[dimwit]

Build one! It's not much more than the factory model.

[dimwit]

Update:

Slapped the CTRx stock/dbm on my .22-250 varmint model, and it's running fine so far, with one exception. The bolt doesn't travel back far enough to grab the round if it's seated to the rear of the magazine.

I had heard that GRS ships a different bolt stop with the Bolthorn chassis that allows for an extra 2mm of extra travel, so I threw the calipers on there, and it came out to .080″ on the dot. Looks like GRS knows what they're doing. Unfortunately the factory bolt stop doesn't have enough meat to be cut back that far, so I'll have to get something else, or shim the rear of the magazine to let the round sit that much further forward. Other than that, runs like a champ.

I'm not sure about DogDown's experience as I actually couldn't replicate the problem he had.  I'll probably end up getting the actions modified anyway, just to be on the safe side.

Just need another one for my creedmoor now. 🙂

[dimwit]

I had a feeling. Thanks!

[dimwit]

Yeah, I'm aware of that. My main concern is regarding whether the CTR/TRG mag will seat properly against a standard T3 action.

[dimwit]

Anyone else mind weighing in? Particularly on the first question.

[dimwit]

Froglube is great for ARs and pistols, and it smells great, but I personally prefer a heavy grease for my bolt guns. Thinner/lighter lubricants can allow the lugs to gall over time. Most bolt guns prefer to be pretty dry, in my experience. I put a dab of grease behind each bolt lug, and on the cocking ramp, then another little dab on the raceway. Oil isn't thick enough for this application, and it attracts dirt. As far as the bore goes, don't feel like you have to scrub it every time you shoot it. For precision rifles it's generally best to leave a little fouling in there. Unless accuracy starts to drop off, you probably don't need to clean the bore more than every 3-500 rounds. Your rifle will tell you. Some really high end barrels like to be cleaned even less frequently than that!

The only cleaners/lubricants that I use on my bolt guns are Butch's bore shine, hi-slip moly grease for the lugs, and some generic light gun oil for after I deep-clean the bore every few hundred rounds. A nylon brush for the chamber can be helpful, and a quality brass jag for the bore. Get a one piece cleaning rod and a bore guide, and you're set.

[dimwit]

Nathan/IdahoCTD's brakes are excellent, and way too affordable. I almost think he does himself a disservice by pricing them so low. They're really outstanding.

[dimwit]

I don't have a stainless rifle, but I think that's sharp looking.

[dimwit]

All depends on your chamber. My 6.5 creed loads are 2.810″, and just barely fits the t3 magazine.

[dimwit]

There's no reason that round should be going transonic before 1000, unless your MV is like 2300fps or slower.  What twist rate is the barrel? Might just not like the SMK.

[dimwit]

beretta USA doesn't really care much about products that aren't $10k+ shotguns. They carry them because they have to, but don't put a lot of effort or thought into it.

[dimwit]

100gr is on the heavy side of what will stabilize in your 1/10″. That said, it should really sing in the 90gr area.

[dimwit]

I'll bet a Bushnell LRHS would be perfect.

[dimwit]

A little update:  MarineTex on the grip, HBRMS bipod, paint on the barrel/receiver, EGW 20moa rail, XTR rings.

[dimwit]

^ what he said.