot the 75gr Amax (will be switching to the new ELD) with 25-25.5grs Varget…25.2-25.3grs being the perfect sweet spot…I increase or decrease the load by .2grs to dial in different conditions…
Even though Varget is considered temp stable, the small change in charge weight does help to get the rifle shooting best and consistent from summer to winter shooting.I pretty much only shoot 60gr Noslers and 75gr Amax through my 223…Both extremely accurate loads.
See attached for load development on the 75gr Amax and how they seat in altered factory mag. -
Dog Down
MemberFebruary 26, 2017 at 11:38 pm in reply to: Best factory bullet in your Tikka T3 in cal. 300WM – Accuracy 105 Bullseyes
The 180gr Accubond is excellent for just about everything! My go to bullet for handloads…
My hunting recipe for my 300WSM: 180grAccubond / 66.6grs H4831sc / Winchester brass…I've played with the LR Accubond with very good results but they are hard to find on the shelves anywhere in Canada.
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MemberFebruary 24, 2017 at 4:41 pm in reply to: Best factory bullet in your Tikka T3 in cal. 300WM – Accuracy 105 Bullseyes
Try these if you have not already…you gun should like one of them forsure, not cheap but good.
I've shot both the Barnes and Federal in my 300WSM and it liked both…
FYI – I've heard only positive reviews with Hornady's new ELD and ELDx ammo shot through a T3…BARNES TTSX BT – 180gr
Very, very accurate factory ammo…FEDERAL Trophy Bonded Tip – 180gr
Again, very accurate factory ammo…Hornady ELDx – 200gr
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105 Bullseyes
Welcome…
I hear similar stories from most people who actually give the T3 a chance…If you are an honest unbiased person I can't see how anyone could not buy a T3 after they have handled the gun and compare other guns in its price range.
The only thing I wish and hope they upgrade in the future is being able to unload the gun with safety on… It would be nice, I can't see this upgrade blowing up the price since they already have the design on other rifles in the TiKKA / SAKO family….
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105 Bullseyes
2700-2800fps for 80.5gr Bergers…Approximate 24.5-25grs of Varget to get this velocity.
You will have to single load these because of length…will not fit standard mag.In my experience the 75gr Amax is the perfect long range projectile though…even though I had a bad lot of projectiles with non centric tips… but that problem seemed to be only batch related. If you can find them with the new ELD tips buy as many as you can…
2800-2900fps for 75gr Amax, this is my bullet of choice when I have the time to weight sort and inspect each projectile…accuaracy and ballistics are better if you want to stretch the gun out to 1000 yards…
25-25.5grs of Varget will get you in the sweet spot…
You will have to single load these because of length…will not fit standard mag. -
105 Bullseyes
These guys stole my fix…lol…but its good video for anyone having the same issue with mags unseating themselves and it only adds credibility to the fix I came up with and the design flaw I pointed out in the magazine when the rifles first came to market.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ArRSTldT86Q -
Dog Down
MemberFebruary 16, 2017 at 5:10 pm in reply to: Steel bottom metal / trigger guard for the T3 ? 105 Bullseyes
All good arguments…I for one would love to see more aftermarket parts available.
I'm all about balance and weight on a rifle for both range shooting and hunting so thats why I'm basis to aluminum, its done everything I've wanted it to do.If a steel bottom metal would add durability and function to a rifle the same as the current aluminum aftermarket parts then I think it would come down to personal preference.
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MemberFebruary 13, 2017 at 10:13 pm in reply to: Steel bottom metal / trigger guard for the T3 ? 105 Bullseyes
What would the benefit of producing these in steel over the few aluminum upgrades already available on the market?
I know from personal experience the aluminum product for from Mountain Tactical:
https://tikkaperformance.com/index.php?_route_=tikka-t3/tikka-t3-oem-parts/tikka-t3-bottom-metal
is perfect for fit, strength, function and quality…honestly don't think you can make a better bottom metal to replace the stock unit.I would think price point would be the only thing that would temp a consumer to buy steel…that being said, not many of us like the factory trigger guard design versus aftermarket. Most of the aftermarket options have redesigned it in some way to make it more functional by making it a little larger.
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105 Bullseyes
I had similar issues with a T3 lite…I'll try to dig some old information discussed here on the forum.
Make sure the reinforcement wall on the front sling swivel in the barrel channel is not touching the barrel.
Try increasing the torque on action screws if you haven't reached 45in/lbs…if you are only at 30-35in/lbs
try 40 then 45in/lbs to see if it makes a difference with the current load.Could be just a bad match with the load combo you are trying.