If you are planning on switching your scope between rifles a Picitanny rail is a great option… if the rifle does not already have one.  Pretty much the first thing I've put on all my Tikka's.
Any rail option from the guys here is a solid choice.  EGW is another option.
DNZ makes a great 1 piece mount that a few of my buddies have.  Its works really well.

You will need a good set of rings if you go with a rail option, the 300wm or 300wsm T3's have a quite a bit of recoil, the scope takes a beating!  You don't want any movement. 
I went with Leupold PRW rings, but there are great options from Warne, Vortex, & Nightforce.
Depends on your budget, Lots of choices out there…

A better recoil pad will also make a huge difference, I like the Limbsaver but there are other options out there.

You may also want to purchase an upgraded recoil lug. With the heavy recoil of that caliber the aluminum one will undoubtedly not last long.

I have the exact same set up. Started out wight the factory tikka rings but the recoil was damaging them (after 60 rounds) so I got the pica tinny rail from MT and the luepold PRW rings and have been very satisfied.

I also upgraded the recoil lug and recoil pad. It helps but it's still a 300wm.

Also, I had to cut down the rail to allow me to move the scope back so my eye relief was where I needed it so you may want to go with the new receiver length rail if that's going to be a problem for you.

To be honest, I think one of the major sellers at the Tikka Performance Center are the rails due to the fact that Tikka factory rails aren't really the greatest thing ever. Additionally, with the integrated pic rail recoil lug machined to slot right into the Optilock hole on top of your receiver, it really solids up the rifle.

Once you've gone with the a picatinny rail system, mounting options also explode.

It makes me wonder when Robert_P is going to come up with a kit on the site that adds the upgraded action screws to the whole package.

🙂

Once Jason is back at 100%, we'll be installing & learning how to run the new CNC. We'll have a lot of catching up to do by then, but when we do catch up, I promise to add more options for the kits.

I have a vxl 50mm on my tikka and I run a low DnZ mount. It puts the scope right where it needs to be.

I have a vxl 50mm on my tikka and I run a low DnZ mount. It puts the scope right where it needs to be.

Nice looking gun…caliber?
Looks like the barrel was cut down…Length? 
How much space you have between the objective bell and the barrel?
Can't really tell from the photo.

It's a 35 whelen with 16in barrel…there's enough room to put a leupold scope cover on it And then maybe a little more. It has since been threaded for a suppressor.

Ive used the DNZ Gamereaper one piece mount for my T3. Im running a Zeiss Conquest HD5 3-15×42 and never had any issues, it's rock solid and super light.

Before I switched to Mountain Tactical (MT) Pic rails for all my Tikkas, I used DNZ Gamekeepers and loved them.  With the MT Gen II pic rails I use a DNZ Freedom Reaper one piece with my Vortex Viper PST and move the scope between my Tikka .223 sporter and 30-06 hunter. 

A tip for anyone that wants to move scopes between rifles that use the same bases:  Instead of setting a zero stop on your scope for a given rifle, set your turret at zero on the bottom of its travel.  Then record your 100 yard zero for each rifle you use the scope on.  In other words, treat your quality scope's turret like a micrometer.  One rifle zero might be 2.14 mills (or Minutes) and another 2.09 mills.  record this info and you can add the drop from your calculator and read the turret.  Thanks to Eric Cortina on You Tube for this tip,  he uses it for switch barrel rifles but the concept is the same.

I have DNZ's on all mine and my Daughters Tikkas.  At 50mm you might have to go with a medium mt. but call DNZ and they will advise you of the lowest mount and rings to get.  Limbsaver recoil pad is the way to go.

A 50mm vxL works great with a low dnz.

Both are great choices…if its a dedicated scope for that rifle only then DNZ is also the cheaper route.
I only invest in rails & rings due to the fact I change a couple scopes between rifles depending on hunting or target shooting.

Can't go wrong with either option in regards to quality of product.
Post a picture of the rifle when you decide.