[Dan68]

CTR ? that is just a varmint isn't it?

[Dan68]

side note…I wouldn't take a chance of twisting a T3 action using an inside action wrench, in fact, I wonder if you already haven't! I do, however, use an inside action wrench to re-torque my barrels after I have taken them off, and need to put them back on. Using a torque wrench on the back end is very repeatable.

Not so much twisting but I agree there is a risk of bending the action if you were rough and were not paying attention to what you were doing, by the rear of the wrench not being kept central and pushing against the rear of the action.
I was aware of this and did pay attention 😉

[Dan68]

I have removed 4 so far using a barrel vise and an internal action wrench , yeah they were pretty tight but with the right tools I wouldn't say it was a big deal, definitely no heat used and they had no thread locker on them.

[Dan68]

Here's what I would do in this order if I was a TIKKA newbie:

#1 – Float the barrel – DIY cost nothing to do…
#2 – Install a rail (Mountain tactical) or 1 piece scope mount (DNZ is the cheapest and best 1 piece).
#3 – Install a heavier bolt handle
#4 – Install a metal bolt shroud
#5 – Install a metal trigger guard / buttom

Then proceed to a new stock or chassis if you have the budget.  This is where you can get pretty crazy with funds.

Personal choice but in my opinion,
#1 may help
#3 larger, not necessarily heavier bolt handle will be a bonus
#2,#4,#5 mostly cosmetic and wont make it shoot or work any better. 😉

[Dan68]

It must be just the power of the ejector plunger bashing the case mouth against the inside of the action as it clears the chamber, what brand of brass is it, does it do it with different brands? May be just softer than usual brass, but either way I would not be worried about it , your reloading dies will correct it anyway.

[Dan68]

Right, the CTR relief channel in the bottom the action allows clearance of the seated mag. In the regular T3 lite action, the TRG mag hits the action and it can't latch. The idea to put a washer on the action screw under the DBM might work to give the needed clearance, and it shouldn't affect the mating of the action with the lug.

Yeah thats what I suspected and yeah the washer/spacer won't affect anything else. The next problem may be that the mag will sit to low for the bolt to pick up a round, if this is the case then it is onto the milling machine with the action.
I did this to a T3 to accept a Roedale DBM and also had to do it to a win mod 70 to accept a CDI DBM.

[Dan68]

Can you see what is stopping the mag going in or how far off the mag catch it is? I have a few aftermarket DBMs in my T3's and often just putting a 1/4″flat washer under the DBM on the front action screw is enough to let the mag click in and still feed perfectly.
I have not looked at a ctr but maybe the double stack mag is a tad wider and the action has been opened out to suit ??

[Dan68]

If the smiths lathe has a large enough spindle bore then the muzzle can be threaded with the action on, I have removed a couple of T3 barrels using a barrel vice and action wrench and didn't find it difficult so if your smith has to do it it shouldnt be a big deal/cost.

[Dan68]

Obviously not on a 30.06 but I bought a 7mm rem mag and re barreled it to 375.300 win mag, easily equals 375 H&H ballistics , good for big critters, I use it on water buffalo, camels and scrub bulls here in Australia 🙂