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If you are planning on switching your scope between rifles a Picitanny rail is a great option… if the rifle does not already have one.  Pretty much the first thing I've put on all my Tikka's.
Any rail option from the guys here is a solid choice.  EGW is another option.
DNZ makes a great 1 piece mount that a few of my buddies have.  Its works really well.

You will need a good set of rings if you go with a rail option, the 300wm or 300wsm T3's have a quite a bit of recoil, the scope takes a beating!  You don't want any movement. 
I went with Leupold PRW rings, but there are great options from Warne, Vortex, & Nightforce.
Depends on your budget, Lots of choices out there…

A better recoil pad will also make a huge difference, I like the Limbsaver but there are other options out there.

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I know….I was way to quick to buy! Wasn't a smart decision.

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Wow…this chassis is a work of art!  What sort of wait time are we looking at once the order is placed?

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I had a similar experience about 6 months ago.  Bought a B&C stock from a distributer in Alberta and was very disappointed when the stock arrived.  The inletting was terrible, and looked like it was cut with a chisel versus a CNC machine.  I tried returning it, but that was a no go…then I tried talking directly to B&C and they basically told me no stock is perfect and it required some fitting. 

To make a long story short…I have to do a lot of work on the stock and it needs to have a full bedding job to salvage it.  Its to bad because some people seem to get a good stock and its a straight drop in but I wasn't that lucky.

I wish I would have waited and saved for a Manners or a McMillan….

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Here ya go…

Just so you know the rail on the 300wsm Lite is a 20moa rail…hopefully this gives you a good idea of how the 20moa and 0moa rails look with a 30mm tube / 50mm objective.

The rail on the Varmint is cut to receiver length.  I didn't care for how it hung out over the barrel so I cut and shaped the front with a round profile to match the receiver.  Its a aluminum so a little matte black paint and you would think it factory.  I'll be doing this with the 300wsm rail as well when i have a chance.
I prefer the look and length of the Tac and Super Varmint factory rails.

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Looks good!  How much?

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You should be fine…

I have the Vortex Viper HSLR 6-24 x 50mm (30mm tube) FFP in Leupold PRW Med rings = .097″… mounted to the exact same rail and it fits perfect.  You should have about 1/8″ – 1/4″ clearance from the barrel to the front objective bell with the rings you mentioned depending on forward or back location, you have room to adjust before the bottom taper on the scope contacts the rail if you need to bring the scope back toward you.

I'll take a picture of my setup tonight and post a picture so you have a good reference.  The Vortex and the Sightron S3 should be very similar in size.

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Can anyone tell me if there is any draw back to a fluted barrel?

Just don't know of any draw backs for long term barrel performance.

Geez you guys are making a mountain out of a molehill. Dog, since you are having a hard time grasping the question he is asking, I quoted him for you. He isn't asking if YOU would want one…or what YOUR only reason for buying one would be. No reason to be rude to Eric, he's just trying to help…just like you are.

To the OP…drawbacks-no.

Long term barrel performance drawbacks-no.

First off my apologizes to the OP for this simple topic going sideways…this is my last post on this topic.

I think people need to actually read a full post before they comment…
Yukonal…Did you read the information I posted? And by the way, fluting can cause ill effects to a barrel and some will show dramatic long term effects…Not all but some. Shoot equal rounds through a fluted barrel and the same non fluted barrel at the range and you will be surprised what you see when they start getting warm. One will perform a lot better…test it and report if you ever have the opportunity to try it.
Why do you think a company like Accuracy International no longer flutes their barrels…

I think I and other people have provided information the OP was looking for…There are issues with fluted barrels and there are in some causes long term effects with fluted barrels.  My biggest problem with this forum is there is way too much info posted from theory and not from actual time behind the guns and experience in the field.

As I stated above, the OP's question was answered perfectly in the very first post by Asgen Karlson …and I then followed up with more information on drawbacks on performance and effects on fluted barrels  with information directly from Shilen, a credited barrel manufacturer…this was my grasp on the OP's questions, post information on long term barrel performance.  Me stating how I liked them and if I would buy was just an opinion and conversation.

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Ok there seems to be some confusion here regarding fluting.  I will try to present the facts using hypothetical barrels.  A bull barrel of one inch in diameter has virtually the same stiffness as the same barrel fluted.  Two barrels of the same weight, one Sporter and one fluted leads us to the following: the fluted one is far stiffer than the Sporter.  The equal Sporter and fluted will heat at the same rate, but the fluted will cool faster due to the greater surface area.
If stiffness is defined by resistance to flex for a given barrel weight, then fluted is far more resistant to flex per pound and Asgen and Dog are missing the mark.  If you are defining it by diameter of barrel, um miss again.
I don't claim to be right I just like to be proved “not wrong”.
While I don't like to be wrong, I will always acknowledge my failings, so if I got this wrong tell me.

Shilen is not teqnically wrong regarding the above quote, but they are wrong in a practical sense I think.  The difference between their hypothetical barrels is nothing measururable.  Bye the way, the idea that stresses are induced by fluting is not documented and could be relieved by cryogenic treatment, also the claim of bore variation is spurious and not documented by any research I know of. I guess I'm saying Shilen is saying things that are not …true or proved.

Great barrels, use em just don't believe their talk without evidence.

LOL…this as been debated so many times before on other forums, was wondering when it would start here and when the Physicist would come out…

Ericbc7…We are not confused or missing the mark, why you gotta go there because we have a difference of opinion, sometimes you honestly make no sense with your rambling…This is not the first time you have misread and contradicted a post while missing the point, you must be killing google with your data searches…its ok to be wrong sometimes.

