[yukonal]

It would be an even swap, once you find the factory barrel. The barrel shanks are the same dimension.

You would probably have to open up the inlet on the stock a bit to accept the larger diameter barrel.

I had a custom action wrench made for all the barrel swapping I do. So I just clamp the barrels in a barrel vise, bolt the wrench to the action, and give it the old “heave ho”. The wrench has such a perfect fit, you can't put a piece of tape on the action. Tikka barrels have a reputation for being screwed in VERY tight.

[yukonal]

Just picked up a Tikka Super Varmint in 6.5×55

You're making a lot of guys drool around here. 😉

I can't remember if mine had rings or not?

If you want a set, and are in the USA, let me know, I'll mail you a set.

[yukonal]

I just ordered a CTR .308 it should be in next week. Also last nite worked up my first bullet loads I have 6 sets of 4 rds with different powder charges to try today.

How can you work up loads if you don't know the measurement of the bullet to lands relationship?

You don't know if you are into the lands, which would be unsafe, or .100″ off…which would more than likely give you horrible accuracy.

Get yourself a collet style puller, pull the bullets, (you can use your same powder charges if they are safe), measure your intended bullet/lands relationship, re-seat the bullets .010″ off the lands and work up your loads from there.

[yukonal]

That is really a cool build, and a dog killer.

If you don't like the shiny barrel, I have dulled them up a bit with Scotch Brite pads, or the equivalent. Rub the length of the barrel, not around it (or it'll just polish it more).

With a hammer like that, you could've saved your money on the bottom metal, and kept factory. You won't be needing more than one shot! ;D

Thanks for posting.

[yukonal]

Those two calibers have different bolt faces, thus requiring 2 different actions, or donor rifles.

Do you already have an existing rifle you want to re-barrel, or are you planning on buying a donor…THEN re-barreling?

Where are you at, and are you also aware of shipping costs both ways?

Cut, chamber, crown is about $250.

[yukonal]

I have both the CDI ratchet torque wrench, and the CDI screwdriver type torque wrench for rings, bases, and lighter applications. I use them on a weekly basis, and have never looked back.

When I first bought a Fat Wrench, I opened the package, looked at it, packaged it back up and sold it. Nothing against it, just not for me. 😉

[yukonal]

bye the way, what torque wrench do you use? Im using the Wheeler FAT wrench now but want to upgrade.

Take a look at the Sinclair International catalog, and I bet you'll make the right choice.

Buy once, cry once.

[yukonal]

We trim caseses because they grow in length each time we resize them to a narrower diameter.

Consistent bullet release might have something to do with it, also.

[yukonal]

Nickel plated brass is hard on dies.

[yukonal]

To the best of my knowledge, just bead blasted.

[yukonal]

It IS an upgrade, and over time it will make a difference.

[yukonal]

…And did you hear a…crack…from the bottom “metal” when you cranked it that tight?

I've said it before, and I'll say it again:

35 inch pounds on wood Hunter and Lam stocks
45 inch pounds on factory synthetic stocks

Snug the front screw first, then the rear.
Then torque the front screw, then torque the rear.
Then re-torque them.

[yukonal]

(Also, action is torqued to 51 in/lbs )

That's too much.

[yukonal]

What is the risk in removing those nubs?

Never hurt anything in all the ones I removed.

[yukonal]

Are you talking about a recoil “lug”?