Member Asgen Karlson
MemberForum Replies Created
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The aluminum recoil lug is fairly easily damaged with heavy recoiling calibers. I'd suggest checking it for an inverted trapezoid and/or replacing it with a steel one to start. Make sure the action screws are torqued to the correct specs as well.
From what you've mentioned about it shooting great in the past is what leads me to suspect the lug, but it may also be a number of additional factors.
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To be honest, I think one of the major sellers at the Tikka Performance Center are the rails due to the fact that Tikka factory rails aren't really the greatest thing ever. Additionally, with the integrated pic rail recoil lug machined to slot right into the Optilock hole on top of your receiver, it really solids up the rifle.
Once you've gone with the a picatinny rail system, mounting options also explode.
It makes me wonder when Robert_P is going to come up with a kit on the site that adds the upgraded action screws to the whole package.
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You may also want to purchase an upgraded recoil lug. With the heavy recoil of that caliber the aluminum one will undoubtedly not last long.
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I developed a .30-06 load early last summer with 185gr Berger Juggernaut Tactical OTM and 61 grains of RL-22. The bearing surface is actually fairly low considering how heavy the bullet is, so it acts more like a Berger 155gr.
We were shooting down a 29″ pipe, so depending on what you have, velocities might be less than the 2900 with 61, or the 2998 with 62. We backed it down to 61 since the recoil was more annoying and 2900 is plenty fast.
As with any load, work up from lower charges. Enjoy!
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If I did that I wouldn't have had the pleasure of handcrafting something to work very well, knowing I'm the one that did it, and would have spent 30 times what it cost to make mine, before shipping.
I'll stick to the craft store and a skiving knife.
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I ended up putting a 20MOA rail from the Tikka Performance center on my T3 Lite and originally tried medium rings from Burris. Ended up returning them and just ordering a set of lows from Vortex to match the 6-24x50mm Viper HS. The Burris rings, while very sturdy and a pleasure to deal with, were just too high on top of the rail.
I still ended up working with some foam and a Blackhawk cheek pad to raise the comb up enough to be comfortable, but the lows make it a lot easier than needing a ladder to get a good sight picture while maintaining a good cheek weld.
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It's probably just going to be easier to just get a good heavy contour barrel from a reputable manufacturer new and fit it to your existing T3 action than to try and find a used one and then have it bored out.
I haven't heard of anyone cutting new rifling into an existing barrel for a larger caliber. Cost would probably be more or less the same as cutting rifling into a new barrel.
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I've heard really good things about the CTR in .260 Rem which is really close to a Creedmoor. Don't know if the factory barrels are enough for what you're looking to do, but anything with the same bolt face as a .30-06 should work, since that's what most of the cases were developed from.
Tikka likes simple. Just on the available models of this years Hunter there are 7 cartridges that use the same bolt face. Which probably means the same bolt. IIRC Tikka just puts a shorter bolt stop in for the shorter models.
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The farmers here in Eastern Washington appreciate not having a hog problem to deal with. If they did, there are a number of eager people who'd be more than happy to help 'manage' the bacon industry.
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I didn't even shoot my rifle until last weekend that I've had in various stages of assembly since October with parts from Mountain Tactical. I can tell you, the tubberware sits on top of the safe real pretty with it's little aluminum part just being shiny.
I've known too many people that work with aluminum a lot that tell me it doesn't like being stressed. So I waited and just went right to the (and I think it's one of the first) marine grade stainless lugs when my stock arrived. Never have to worry about the lug again.
Now if the wind would quit blowing so bad, maybe I can get a decent zero dialed in. Difficult to realistically tell how you're grouping when your target is moving back and forth in the 30mph gusts.
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Not that I've shot the 7mm-08, but if I had to choose and NOT exceed the .308 case, it'd be my choice. I just like 7mm more than the 6.5 you get from the 260 Rem or 6.5×55 despite hearing good things about all of them.
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They're not as stiff as they would be if it wasn't fluted. Each flute heats up at a different rate so during prolonged firing and barrel heating, the muzzle will move off of zero more than with a solid barrel.
They ARE lighter, and they look cool. For a cold bore shot they'll do just as well as a standard barrel.
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I know what you mean. I was just at the range trying to put a zero on my T3 light in .270 and just got it into the center diamonds about the time the range closed.
Pro Tip: Don't try to rely on a 'zero' you achieve while it's blowing 20 with gusts to 30. Your precision sighting in target sort of moves a little.
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Keep in mind that the 7mm-08 is a necked down .308 case to accept the 7mm bullet. Velocities will be appropriately slower, and nowhere near the speeds of the 7mm Rem Mag.
That said, recoil will also be appreciably less. Shouldn't have a problem on elk with proper shot placement.
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Something that light probably wouldn't give you too much issue with recoil. The factory lugs are aluminum, which over time may deform. Steel lugs are available and are fairly inexpensive. To change them out, iirc you just grab some pliers and pull the old one, then insert the new one in it's slot.
