Member JackEllis490
MemberForum Replies Created
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I have two (.243 and .223) and would consider buying others (maybe a .308 someday) because I like the way they're priced and I like the way they shoot. Fan though I am, I still get a chuckle out of posts like this both here and on other forums. It seems like firearms are like fashion – once people get attached to a brand there's no tearing them away. Same with optics. I've become a Vortex fan because they provide the performance *I* need at a price I'm willing to pay.
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Not that I'm anything resembling an expert when it comes to firearms but I just can't figure out what purpose is served by the break-in procedure. I haven't “broken in” my T3 in .243 and I don't plan to “break in” the .223 that I'm picking up next week.
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Here's my $.02.
Get either the Leupold or one of the higher end Vortex scopes. I had an inexpensive Bushnell mounted on a .30-06 fail me while on an elk hunt. Had it not been for the fact that a very good, very generous long-time friend loaned me his .300 Win Mag, my hunt would have been over.
Maybe the Crossfire is up to the recoil of your rifle but having learned my lesson once, I'm not going to make it again. I'd put a Crossfire on something like a .223 or *maybe* a .243 but anything with more recoil than that gets a better scope. I have a Leupold VX-3 on my .06, a Vortex Diamondback 2-7×35 on my .243 and a Vortex Razor 4-16 for the .223 that I'm picking up the day after Christmas.
Look around for below-retail deals. I bought both of my Vortex rifle scopes and a Vortex spotting scope on Ebay. All were brand new and purchased at well below the street price.
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I have a T3 Lite in .243 and really like it. My hunting partners all have rifles of various makes in .300 WM and I've been thinking about getting one, but I don't want to deal with a muzzle break and I'd prefer to stick with a Tikka. Anyone know how the heavier Tikkas (Hunter models) in .243 compare with respect to felt recoil?
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You can spend a lot of money trying to shave 1/2 pound.
Personally, speaking as an aging hunter that has hunted a lot of deer, elk, and pronghorn over the years, I would focus on getting myself in top condition and not worry much about a few ounces of rifle. But then again, I realize this is not a fitness forum but a Tikka forum. The limbsaver recoil pad is real nice.As an aging hunter that has not hunted all that much, I would agree with all of your points. One other thing that might help is a good sling that doesn't slip as you walk. I have Ultimate Rifle http://specialtyoutdoorproducts.net/RifleSlings_Shotguns_Pinckney_MI.html slings on all of my rifles.
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My advice is probably worth less than you're paying for it, especially since my large game rifle is an older Winchester 670 in .30-06.
First, lighter gun = greater felt recoil. I have a T3 in .243 that is noticeably lighter than the .30-06 and it's fine, but I'm a bit wary of shooting a T3 in any .308 caliber.
Second, the T3X recoil pad is supposed to be better than the older T3 recoil pads. Have your son wear a shooting pad under his jacket and I think he'll be fine.
Third, I use Remington Core Lokt Express ammunition and it has worked very well for me. I think I'd use 180 grain ammunition in a .30-06 for elk unless the shooter is exceptionally good.
Fourth, from what I've read and been told (rather than what I know), I think your son's 7mm is the better choice for elk than his .243. I regard a .243 as a small deer/antelope/coyote gun. Elk have been taken with lots of different calibers but it is always better to be “over-gunned” rather than “under-gunned” as I learned while watching a good friend shoot a kudu in Africa with a .257 Roberts that we then had to find…in the dark.
Last thing. I prefer to get close. I'm very confident of my ability to hit the kill zone at 100 yards and less confident as the distance approaches 200. I'd rather let one that's beyond my comfort zone get away than have to chase it down (been there, done that once for me and once for a friend, long story).
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I'm going to test them again using a different target type and also experiment with other loads, but for all practical purposes any of them would work just fine for the distances and critters I plan on shooting.
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I was finally able to test my hand loads. These were shot in order of decreasing charge (39, then 38, then 37 grains). IMR 4064 powder, Nosler 55 grain lead-free ballistic tips. 39 grains of powder (grn) gave the best results but I think I'm going to change from home made to reactive targets because I seem to shoot better when I use the reactives. The weather has also warmed up a bit and I might need to allow more time between groups.
The rifle is sighted for Winchester 100 grain ammo and I didn't ant to mess with it which is why all of the POIs are as high as they are.
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There are situations where a safe is not a practical option, in which case the next best alternative is to make theft difficult enough and time-consuming enough that the thieves give up, starting with an inconspicuous locking cabinet and then using trigger locks and other devices to make theft nearly impossible without also destroying the firearm. I only have long guns and none of them are particularly valuable so my concern if they're stolen is having them misused.
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Looks like it might be the following week before powder and bullets arrive, so closer to the end of the month before I can try some recipes.
With 55 grain Winchester Varmint-X rounds, I shot a half inch group from a bench rest about two weeks ago. Now if I could only get those kinds of results with my (Winchester 670 in) .30-06 sigh! Yet another story for another time.
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I use an iPhone app called Ballistic to play with trajectories (also use Gundata.org's calculator). If I raise the 100 yard zero to +1.5 inches, I still get a pretty flat trajectory and 2.5″ drop at 300. That's where I'd probably set it for coyotes. For varmints, not quite so sure since I think it might depend on where I can set up.
I tend to favor short-range shots, especially for big game, because I'm not that experienced and I've been involved in chasing critters on 3 different occasions (two shot by others and one missed entirely by me, another story for another time. I'd rather let one go than risk a miss. The point of shooting small stuff is to get more practice under a variety of conditions. Also to help with predator control.
Hopefully I'll be able to do some testing by the end of next week.
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but I would stick with 4064 and wait for it
I am (twiddles thumbs for a week while waiting). >:(
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Thanks Dog (gee that sounds funny). Turns out IMR 4064 is in short supply, as are Federal primers. Only one place had the powder and it has to be shipped. It'll be at least a week before I can try out your recipe and then I'll report back.
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Howdy,
Same problem here with Privi .308…… Problem is the headspace distance is too long…
(Back of rim to shoulder)That was very helpful. In my case it looks like the headspace distance is too short. The spec is for .0551 according to a diagram I found on 6mmbr. For ammo that loads properly (bolt closes), the distance appears to be .058. On the one Prvi round I checked it's .053. I'm using (or maybe misusing) an old automotive spark plug feeler gauge but headspace distance on the PRVI rounds appears to be smaller than on the Hornaday or a snapcap that also feeds properly.
I'm going to cycle all the rounds through to see if any of them work. The vendor (not the mfgr) said he's seen this in firearms machined on the tight side of the tolerance and agreed to buy back what won't work.
I'm not sure out-of-spec rounds are confined to less expensive ammo. Someone on another forum reported a similar problem with Hornaday ammo.
Thanks a lot.
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I don't have any use for the rail but I'd be willing to take the magazine off your hands for $35 shipped if it'll work in a short action (.243) rifle.
