[mitch184]

As far as bedding the entire stock, with the factory lug, in one step…well, best of luck. The area between the top of the lug and the slot in the action, fill up with mud before the front of the barrel and the tang hit their elevations. Then you don't have contact with the top of the lug and the slot. That's why I bed a factory lug stock/action in 3 steps.

And by 3 steps you're talking about the pillars, then the recoil lug, then the rest of the action?

[mitch184]

Matchman/Yukonal,

What's the reasoning behind not wanting a tight fit between the action and the recoil lug and using the existing slot/thickness recoil lug?  At first I figured I stumbled across a great idea, but after seeing that not many people used a thicker recoil lug I figured there was a reason.  Just not sure what it is?

I'd go with another stock, but the factory stock actually fits me pretty well.  And for a lightweight plastic stock, glass reinforced Polypropylene is about as good as your going to get.  I'm actually going to layup some small carbon fiber stringers and bed them into the forward section of the stock.

[mitch184]

For my 300 winmag, I had to cut the square patches down to about 1 1/2 – 1 5/8″ squares, then they work good.

I generally use the smaller patches on the first pass to really soak the barrel, the slightly larger on the last couple dry patches.

[mitch184]

So I took the firing pin assembly out of the bolt.  Cleaned everything and the bolt is quite a bit smoother now.  However, now I'm wondering if its worth it to completely disassemble the pin, spring, etc and polish that firing pin.  I saw a video on that.

Has anyone taken the firing spring off or have instructions?  Looks like a simple c-clips that holds the spring retainer.

[mitch184]

So T3 Lite blued barrel synthetic stock in a 300 Win Mag………  Bed the entire action, make my forward dam at the beginning of the taper nearest the action.  Free float the barrel from the dam forward.  My only thought for bedding into the tapered section is that I would have some good geometry (tapered section to action) to seat everything, but I guess the recoil lug will take care of that front to rear alignment.

I think I'm going to bed the pillars in one step, then bed the recoil lug, then the action.  Probably relieve the entire tang section except leave a very small ledge to make sure the height is still good.  I just wasn't quite sure if these longer lite barrels would need the extra support from bedding.

Thanks

[mitch184]

Follow up on this, without starting a new thread, are you free floating all the way up to the action itself, or just where the barrel starts to taper out to a large diameter?

Likewise, if you're doing a full bed job on the action, do you bed all the way out to the muzzle end of the tapered section.  OR stop with just the actual action at the action end of the taper?

[mitch184]

I still have the factory plastic shroud.  I give it a quick lookover and it didn't look cracked, but I was thinking about throwing on the Aluminum shroud for piece of mind.

It seems really strange to me that the bolt rotates when it's dry fired.  Its fairly noticeable and now I can actually feel it rotate when its dry fired.  I haven't actually shot the gun lately, but I was doubting that makes a difference.  Could it?