[cb_tikka]

I tried years ago and couldn't find any. They only had them in Canada. I'm not even sure if some made it to the US. Euro Optic sells a Tikka CTR .260 with a 20″ barrel or the Sporter with a 24″.

[cb_tikka]

As said, POI will change. I did not notice any change in accuracy. If you want to spot your own hits, brakes (along with proper form) help a lot. Nice rifle OP.

[cb_tikka]

Because it says Tactical. It has phospate finish. The bolt has some sort teflon finish. I'm not sure the Tactical has a better action or barrel.

If you're looking for a .308, you'll be extremely lucky to find a new supervarmint or varmint. The CTRs are still available.

I was a Tikka-whore for a couple of years and had both but sold the Tactical to fund a custom 6.5 Creedmoor build. Performance-wise, they were the same for me.

[cb_tikka]

Tikkas don't really have heavy triggers to start with but you can adjust it to 2lbs. Maybe work on your trigger pull technique? You can also buy a YoDave trigger spring ($10) and go <1lb.

[cb_tikka]

I'll play. .308 Varmint, Whiskey 3 Chassis, all shots prone w/ rear bag and Atlas bipod. 168Amax from Southwest Ammo. The paper is my best group from 5 rounds of shooting.

paper target – 5 shot at 100 yards

steel gong – 10 shots (shiny hits) at 335 yards (BLM land)

[cb_tikka]

Have you tried replacing the vortex with a different scope? Chasing accuracy is a bitch so you have to be methodical.

[cb_tikka]

My 25-06 doesn't like Rem 100 or Hornady Superformance. Skip anything PRVI Partizan. For factory, the regular Hornady SST was good. The Superformance runs too hot.

[cb_tikka]

I am not an expert, but I suspect it is from a metal tool or rod or a stone. It might have occurred afield or in a vehicle — pointing the muzzle downward towards the floor  and acquiring a piece of gravel.

When was the ding first noticed? Has it effected accuracy/precision?

About the number of cleaning cycles mentioned: Anyone else care to address this?

I cleaned my Tikka once after the first 20 rounds. I clean somewhere between 100 and 200 rounds or when accuracy falls off. I use bore guides and a carbon rod. Only run patches.

[cb_tikka]

I used a drip of blue loctite and 20 in lbs in mine.

[cb_tikka]

Have you considered a Mike Lucas Bore guide? You just tell him the action and caliber.

[cb_tikka]

I have taken my T3 lite 25-06 to a 1000 with 2 hits in the 10 ring. Bone stock using Hornady 117 gr SST. It does heat up and start to string. 

[cb_tikka]

After market is metal. Supposedly, the plastic shroud can crack although I've never seen it in person. I have aftermarkets but it's more cosmetic than anything else.

[cb_tikka]

Talley or DNZ in lows or medium.

[cb_tikka]

The scout is plenty for 600 yards. For 1000 yards, a 24″ barrel would be better.

[cb_tikka]

Tozguy, I was referring to the issues Tikka/Sako had with some of the steel used for it's barrels(primarily ss) in 2004.  They were/could explode during firing.  It was a recall, and did not know if the finish of it's barrrels changed after the recall??  I also understand the recall was all complete and handled for those owners.  BTW I love my rifle and it performs perfectly.  I just noticed different finishes and I kinda prefer the smooth finish.  Just thought someone might know why the finish is different now and why? 
Thanks for the input.  I appreciate it!
RR

Well, mine was built in April 2004 and the “affected” barrels were made in Feb 2004 so I don't think that was the reason.