Member yukonal
MemberForum Replies Created
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Congrats on a very nice rifle, Eric. You'll have a ton of fun with that one.
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Sounds like I better make another couple dozen lugs. Then you can face off receivers and REALLY put together some sweet customs! ;D
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Great vid for anyone interested in the topic of cleaning guns…I respect this guys opinion on most anything involving firearms…
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uhTwVOh0_ikCleaning from the muzzle would leave a ton of solvent and crap in the action. What a pain to clean up, after the barrel is done. No thanks.
Lucas or Sinclair bore guide, Bore Tech Bore Stix rod, their proof positive jag, and Butch's Bore Shine.
Done…
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Sweet rifle! I have seen several 300 win mags and 338 mags (used) for sale at cabelas in elk river MN.
That would be…Rogers, MN. 😉
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I leave a pad under the shank.
If you set it up, and use it as a switch barrel, I'd just mill the pad out while cleaning up the bedding, leaving it free floating right up to the lug. That way, any tiny difference in the barrel(s) shank diameters wouldn't have any influence on the bedding/free floating of the barrel.
I have 2 .284's. One has a #5 Kreiger, the other has a #6.
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Mine measure:
.688″ at front, middle, and rear.
So call it .690″ and you'll be good.
All bore guides use an “O” ring up front, so size isn't extremely critical. And most manufacturers have the measurements already, for Tikka T3. You might want to get ahold of Mike Lucas. I like his guides.
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The pinned lug will not rotate when taking a barrel on and off. Therefor, the timing and relationship of the barrel, lug, and receiver will not change.
Without pinning, and having bedded the lug into the stock, can you imagine the nightmare of trying to get it back straight after disassembling the barrel from the rifle? if it was off a fraction of an inch after switching barrels, or taking the barrel off for whatever reason, you'd never get the barreled action back in the stock.
With the same action, lug, and stock, I can have a switch barrel rifle in 7MM-08, .308, 284, .243…and…well, you know where I'm going with it. Huge benefits for a switch barrel rifle.
Torque/recoil stability? I have no way of measuring, and could only give you a b.s. answer. 😉
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Eric, let me know if you need help. I can pick one up too, just to help you make the deal happen.
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Hunt with 'em. That's what they're made for.
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No it hasn't.
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Keep your good load and start going in. You'll see excellent results, and maybe good chrono numbers when you get to .010-.015″ off the lands…or what you call “jam”
80.5 FullBores are comparable to Hybrids, and shoot great with a slight jump.
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Do you have a trigger pull gauge to measure your adjustments? If not, this is all a moot point…you can't safely adjust your trigger.
That said, I've safely adjusted a dozen T3 triggers to between 1-1/2# and 1-3/4# with the factory adjustment screw…and a small trick.
I have a half dozen Ernie springs un-used in the toolbox, as I haven't needed them after I got the rifles “tuned” up.
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Two years ago we brought ALL our berms up to ABOVE NRA specifications. That means 80' tall. NRA guy came out and consulted. We also, keep stringent records…and police each other.
Our LE departments use our range to train, and we have a great relationship. BUT, you still can't take a chance in this day and age. If some idiot sends a bullet over a berm, there is 10 acres of houses behind us. It could shut us down for good.
And we've been told, we have one of the nicest facilities in the country.
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J,
I have 2 gun of the month's here on the site. “Big Louie”, and “The Beast”. Which one are you referring to?
My 'smith faces off the action, and double pins the lugs. Also the chambering. I do everything else.
Send me a pm, and we can talk about the lug. I may be able to part with one.
Al
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Don't forget to have it double pinned to the action.
I've had so many people contact me over the years, to buy one, but are too cheap to pay for what they're worth, I stopped trying to sell them. When I run out, I just have another run of them made…as I have the CNC program handy.
