Found the answer on another forum.

Tikka barrel has a 25mm shank with 1.5mm thread pitch.

North American `smiths have found that a 1 inch shank with 16 pitch threading also works.

1 inch = 25.4mm
1/16 = .0625 inch; 1.5mm = .0590 inch

So looks like the conversion from metric  to inches is close enough for a lathe without metric indexing.

Can't you measure the muzzle diameter on your rifle?

Why do you want  a front sight on your T3? Just curious.

Just wondering what the 'issues' were with the SS barrels that you refer to. My T3 has the same finish as yours but I don't know when it was manufactured.

Thanks for the info.

That looks like an adjustable cheekpiece to me???
Another difference on the super varmint maybe the forend piece added on to make it wider.

Another version of DIY using Sinclair die lock rings for weights on a 5/8ths flare fitting.
Haven't tried this one yet but as stated in an article on tuners, any tuner might be better than no tuner at all.

This link might help answer the question.
http://forum.accurateshooter.com/index.php?topic=3794023.msg36110604#msg36110604

You can DIY with plumbing fittings and it works great. 

On my T3 varmint rifle the trigger weight is 12 oz. with no trigger spring at all.
It seems like the geometry of the trigger parts with the pressure from the main spring requires 12 oz. to trip it.
This was just an experiment. I found a lighter spring to put in and the trigger weight stayed at 12 oz.
Sweet it is!

Don't forget to try a tuner. A tuner can take a .325 group down to .125 at 100 yds.

Sounds good.
Just wondering if you have made any trigger adjustments and what you think of the trigger.
Hope you enjoy the Tikka.

Looks like the one that worked the night shift 🙂

Beautiful gun and good pictures!

Linkie no workie.

I understand replacing the plastic but why the bolt?

Sounds like you are having fun. Am looking forward to following your project.

My T3 is exactly like the picture. The cap on my stock looks like it is snapped in place. It moved slightly when pryed with a stiff knife but it seems to be very snug. It is a good bet that Tikka made sure the cap would not come off too easily. You might be able to get a look from the inside of the stock by removing the butt plate and inserting a… Read more

It looks like you might be in uncharted territory. My experience with other guns is that it would be glued on but a good picture of the cap for us to see would be a big help in helping you.

I load fresh Lapua brass without sizing first. I will run an expander through the necks if they are out of round.

I am very satisfied with my EGW picatinny rail.

Very very nice. Could we have some of the details?
Did it all yourself?

Seems like only Tikka would know what they mean to say by what they write in their advertising. In my books free floating means no stock contact with the barrel anywhere (except for a short continuation of the bedding). There has been some discussion on other forums about some models of Tikkas having pressure points and whether these are by design… Read more

Al, Thanks for the reply. My Super Varmint in 222R is the same with respect to getting better with age.

I stand corrected. Thanks Ranger. My erroneous post was flushed. My apologies.

The parts list in the back of my Tikka owners manual shows two lengths for the bolt stop, a short and a long.

Al,

What caliber and twist is your Super Varmint?  Have you been shooting it much ?  Care to update your review?

Mike

Considering the gun you are loading for, I suggest that you use the same seating depth as factory ammo. Your ammo has to fit in the magazine which might rule out seating out to the lands anyway. How well your ammo feeds from the magazine and how well it chambers is the first concern.
In your case I think that choice of bullet, powder and powder… Read more

T3 super varmint in a Robertson JTR stock.
Too bad Robertson Composites stocks are temporarily unavailable.