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LOOKING FOR REM STYLE RECOIL LUG FOR T3
Hi All,
I'm new to the forum, but I'm a long time T3 owner and I currently run a .25-06 and a .300 Win Mag. I have recently bedded the .25-06 in a Boyds stock and now I'm on to the Win Mag. I have an A3 stock and I want to rebarrel with a heavier barrel. While I'm at it, I would like to fit a Rem style recoil lug with the same profile as the face of the action with the small transition machined off. Does anyone have such a thing or know someone who could supply one? Thanks in advance.
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11 Replies
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LOOKING FOR REM STYLE RECOIL LUG FOR T3
updated 8 years, 5 months ago
5Members
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11
Replies
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See link…
This guy knows a thing or 2 on the topic to say the least…Message him, I'm sure he can help you out.
Outstanding gun build that covers your question. -
Don't forget to have it double pinned to the action.
I've had so many people contact me over the years, to buy one, but are too cheap to pay for what they're worth, I stopped trying to sell them. When I run out, I just have another run of them made…as I have the CNC program handy.
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Thanks for the replies guys.
Yukonal – I'm not really sure what they are worth, but I would like to have one. If you have a spare I am a serious buyer and this item will be a small cost compared to the donor rifle, stock, new barrel and 'smithing work. By the way, do you do your own work, or do you have someone else do it? I ask as your .284 build is pretty much exactly what I am after.
Cheers
J -
J,
I have 2 gun of the month's here on the site. “Big Louie”, and “The Beast”. Which one are you referring to?
My 'smith faces off the action, and double pins the lugs. Also the chambering. I do everything else.
Send me a pm, and we can talk about the lug. I may be able to part with one.
Al
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Hi Al,
Thanks for the reply. I cannot see a PM button, so would you mind emailing me when you have time please?
Thanks
J -
yukonal has the ejection port on your action been opened up? i was thinking about doing it carnt find any info about anyone having done it. ragards swede
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No it hasn't.
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Al, sorry if I am asking an obvious question, but are the pins there to resist torque only?if so, how much does the action bolt's torque play a role in torque/recoil stability?
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The pinned lug will not rotate when taking a barrel on and off. Therefor, the timing and relationship of the barrel, lug, and receiver will not change.
Without pinning, and having bedded the lug into the stock, can you imagine the nightmare of trying to get it back straight after disassembling the barrel from the rifle? if it was off a fraction of an inch after switching barrels, or taking the barrel off for whatever reason, you'd never get the barreled action back in the stock.
With the same action, lug, and stock, I can have a switch barrel rifle in 7MM-08, .308, 284, .243…and…well, you know where I'm going with it. Huge benefits for a switch barrel rifle.
Torque/recoil stability? I have no way of measuring, and could only give you a b.s. answer. 😉
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Hi again Al. Having never owned a switch barrel rifle I have a question. Do you bed the first inch or so of the barrel parallel to help support the barrel weight, or are your barrels fully free floating? If the former, I suppose you simply have your smith turn the barrels down to the same profile and diameter each time so that they fit without needing re-bedding.
I'm planning on a Bartlein Medium Palma at 26 inches for my .300 Win Mag, so I would like to support the first inch to help remove weight and stress from the action. Out of interest, what profile is your .284 barrel.
Thanks in advance.
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I leave a pad under the shank.
If you set it up, and use it as a switch barrel, I'd just mill the pad out while cleaning up the bedding, leaving it free floating right up to the lug. That way, any tiny difference in the barrel(s) shank diameters wouldn't have any influence on the bedding/free floating of the barrel.
I have 2 .284's. One has a #5 Kreiger, the other has a #6.
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