My response is to the OP asking about drawbacks to “a” fluted barrel.  We are talking about comparing “a” barrel, the same barrel, with or without fluting.  Not comparing various barrels of different weight and dia, and contour. Of course there are differences if you start talking about various diameters and weight.  BUT that wasn't the the question or topic…I have to challenge you here though…

“A bull barrel of one inch in diameter has virtually the same stiffness as the same barrel fluted”…This is incorrect, and depth of fluting plays a big role here…and if its “virtually” the same, what is the advantage other then aesthetics?
its a proven fact, when you remove material from “A” barrel when fluting…it will be weaker and flex more, with all things being equal at the start using 2 identical barrels before and after fluting.  Weight savings is the only advantage.  Show me other wise and I'm a converted believer.

This link explains it the best in its simplest form…http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fluting_(firearms)

To the OP….don't mean to start a debate, this topic as been beat to death already.
I love fluted barrels, but my only reason for buying one would be for weight savings or looks.
And honestly the weight savings is nothing if you carry a pack. Those few ounces you save will be taken up with something else for sure.  So main reason would be looks!

A good debate is Helical versus Straight fluting!!!  That would be a good topic, a lot of good opinions on that one I'm sure.

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If I was in the market for a new rifle and had my choice….
It would be the 260 Rem OR a 6.5×55 SE “Varmint” model.

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Asgen Karlson…is 100% correct, it is more a trend for a cool factor versus any real practical use.
And its a big misconception that fluted barrels are stiffer…you actually reduce the rigidity of the same barrel when you flute it.  Weight savings is the only positive thing achieved, and really only practical on a carry rifle.

I really like the look of a fluted barrel and will probably buy one at some point, I love the look of the barrels on the new Tikka SuperLite series!!!  But would not flute any rifle barrel I currently have to gain any shooting advantages.

Directly from Shilen Rifle Inc…

Q: What about “fluting” a barrel?

“Fluting is a service we neither offer nor recommend. If you have a Shilen barrel fluted, the warranty is void. Fluting a barrel can induce unrecoverable stresses that will encourage warping when heated and can also swell the bore dimensions, causing loose spots in the bore. A solid (un-fluted) barrel is more rigid than a fluted barrel of equal diameter. A fluted barrel is more rigid than a solid barrel of equal weight. All rifle barrels flex when fired. Accuracy requires that they simply flex the same and return the same each time they are fired, hence the requirement for a pillar bedded action and free floating barrel. The unrecoverable stresses that fluting can induce will cause the barrel to flex differently or not return from the flexing without cooling down a major amount. This is usually longer than a shooter has to wait for the next shot. The claim of the flutes helping to wick heat away faster is true, but the benefit of the flutes is not recognizable in this regard until the barrel is already too hot”.

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The fact that you are putting “multiple” bullets in the same hole at 100yrds and able to get repeating groups leads me to think its more ammo related and nothing to do with form. Putting 3 shots in 1 hole and 2 shots in another less than 1/2″ away is pretty dam good… If your form or trigger pull was bad it would be more random and more spread out patterns, not multiple bullets going through the same hole.

You are right at the edge of an accuracy node that a slight change to powder charge or even seating depth would turn your repeatable pattern into small 1 hole clovers.  Too bad you don't have a press to pull the bullets and play with the setting depth on the factory ammo, that has worked for me in the past.

Try some 155gr Nosler or hornady match through the gun and report back.

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I've never seen an inletting job on these stocks where the gunsmith had to cut “all” the aluminum away on both sides of the channel…basically cutting the full length bedding block in half.
Can't see this being a good thing considering the full length bedding block was designed into the stock for stability.  Call B&C and confirm if they recommend this…its screams NO to me.

Can you twist and bend the stock after the inletting?

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ShtrRdy,  makes all good points.  Parallax has challenged me on occasion at the range.

Here's an example of horizontal stringing regarding powder charge…with 44.8grs of Varget my groups would
spread out to 1-1.5″ horizontally @ 100yrds, but vertical would stay @ 1/4-1/2″. The powder charge produced this pattern consistently on numerous groups.  I upped the charge to 45.1grs and it tightened up…shot this 10rd group all within the same 3/4″ ragged hole with my CTR.  No change to COAL, .3grs made the difference. 

My point…no matter what you do as a shooter, even if you have perfect form,…your rifle may only shoot the factory ammo you tested so good. You might be doing nothing wrong. The group you shot may be the best it gets.  Thats why I turned to hand loading…

Check the results of this OCW test showing groups…
Accuracy node @ 44.5grs shows some horizontal stringing, 44.7 tightens up, and better yet at 44.8…
Accuracy node @ 45.4grs shows same horizontal stringing, 45.6 tightens up, and 45.7 is beautiful for 100yrd paper punching.

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Whenever I get a group like this its usually powder charge related.  You might be just slightly missing the perfect recipe for the accuracy node with this factory ammo,  .2grs plus or minus may tighten the group right up…No change to setting depth.  That's the problem with factory, what might be perfect in 1 rifle may not work in another.

BUT…I also see almost identical results when I'm shooting a perfect hand load that usually produces 1 hole or all touching groups…but opens up over a “broad” temperature range.  Meaning on a warmer to hot day during range test / load development its a 1/4moa load,  and on a cool fall or winter day it opens up to 1/2-3/4moa,… All corrected by upping or decreasing powder charge slightly to accommodate the temp change, even when using temp stable powders.  If you shoot the same ammo you tested above during a big temperature swing you may have better groups, but can't say if it will be better in hotter or colder weather.

It's not a bad group with factory ammo! Looks to be just over 1/2moa (minus the top flyer)…if that load holds during various temp changes then you have a good go to for sure.