Member JackEllis490
MemberForum Replies Created
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I shot both a kudu and an oryx with 150 grain Core Lokts out of a .30-06. The good news was, they both died close to where I shot them. The bad news is, each one took three rounds, one of which was in the heart.
I suggest you use a 180 grain round.
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Completely off-topic but where in Canada are you and what's the season like for coyotes (or is there a season?).
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Something that would be nice to have is a bipod. Harris is a good choice or if you have some extra $$ then go with an Atlas.
I don't own a bipod but my rifles are mostly for hunting and unless I'm shooting from a bench, I'm shooting prone, from sticks, or more recently from a tripod. If you only shoot prone or shoot targets from a bench, a bipod may be all you need. If you need to shoot sitting or kneeling (not uncommon when hunting), then sticks are more versatile, at the expense of some stability. If you have to stand because you're in tall grass, then I recommend the Vanguard T62 tripod. It's inexpensive and worked well for me shooting squirrels last weekend.
My bench shooting is for sighting in and testing hand loads. If you're going to hunt, it's pretty tough to find a shooting bench in the woods.
One thought regarding rifle scope power. Keep in mind that the higher the power, the smaller your field of view. One of the things you want to practice for hunting is keeping the power low to find your target, and then twisting the power knob to “get closer”. Also learn about the markings on your reticle and how they can be used to range the target if you have an idea of its size.
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You want the scope as close to the top of the receiver as possible, which argues for smaller tubes and no rail. If you're hunting with your '06, a scope with a magnification range of 2.5-8 or 9 power is very adequate and these can be had in tube sizes less than 40 MM. You might try the factory rings (I assume they still ship with the new T3x rifles) but if you want to use high quality steel mounts, try these http://warnescopemounts.com/tikka-mounts/
Both the factory rings and the Warne rings screw down tight at the sides of the rings. You do not screw them into the top of the receiver. There is a recoil lug on one of the rings (front one I believe) that must fit into a receiving hole on the top of the receiver. It's what keeps the rings from moving all over the place due to recoil. Look at the photo about half way down this page where Tikka talks about its improved mounting system: http://www.tikka.fi/rifles/tikka-t3x It's the bigger hole smack in the middle of the photo.
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Would you be willing to tell us why?
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Some folks dislike the T3's aluminum scope rings. I used them on a .243 and had no problem. You can find aftermarket rings made specifically for Tikkas from Warne that use the dovetail on top of the receiver. Just make sure you put the correct ring in front and have the lug fit into the hole.
I believe the only change to the receiver was to increase the size of the ejection port to make single loading easier.
Get yourself a Pelican case. They are not cheap, but they are very durable and they are also perfect for rifles that get put in the holds of airplanes.
All of my rifles have slings made by sloganoutdoors (www.sloganoutdoors.com). They don't slip.
The only accessory I would recommend is some reactive targets if you have a place where you can use them. The self-healing kind move, while gongs provide instant feedback. They offer some variety instead of always punching paper.
I believe the T3X has a better recoil pad than the T3s did so no need to replace it with a Limbsaver.
Let us know how you like your '06. I have a Winchester 670 in that caliber and although I've been very successful with it, I don;t enjoy shooting it as much as the two Tikkas I own (in smaller calibers).
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Is the case shoulder getting pushed back far enough?
It wasn't, because I didn't set the die up properly. All it took was another quarter turn of the die in the press. I now have more .243 cases than I'll use in the next three lifetimes.
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I know of someone who had a Tikka in 7mm-08 and claimed he had zero problems with the factory rings. I have Tikkas in .243 and .223 and so far my accuracy problems are all with the shooter, not the rings. with heavier calibers, it might be a different story.
My suggestion: try the factory rings after making sure they're installed and torqued correctly
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I also live in California and also live a ways from the nearest store. PM me when you have a moment and I'll tell you how I've dealt with the problem.
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Well, don't keep us in suspense. What caliber did the two of you choose?
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I read lots of griping about the polycarbonate magazines but I view them as an advantage. Metal mags can bend if they're abused, in which case I'd imagine they become useless. Polycarbonate isn't unbreakable, but it is very tough.
If my trigger guards and bolt shrouds ever break, I'll just replace them.
My big game rifle is a 40 year old Winchester 670 in .30-06. If I was a younger man and not quite so cheap, I'd consider replacing it with a Tikka in a suitable caliber.
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Apparently the Compact does not come in stainless steel but the Lite does. Here's the spec sheet: http://cdn1.tikka.fi/sites/default/files/technicalspecs_t3x_lite_stainless_0.pdf. Without reading the whole thing in detail, it looks like you have a choice of 20 or 22 inch barrels and lots of caliber choices.
I have one in .223 and one in .243 and I like them a lot better than my primary hunting rifle, which is a Winchester 670 in .30-06 I happened to talk to a somewhat smaller than average woman who owns a T3 in .308 and she had no problem with recoil, if that helps any.
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8 months later…
37, 38.5 and 40.5 grain loads of IMR 4064 under Nosler 55 grain lead-free ballistic tips produce the best results. Velocities are roughly 300 FPS lower than test results on the Hogdon site but I loaded these at 2.65 (.06 shorter than Hogdon) and I'm using a shorter barrel (20 vs. 24). Next step is to play with the OAL a bit to see whether it makes any difference.
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I'm not dissing Tikkas generally because I own a pair and like them, but the A1 seems like a nice range toy, or perhaps the better term is, “eye candy”. At 2500 Euros, it's a bit like selling women handbags made by Coach that are prized for the brand rather than for their functionality. Sako is making a lot of money on what is essentially a bolt rifle with lots of decoration.
Then again I'm probably being way too practical ;D
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I'm afraid I got a little lost with the length of your post. I'm also no firearms expert but I'll take a stab at providing some feedback.
If you think the safety is questionable, whether it's supposed to be that way or not, then it's probably not safe.
I'm not aware that Tikkas are particularly finicky about the ammo they shoot. Mine do well enough with factory ammunition and I am now in the process of developing hand loads (if it ever stops snowing up here), but I use mine for hunting at no more than 300 yards so MOA accuracy is all I'm after. At least for right now.
My hunting partner was given a Kimber Mountain Ascent in .30-06 by his (also hunting partner) wife at Christmas, 2015. It behaved like a shotgun so he sent it back to the factory. Apparently some Kimbers do well out of the box and others do poorly, and the poor performers do not seem to be all that rare, though I could be wrong. I have not heard the same about Tikkas.
My preference right now is for Tikkas and if I ever decide to replace my Winchester 670 with another '06, I would consider a Tikka, but probably one of the heavier models instead of the two T3 Lites I currently own.
I read a lot for reviews before settling on my first Tikka and I selected it based on reputation knowing that every manufacturer produces a lemon on occasion. It just seems that Sako produces fewer lemons than some of its competitors, but there are plenty of other good rifles out there. My hunting partners are very partial to Remington 700s in .300 Win Mag.
