Member ShtrRdy
MemberForum Replies Created
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Looks nice! How does she shoot?
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I've been thinking about buying one of these myself. I've got a 22-250 varmint model that I really like.
A $500 scope is tough. You might take a look at the Burris MTAC with the gen 2 mil-dot reticle. I've got one of those on an AR that seems to work nicely.
Do you have a bipod to prop the front end? Those are nice to have.
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It would be nice if this was under the Reloading section
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It would be nice if this was under the Reloading section
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Sounds like you're on to a great path. Have fun and keep us posted on your findings.
You may want to consider investing in some Lapua brass in .223 Rem to start out with. Then use good bullets from makers like Berger or Sierra.
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Is the TRG bedded into the chassis?
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It sure looks like there isn't enough force under the back end of the cartridge. The AR type of magazine take care of this issue by having an anti-tilt designed follower. Tikka mags don't have anything like that.
Maybe call Beretta customer service and see if they can help.
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I haven't seen an AICS AT stock but I have an AICS for my Remington clone .260. It's the 1.5 model and works great. A friend of mine has an AICS 2.0 for his Remington .300 Win Mag that he adores.
I suspect the AICS AT 2.0 will be as good as their previous models. The hinge has a very solid lock up. I didn't realize they offered one for the Tikka T3.
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If you want to push the long range aspects of the .223 you will want to use the heaviest bullet you can. Using a heavy bullet needs a faster twist, so that would point to the 1:8 choice.
Both of those scopes have a pretty high magnification on the low end so that's going to be a problem when used for hunting, ( from my experience )
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That's quite a detailed list FreedomWatchNZ! Thanks! – Todd
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I'll be interested in the answer too. I've been puzzled by how the T3 magazine is retained.
What part of NZ are you located? I'm in the US
– Todd
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Unfortunately this falls in the “cost of a higher education”.
Did they refund you the amount you spent? If so I would say that is excellent.
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Where did you get a Tikka CTR stock?
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The main reason for pillars is a solid connection between the mounting retainer, ( screw ), and the stock. For example, if you have a wood stock and really tighten the screws that hold the action into the stock, it's very likely that you will crush the wood. Also, over time, temperature, and humidity, the holding force between the wood and steel varies and may effect shot placement or precision.
I would go off of Manners recommendation and skip the pillars. But if you wanted to leave nothing to chance you could bed the action, with pillars, and a steel recoil lug. Then you should be good to go.
To answer your question, going with both pillars and lug would not be counter productive.
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Pete – have you tried taking your bolt apart to see if you can spot anything unusual? – Todd
